View Full Version : Drywall finishing on steel studs
12-03-2006, 07:35 AM
I just recently framed a basement and am now working on the electrical. I'm concerned with the distance the new work box protrudes from the front stud face. I will need to hang the wall over the tab. Will the protrusion (~1/8" with screws) make it more difficult to finish? Am I using the wrong box? Thanks.
If you are setting the box according to its "tabs" it will project the normal 1/2" so it will be flush with the drywall surface. We would have to have a picture to see if you have the "right" box, (although it would be difficult to have the wrong one), or not installing it properly.
12-03-2006, 01:13 PM
Depending on the type of box... I don't think you have to worry about the box pushing out the drywall if the box attaches to the side of the stud. If it has tabs that go over the face of the stud you might have to screw to the face of the stud... just be sure to use as flat of a head screw as you can and seat it really good. It should not be noticible if the drywall has a slight bulge ... but a whopper sized bulge is going to really be funky. Just check it out with a straight edge such as a 4' level once you get the drywall in place and don't wait until it is painted to decide you screwed up.
12-03-2006, 04:08 PM
Thanks randyj. I appreciate your insight (you also offered advice on my utility sink addition). Sounds like you have a lot of experience and it's nice that you take the time out to post that experience for us DIYers... It's helpful.
12-03-2006, 07:39 PM
I ain't always right... but I've screwed up enough to share some of my experiences.
12-04-2006, 07:29 AM
i use regular nail on boxes but swap out the nails for fine threaded screws. that way no bump out on the rock. nothing worse than spackling around a bunch of boxes with damaged rock.
12-04-2006, 07:40 AM
I have yet to use metal studs. If you are really having a problem with this issue you might try using the plastic "old work" boxes. Once I discovered them I thought they were the greatest thing ever. You can put them virtually anywhere and not worry about bumps. Only thing critical about them is cutting the hole right... not only that...they can be put in after the drywall is installed as long as you have access to the wire or can pull a wire thru the hole. Just an option or suggestion.
12-04-2006, 08:55 AM
i do maybe 1/2 of my basements with metal studs. they are light, straight and dont wick water. i guess its just something different. the price has really gone up. the thicker guage are more expensive than lumber! i remember when metal was 1/2 the price of wood.
but then you need the greenlee hydraulic to knockout holes for plumbing and the hand crimp knockout tool for electric.
old work boxes are good for vanity lights in a bath remodel when your not sure exactly where they will go with a med cabinet. but dont believe they would pass rough inspection here in jersey when used as switch and outlet boxes..
12-04-2006, 05:01 PM
Do most of my in-wall plumbing (commercial) in light - med gauge metal studs...
Standard pipe-tyte style 1-11/32" stud punch works for all plumbing holes - no need to use hydraulic punches - just multiple overlaping holes for larger pipes (over 1" copper and 1-1/2 - 3" PVC and cast iron) then trim with snips...
A lot quicker than wood...
12-05-2006, 11:25 AM
mark, good tip on the punch. won't forget that!