Kohler Rochelle K3385-EB Ballcock Replacement and Repair

[LesMan]

I have (6) Kohler Rochelle toilets in my house... and I'm wondering if they might be the source of the groaning, moaning, vibrating noise that occasionally occurs at random times.

I'm curious to know if there are any "NEW TECHNOLOGY OEM REPLACEMENTS" for the Ballcock assembly that is inside the tank. This one currently uses the float ball on a long rod / arm.

I've attached a picture of the current assembly. I'm wondering where I might find either an OEM Replacement, or a newer style that might be more reliable??

Thanks in advance,

[LesMan]

If such a thing exists... would it be more prudent to just rebuilt the existing unit with new gaskets, washers, seals and valves?

Is there a KIT available?

Thanks again.

[blogtim]

You can get it from a plumber or Kohler, it is part 30668. Don't throw away the old parts - they are actually worth something. I for one am willing to pay for the lift wire, my sister threw away the old one and the new one has too light of a gauge. Ack!

[scripto]

My mother has a Kohler toilet which I am looking for replacment parts for. My problem is I cannot locate this model online, and have no clue what the model number is. I have attached several pictures to help identify this model. Anyone's assistance is appreciated.

[Terry]

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=895

It may be this part.
You can get it from a plumber or Kohler, it is part K-30668.

http://www.e-onlineplumbingparts.com/k3385%20rochelle.htm


Attached Imageshttp://www.terrylove.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=93&stc=1&d=1105706818

[Terry]

Here are some more pictures of a Rochelle

[kslerner]

12285
I have a Kohler "Old Style" Rochelle Model #K-3385-EB (30886) which is leaking down the back of the toilet indicating that the valve is not completely shutting off. I can hear a slight trickle of water even after the ballcock is in the closed position. When I pull up on the ball by hand the water shuts off, but it won't shut off due to a rising water level in the tank, even if I bend the rod down lower. I have replaced the following parts (51251, 51420, 51250, 51288, 20504, 51291, 51435, 51444, 51230, 53154, 50159, 51350). I have completely replaced the valve parts with no success; there is still a trickle I can't get rid of. I can't understand why the valve is not shutting off. Kohler has not been helpful on this point. To replace the entire unit would cost $350.00, probablly not a good investment for a 15 year old toilet. Should I buyt a new part 51428? Can you offer any suggestions for why there is still a leak and how to fix it other than replacing the entire fixture?

[jadnashua]

This is exactly the main reason people sometimes shy away from Kohler...they 'roll their own' and often use custom designs, then because the production is low, and they change it often, aftermarket usually doesn't make parts available, either. I do like the way much of their stuff looks, but it can be a bear to keep it working. No way would I spend $350 to replace that part...I'd much rather invest that money into a new toilet that probably would work better and save water and sewer costs with each flush AND I could get repair parts for cheaply and easily. The vast majority of toilets out there use a few common parts. Unless it is a weird designer color, maybe now is the time to look into something newer. All of the newe toilets are required to use 1.6g, and that may change to 1.28g. Many work quite well with that lower flush volume.

If you are lucky, you may be able to fit a 'convential' fill valve into your toilet, but a plumber, familiar with that, would be needed to tell. If so, then, the entire mechanism could be replace for less than $15 off-the-shelf from nearly any plumbing or big box store.

[jimbo]

Are you using OEM parts? Here is the kohler parts page for that toilet:http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler.com/ServicePartsPage.aspx?DocumentID=ef64f57c17e243048 644ac4cf1fb78e5&ModelID=38e37094103946ac9900678a8b182932

http://www.terrylove.com/wc/kohler/k-3385_parts_1.jpg
http://www.terrylove.com/wc/kohler/k-3385_parts_2.jpg

http://www.terrylove.com/wc/kohler/k-3385_parts_3.jpg

[goran]

Hi,

I have KOHLER ROCHELLE Toilet Model K3385 EB.
It was leaking(Not an obvious leak)But water meter suggested the leak.
So I just purchased 350$ repair kit(Part # 30668) from Kohler.
I really feel bad now about spending so much money on an old toilet & I would really love if someone can show me how to install this kit
Is there any link or video available?
I really appreciate your help.
Thanks.
Goran

[goran]

Hi,

I have KOHLER ROCHELLE Toilet Model K-3385 EB.
It was leaking(Not an obvious leak)But water meter suggested the leak.
So I just purchased 350$ repair kit(Part # 30668) from Kohler.
I really feel bad now about spending so much money on an old toilet & I would really love if someone can show me how to install this kit
Is there any link or video available?
I really appreciate your help.
Thanks.
I have also posted this in Toilet Forum as I am unsure which forum installation of toilet repair kit will go to?
Goran

[jadnashua]

I can't help with how to install it, I've never seen one. But, if it was I, I'd return the kit and buy a new toilet for probably about the same price (or less, depending on style). If it's a weird color, maybe I'd keep it, but probably not. There are lots of toilets out there that work well where the parts are cheap. Check out some of the Toto line, would be my first choice.

