frost proof faucet installation problem

Looking for some options/suggestions. During the process of completing my basement I removed an interior wall which also hid the brass pipe going to my frost proof outdoor faucet. Now with the wall gone i want to re-install the frost proof faucet but now the depth of my exterior wall (2x6) doesn't seem deep enough to cover my new 4" frost proof faucet, the 90 deg elbow, and the pipe that i need to run up the wall into my ceiling joists. Looking for some suggestions and what you guys think would be the best solution. Thanks!!

frostproof

Are you sure it's frostproof?
Have never seen one that short.
The frostproof needs to come into the building. Thats where the shut off is.

Aren't most f-free bibs 9-12 inches? 4" seems like a regular bib.

Not sure why you're supply is coming UP the basement wall. Can you tap into the cold water supply somewhere else along the ceiling and run through the ceiling joist cavity to your destination?

Else, go up the wall into the ceiling cavity, go 90 toward the center of the house for a foot, then do a 180 back to the rim joist. I know it's a lot of bends, but if there's no other option... You can perhaps use 45's to maximize the sweep and minimize the pressure loss.

I have the 425BFR (4") model from Arrowhead Brass, Regarding the supply line, yes, it comes "down" the wall from in between my ceiling joist. Is is possible to shim the faucet somehow on the outside of the house to give me the additional space? Thanks.

http://champion-arrowhead.com/

can u post a picture. Getting confused. If you by 'shim' the bib to mean pull it away from the wall, then the sillcock won't extend into the warmth of the house, and your bib won't be 'frost free' anymore.

I'm too old to trust that it's as safe as it says it is...........

Maybe I'm the only one confused here, but a "frost free" faucet is frost free because the actual water shut off is 12" to 14" inside the house. When the water is turned off, the water drains from this length of pipe so it can't freeze. When you say you want to shim the valve out, do you mean you want to mount part of the faucet outside leaving only 4" inside? If that is what you mean, you will lose at least most of the freeze protection. Usually the water supply line you connect to is located in a heated crawl space or basement so this 12" the valve protrudes into the house is not a decor problem. I'm not sure I have followed the description of you problem correctly, but the only way for a frost free faucet to work is for the entire length of the valve to be inside a frost free area.

I think he is talking about some sillcock that has something thermal inside that senses a freeze and allows the faucet to drip so it won't freeze.
Almost seems impossible.

I'll just shut mine off inside and open the waste side of a stop and waste or else use a conventional frostproof....

I know their catalog lists a 4" bib under the Frost-Free hose bib section, but if it were me, I would not get one this short. It needs to be 9-12"
- prashun

Amen.........