View Full Version : Irragation from river
04-20-2006, 10:50 AM
I live close to a river and want to pump from the river to water new lawn, I have about a 60 ft elevation rise from water to yard and a distance of about 450 ft. I have a 3/4 hp submersible pump I want to use it is a 2 wire pump, does anyone have any ideas about how to or best way to install in the river laying down, upright or anyway that would work best, should it be placed in a piece of well casing or not? I not going to use a pressure tank and run straight to sprinklers, just regular sprinklers not popup ones. What size pipe should I use and about how many sprinklers do you think it will run. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
04-20-2006, 11:33 AM
It will no doubt pump the water. You should find the model number of the pump so you can find its characteristics (GPM and pressure capability). What is the outlet size on the pump?
I usually suspend submersibles in a lake from a float, though some will support them at an angle. Unless the water is very hot (unlikely) you shouldn't need a sleeve to simulate the well. If you use a sleeve, even if the sleeve is open at the top you will get enough flow past the motor to keep it cool. In any case, the pump should be supported off the bottom.
If you use a float, connect the black poly pipe (size TBD depending on pump capacity) with a male elbow. Run a length of 12/2 UF with ground to the pump, fastened to the pipe with Ty-Raps. Goulds recommendation is #12 for up to 480 feet from service entrance; #10 for up to 760 feet.
If there is no back pressure (open discharge) it is possible to overload the pump, both electrically and mechanically. Later designs of smaller pumps are designed so they will not be damaged if operated at open discharge.
If you have ANY shut-off valve in the line, you should add a relief valve off a tee. Submersibles will generate tremendous pressure if shut off, and will probably blow the pipe or joints will come apart.
04-20-2006, 11:47 AM
The pump has a 1 1/4 outlet should I use 1 1/4 or choke it down to 1 in which is better for my purpose. The pump is a sta-rite siganture 2000.
04-20-2006, 12:59 PM
There are at least 5 different Sta-Rite Signature 2000 3/4 HP pumps at the site at the link below. They range from 20 GPM Model 27 GPM actual at 86 psi; to 5 GPM Model 7 GPM actual at 225 psi. You should find the actual model number for your pump.
For some reason, this site eliminates a lot of the characters in the middle of a link, with the result that it won't work. Take the link as it now prints and put your own http://www (http://www/) ahead of it and it will work.
Manufacturers put several different pump heads on a particular size motor to operate at the required flow and pressure and depth of well. Knowing the HP doesn't tell you what pump head is on the pump.
If you find that you have a deep well (maybe 10 gpm pump), you should be able to buy the 20 GPM rated pump head for your pumping out of the river, and put it on your motor. In fact, if it is a standard Franklin motor, you could put a Goulds pump head on it.
You must click through 3 pages of the table to see all of the Sta-Rite models.
04-20-2006, 04:14 PM
Be aware that, depending on where you live, you may need a permit to pull water from any stream or lake (unless entirely on your land). The fines can be substantial, if they apply; the permit may be cheap.
04-21-2006, 08:34 AM
I have been building pumps into the lake strainer that we sell. This makes for an easy installation and keeps the pumps inlet screen from getting plugged up with leaves, minnows etc. The screen area of the lake strainer is probably 100 times that of the pumps screened inlet so the movement of water past the screen is much slower which pulls less debris past it.
You can also use a 5 gallon bucket with an almost 4" hole top and bottom, drill a lot of 1/8" holes in the bucket to keep the big stuff away from the pumps inlet.