[hj]

Remove the tank ball, and then "loosen the bolt" underneath it. Once it is loose enough you can lift and slide the flush valve to one side, work one end of the "toggle bolt" out of the hole and then slide the other side out also.

[jnawrocki]

You can get the complete rebuilt kit from Plumber Surplus on the web for 237.50 with free shipping. They also have the toilet seats in most colors.

[Eddie_T]

I have a new problem, the ball arm oscillates on occasion and makes weird thumping noises. I altered the intensity of the oscillation by placing a rubber band around the arm and the valve.

I too have problems with available lift wires, both Ace and Lowes have made in China wires which are aluminum plated to appear as brass. I have low ph water and the aluminum doesn't last long. I solved the problem by using heavy copper wire to make the lift wire. I threaded the soft copper by using a nut as a die.

[Eddie_T]

A new problem the 51344 shaft eases out to the point that it hangs the lift mechanism. If I push it back in place it stays for a few days then creeps out again. I haven't tried pulling it all the way out so I don't know what is supposed to hold it in place. What appears to be a white crown nut is in place so my guess is that the shaft must be made of two parts and the crown is holding the other part in place but the shaft slips out of the larger part.

[BizzyBeePlumbing]

I know you have 6 of these in your house, but I would just replace them. Old Kohler is expensive to repair and a ton of the aftermarket parts are horribly made and by reading your last post, you are figuring this out.. Weird things happen with aftermarket parts on Kohler toilet.

I always recommend 2 piece toilets, but if you like your one piece Kohler has made some great changes to new their one piece toilets and they are not hard and expensive to fix now. Bit the bullet and upgrade. You will be happy for another 15-25 years instead of trying to fix these every year.

[reefer]

12285
I have a Kohler "Old Style" Rochelle Model #K-3385-EB (30886) which is leaking down the back of the toilet indicating that the valve is not completely shutting off. I can hear a slight trickle of water even after the ballcock is in the closed position. When I pull up on the ball by hand the water shuts off, but it won't shut off due to a rising water level in the tank, even if I bend the rod down lower. I have replaced the following parts (51251, 51420, 51250, 51288, 20504, 51291, 51435, 51444, 51230, 53154, 50159, 51350). I have completely replaced the valve parts with no success; there is still a trickle I can't get rid of. I can't understand why the valve is not shutting off. Kohler has not been helpful on this point. To replace the entire unit would cost $350.00, probablly not a good investment for a 15 year old toilet. Should I buyt a new part 51428? Can you offer any suggestions for why there is still a leak and how to fix it other than replacing the entire fixture?

I do NOT see part number 51419 (Seat) listed on you replaced parts list. This seat can be removed with an allen wrench (not sure of the size). If the very top of this seat is not totally smooth, the water will not shut off completely. Put your finger on it and twist it around...maybe you will feel a "burr". Even if you DON'T, I'd replace that item first. Also if the level of the water in your tank is too high the water will continue to run into the rim around bowl. See if the water level is above the "hole" in the front of your tank. There is a short hose that runs from the unit into the rim of the bowl. It is up high...at the water level...and runs frontwards towards the front of the toilet into the rim around the bowl. That's the rim with all the little holes in it...you can feel them by running your hand under the rim.
Lastly, if part number 51428(Cap & Float Lever Assembly) is not totally clean, the "plunger" will not slide up and down easily. This could cause that problem, which say can be fixed by lifting the ball up.
Take that part off the clean the "hole" with a stiff brush using Brasso, or some other brass cleaner. Sometimes a build-up of calcium-like crud can form there. For a brush, go to a auto parts store and buy a cheap spark plug adjuster...sometimes they come with a brush. Call Autozone and see if they have a brush like that. If the hole is clean, the o-ring will make good contact with the sides. Good luck.

