Replaceing flange on lead bend

I have lead pipe running to a flange which has split all the way around. I have to raise the flange as well to meet the new floor going in. What's the best way to go about this? The lead pipe ends just left of what you can see in the picture into a cast pipe.
I was thinking of cutting the lead pipe about 4in short of where it went into the case pipe or even cutting it where it comes straight down. Then using a fernco connector to go to PVC.

What you plan is right. There should be a brass ferrule at the point that it enters the stack. Leave the brass and attach the banded coupling to it. Don't use a rubber fernco with the 2 hose clamps. Get the one with smooth stainless band that goes all the way around the coupling. The brass ferrule will / may be covered with lead and look like the rest of the lead pipe.

Thank you for the advice.

One more problem now. The brass piece of the pipe is resting right ontop of this heating pipe. I need to gain what about 1/2in of clearance for the coupling? Lowering the smaller (heating) pipe is a big job. Raising the other would be a matter of replacing the entire cast pipe. My only other option would be to try and pick the drain pipe up to shove the coupler in.

How hard would it be to get that brass piece out and put PVC right into the cast?
Could I go to this connection further down and replace from PVC from there on down?

You can snap the cast anywhere you want and attatch a banded coupling to it and run PVC to the flange. If it were me I would cut the CI about 6-8" from the stack T and run the plastic from there.

If all that line picks up is the toilet, you can pick a hub and remove the old pipe up to it, then install a reducing rubber gasket (ty-seal) 4 to 3 inch, then a 3" pvc soil adapter, then 3" pipe. That way you have clearance over the top of that other pipe.

do it the easy way

you have a foot ball field to work with....

if it were me, I wouild just cut that puppy

way back somewhere out there in the open with a cast cutter

then put a 4x3 fernco reducer on it and take it up in three inch...

and its very clear sailing....


Now, would you please explain to this dumbass (me)

how you are capable of pasteing those pictures directly to

this page??? for the life of me I cant figure it out

please do it slowly....step by step
r

I ended up being able to drop the pipe enough to get the coupler in there. So I cut the lead bend off, put the coupler on, went to 4in PVC (already had 4in PVC so I wasn't going to go buy 3in), a 90 degree elbow, then ran it up the the flange.

Why did they stop using lead bends? It seems that lead would be much easier to work with then PVC as far as getting everything into position goes. The lead can't hurt anything there, if the metal from your toilet drain is contaminating your drinking water the lead wouldn't be what I was worried about..