Working with PVC fittings - just slip tight or hammer

Chefwong · Aug 21, 2006

It's been awhile since working with PVC.

Do I just clean/cement and slip the fitting in as much as I can or do I hammer/mallet the fittings in. It's not that bad with pipe/fitting - I'm talking more when doing adapters to bushing pieces, etc.

Rdtompki · Aug 21, 2006

The bushings should go in all the way although they can be a snug fit. Make sure the pipe is clean, primed and put a thin coating of solvent on both pieces. I usually find I need to use the palm of my right hand and reall push on bushings whereas normal fitting slide completely together rather easily.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Jadnashua · Aug 21, 2006

Twist about a 1/4-turn as you push it in. This spreads the glue, then hold it for a few moments to ensure it doesn't spring back until the solvent evaporates. If you aren't careful and hold it for a moment, it will surprise you and spring back.

vaplumber · Aug 21, 2006

Some of the fittings seem to be an impossible fit when trying to dry fit (without solvent or primer) but when you have everything ready, and apply the primer and solvent, it will add a slight amount of lubrication. The fitting may still be snug though, requiring a little force. Push them together by hand, twisting slightly, and hold the two parts together until the slovent starts to grip.

Gary Swart · Aug 21, 2006

Dry fitting PVC is not advisable because they are very difficult to get apart. When you are ready to assemble, prime the pipe and fitting then wipe on a coat of solvent on the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe. Push together with a slight twist. Hold the assembly together for a few second until the weld is complete. Taking pressure off too soon will allow the joint to slip apart.

Kordts · Aug 21, 2006

PVC is "interference fit" you aren't supposed to be able to dry fit it completely.

Chefwong · Aug 22, 2006

Thanks guys. I was actually helping my bro-in-law replace a short section under his laudry room sink about 2 months ago....and even after primer/solvent. It was the same setup 2-1 1/2" bushing to adapter and even with a slight turn, the fitting was not flush to the bottom.

It was pretty snug, so I gave it a couple of good wacks on it with the mallet to get it in ever so more and then held it in place till it set.

Just wasn't sure if these pieces were meant to be flush or as long as it's *snug and tight* with a solid glue connection, was all that was needed.

Verdeboy · Aug 22, 2006

My experience is that if I push and turn until everything is snug and tight, it won't leak--even if the pieces aren't 100% flush. I would only use a rubber mallet if the pieces aren't going together at all for whatever reason. But this has never happened.

Prashster · Aug 23, 2006

I'd be wary of the mallet in the future. Some cement can set very quickly. If you twist too much or hammer too much, you can break the bond. Quick pushing in with 1/4 turn is the best; the solvent will lube it enough to get to appropriate depth. If you're not achieving the proper depth (at least 3/4 the way to flush) then either the pipe section is too long or it's not cut square or it hasn't been properly deburred

Chefwong · Aug 23, 2006

hi there -

I'm the OP of this thread. It's not pipe but just fittings. Turns out there are some *variances* in fittings as I did another run with a 2-1 1/2" bushing to tubular adapter and both went right in - snug with maybe 1/8" protruding.

Still better than the same fitting setup I did for my bro-in law a couple months ago. Maybe it was off but it was seriously tight........

Jadnashua · Aug 23, 2006

Could it be that you were trying to put schedule 80 into schedule 40 connectors? I'm just guessing here.

Working with PVC fittings - just slip tight or hammer

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