[Limuobai]

I do NOT see part number 51419 (Seat) listed on you replaced parts list. This seat can be removed with an allen wrench (not sure of the size). If the very top of this seat is not totally smooth, the water will not shut off completely. Put your finger on it and twist it around...maybe you will feel a "burr". Even if you DON'T, I'd replace that item first. Also if the level of the water in your tank is too high the water will continue to run into the rim around bowl. See if the water level is above the "hole" in the front of your tank. There is a short hose that runs from the unit into the rim of the bowl. It is up high...at the water level...and runs frontwards towards the front of the toilet into the rim around the bowl. That's the rim with all the little holes in it...you can feel them by running your hand under the rim.
Lastly, if part number 51428(Cap & Float Lever Assembly) is not totally clean, the "plunger" will not slide up and down easily. This could cause that problem, which say can be fixed by lifting the ball up.
Take that part off the clean the "hole" with a stiff brush using Brasso, or some other brass cleaner. Sometimes a build-up of calcium-like crud can form there. For a brush, go to a auto parts store and buy a cheap spark plug adjuster...sometimes they come with a brush. Call Autozone and see if they have a brush like that. If the hole is clean, the o-ring will make good contact with the sides. Good luck.
Hi, Kslerner, Did you try Reefer's suggestion? Did it work? I'm having the same problem. I bought a 10" ball cock arm to extend the total length from the original 12" (including ball) to 15". That help a lot but not completely shutting off the water. I can still hear a tiny little bit of hissing. I'd like to find a perfect solution.

[grazzy]

I am still stuck with a couple of these brass units that sell for anywhere from $240 to $389. I took an impact wrench and a 1-1/16" socket to remove the check plunger which has a groove and a little gasket (part no. 20504) that seems to have failed, causing the continuous leaking whther the ballcock arm is held upward or not. There are no other parts in this side of the unit. On the side fastened with the two screws is another plunger kit that is readily available online and from Fergusons and other parts supply places. I believe most of the leaking occurs in one of these two locations or from allowing the water level to come up too high and flow thru the upper part of the toilet into the bowl. It is critical to stop the ballcock at the water line.

[SteveF]

Have replaced all the rubber on the unit and the hex nut(part) right on top ( part number 51288) still gushes water during the fill cycle. After it shuts off, it is ok. Any thought on how to stop the gushing during the fill cycle? The water is leaking into the white plastic tube..somehow it gets in the tube even though the slip washer is new and then the water drips out.

http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler.com/ServicePartsPage.aspx?DocumentID=ef64f57c17e243048 644ac4cf1fb78e5&ModelID=38e37094103946ac9900678a8b182932

[Limuobai]

I finally figured out my K3385 problem. I filled the tank and then turned off the water supply. After 1/2 hour, the whole tank of water is gone. The final water level is sitting right at the rim of the tank seal where the flapper sits. To be safe, I changed out the flapper, the tank rubber seal, and other rubber parts with genuine Kohler parts. The problem persists!!! I then noticed the flapper is not sitting on the metal ring tightly. I pressed down the flapper to create a tight seal, and repeat the experiment. The water didn't go lower for 2 hours. So I readjusted the lift wire carefully so that it won't put up lift pressure on the flapper after flushing. So far so good but not sure how long it will last. I would say this is a design flaw by Kohler. No professional engineer would let such a lousy design sold to the market place.

[Gary Swart]

I skimmed through this thread looking for some humor. I found it. It amazes me no end why anyone would spend more money for a part to fix an old obsolete toilet than a brand new Toto. (several models cost less than this part). Even when the repair is made, the toilet is a first generation low flow, and this is the generation that earned low flow toilets their bad reputation. Even American Standard work pretty well now... if you can find one that is not lopsided, patched, or otherwise defective from the factory.

[Limuobai]

Not if you have a matching Kohler sink, tiled floor, tiled wall, ..., etc.


I skimmed through this thread looking for some humor. I found it. It amazes me no end why anyone would spend more money for a part to fix an old obsolete toilet than a brand new Toto. (several models cost less than this part). Even when the repair is made, the toilet is a first generation low flow, and this is the generation that earned low flow toilets their bad reputation. Even American Standard work pretty well now... if you can find one that is not lopsided, patched, or otherwise defective from the factory.

[MoFoJoe]

Not if you have a matching Kohler sink, tiled floor, tiled wall, ..., etc.

^This is the exact same reason why I am out searching for replacement parts for my 1982 Kolher Pompton toilet. When you have matching Kolher steeping whirlpool bath, Kolher dual sinks and Kolher 4' shower stall and those colors were the anchor points of your bathroom decor.........parts replacement makes sense to me.

[MoFoJoe]

I guess we all have our own priorities. Mine is to have appliances that perform like they should. Now I'm not going to mix stripes with polka dots, or pink with orange, but if I have a new top of the line toilet that is a different color than my bath tub and that bothers you, then you can just hold it until you get to your home where the colors match but the toilet clogs and is unreliable.

.....and I guess when my 1982 Kolher Pompton developes similar symptoms such that you mention, I may. For a 1982 all Kolher bathroom with only once replacing the toilet flush ball and now #51429 for 5 bucks locally, I'm pleased. Would I buy Kolher again?....Never, but it is what it is and I sure do like the (peace of mind) built-in over flow design protection....

Edit:....and I have untreated well water