View Full Version : shower drain flange replacement-help
arrow
10-25-2006, 01:33 PM
I found tons of water leak to my crawl space. After a quick test I found that the water came through the shower flange. I found that there were a gasket (about 7-9 mm thick) to fill out the gab between the 2" pipe and the drain flange. I'm not sure what is the best that I can do. I visited HD to get an advice and bought a new drain flange which has a threaded rubber inside. HD do not carry a gasket for this case.
My questions are
1) Is it OK to use a gasket to fill the gab to seal? After pushing the gasket in the gab, should I cauk the side? I could not found that kind of type fo shower stall in website. I'm not sure if I can find that one. Unscrew the flange from crawl space would not be easy as well.
2) Thie pipe is not in center exactly. It is a little bit tilted to one end. I can make it center by pushing hard. No matter what I use to seal it, I think this may make the seal not complete. I'm not sure the new flange with threaded rubber of a gasket is also good in this kind of a little bit tilted pipe.
Thanks for your advice in advance.
jadnashua
10-25-2006, 04:17 PM
Is this a fiberglass or some other plastic shower pan? There are various types of drains that might be able to be used. Some of them use a rubber sleeve and a press fit, there's no glued or threaded connection between the drain and the pipe.
Can you post a picture? It would make it easier to help.
plumber1
10-25-2006, 07:07 PM
Different rubber seals are made for copper, pvc and galv drain stubs. They are a very tight fit and require to be seated with a corking iron or a cold chisel.
Once you get the seal started it will center the drain pipe.........
arrow
10-25-2006, 10:49 PM
yes. It is not glued nor thread. There is only one ring(sleeve) around the pipe. I wonder how it works only with the sleeve. Is it possible that the installer forgot something or cauking around the sleeve worn out?
If it were me I would buy a new shower drain and install everything new.
jadnashua
10-26-2006, 10:39 AM
Nope, on many of the type you have, it is only a compression fit with the rubber around the drain pipe riser. It is a bear to get a new one in without slicing it, but it can be done. You might try to lubricate it with dishsoap to make it easier to push in there with maybe say a screwdriver. They do make special tools to this, but if you are careful, and can find the replacement, you can reinstall a new one. If you have access from below, you could put a new drain in, too.
arrow
10-26-2006, 11:20 AM
Thanks. The pipe is a little bit titled to one end. Should I fix it first before I install a new one or push a gasket round the pipe? I can push the pipe hard to be in center so I can install something but it goes back to its position. I worry that it will squeez the sealing one side harder than the other causing leak.
plumber1
10-26-2006, 12:06 PM
Try to get under and support the trap. Otherwise I would just get the rubber seal started and drive it in.
arrow
10-30-2006, 07:25 PM
I'm back. I just got a quote to replace the stall at about $300. He said the pipe has to be cut. I guess it is right since there is no way to get the big nut out unless the pipe is cut. But $300. I'll try by myself first WITH your help. My P-trap in on a wood rail(?). It is hard to re-positioned to be in center. And I have to cut. Do I have to cut right after the P and glue it?
I'm doing web searching now. Please help me out.
Thanks.