Basement Bathroom Addition

This is my first post, so Hello. I am a homeowner from Canada, and have been lurking around this forum for about 4 months. I have gained some information, and I am ready to finally add a bathroom in the basement. I do however have a few questions, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

My basement has a rough in for all shower, toilet and sink. I have figured the toilet and sink part out, however some aspects of the shower puzzle me.

I am a fairly handy guy, so let me know if you think any of the work in over my head.

1- For the shower, the rough in is buried under the concrete, and i have to move it 5" to a side. I was going to use a mason blade with a circular saw to score the lines (go maybe 2.5" deep), and a hammer drill to dig it up. Is there a better way than this? I am not so worried about the dust because it is a new construction, so there is nothing around to really get dirty. Finally, I was going to use a self-levelling compound of some sort, to finish off the concrete.

2- Is there a p-trap generally buried with the rough in for the shower, or would i have to put a new one in?

3- I assume to easiest way to connect the shower would be to run the pipe at a 90 degree angle from the current rough in, 5" to the left, and 90 degree vertical up 2 - 3" above ground?

4- Is the rough in pipe vented? or do i need to worry about that?

I know some of these questions are quite basic, but I wanted to make sure in any case, since there is a lot of plumbing knowledge on this forum.

Thank you very much.

You will be there a month and a day if you score 2.5" deep and use a hammer drill.

Properly poured concrete floors are 4" thick. Just rent a jack hammer and you can have it all done in 1 hour or less.

Most rough ins don't have a trap Once you open up the floor you will then be able to see what needs to be done to install the trap.

If everything was roughed in correctly you should have a vent.

IMHO, a jackhammer is overkill. Rent an SDSMax rotary hammer. It doubles as a hammerdrill on steroids and can chip at the flip of a switch.

Drill holes around the perimeter of the area to be chipped, and then connect the dots in chip mode. You'll be done in 20 mins.

I think it was Cass who told me how to do this originally, and it worked like a charm. Almost dustless.

Don't underestimate the dust created with a circ saw. That dust will float up to the rest of your house in no time. Very nasty stuff.

Also, don't overestimate how powerful a masonry blade is on a poured foundation floor.

Rotohammer is the way to go.

Thanks for the replies. I went to Home Depot today and rented a Bosh Rotary Hammer with a few bits, along with chisel bits. Should attack the job tommorow.
I also need to T- off some more hot and cold water lines to accomodate for the bathroom (3 hot, 4 cold). Whoever did the original plumbing did not leave any extra supply lines.
Now the pipes are copper, so i will T off and add another manifold. Only concern i have is that i will have to use a torch to solder the T, and the main manifold is in close proximity to the hot water tank and the gas line running to it.
How concerned should I be about this? Is there an alternative?

Tell me if you guys think this plan would work? I solder a T on to each Hot and Cold copper pipe. Attach a pex pipe (3/4") via crimping (using all proper attachments), run it to the bathroom, attach in to another manifold, then run 1/2" pex pipes to supply the bathroom, toilet and vanity?

Thanks for any inputs.

If you're really concerned with melting the pex side, can you use threaded adapters?

yes that what i used, worked out great.

I would recommend any novice who is ever thinking about soldering copper pipes to purchase fitting that already have the solder built in, so you dont have to hang on to the line of solder as you heat the fitting.

Makes for a significantly cleaner and succesful connection.

I just wished they had used PEX pipe for the entire house, from the reading I have been doing, not only are they easier to install, they hold up better as compared to traditional copper pipes.

Just my .02 cents