waste too high

I should have lowered the waste before installing cabinets and counter, especially with my extra-deep undermount sink on one side and the displosal on the other. The pipe that makes a 90 degree bend right off the strainer basket assembly and the pipe coming horizontally from the disposal are barely higher than the waste pipe coming from the back wall. I had to use a low-inlet j-bend to get everything to fit. As it is, there will always be standing water in most of the piping. Here are my questions:

-- all piping is plastic except low inlet j-bend (couldn't find plastic) and there is an ever-so-tiny leak. Can I connect plastic with chrome pipe? If so, which nuts should I use, chrome or plastic? Which washers, rubber or plastic?

-- do I need teflon tape or pipe joint compound? I didn't use any.

--I thought this type of piping only needed hand-tightening. I had to use a wrench with a good deal of pressure for every connection to stop the leaks.

-- basically, standing water is not just in the trap, but in all the piping under the sink, since the waste is so high. Is this a problem? Is this why I find about a tablespoon of water on the cabinet floor in the morning?

Any help would be appreciated.

water

You find water in the cabinet because you have a leak. If the water is high enough to always be in the disposer, then you have a different problem. But water anywhere except in the trap will always cause problems, especially when the disposer is used.

clarity

So, are you saying that the compression-type waste pipe under the sink is not meant to hold water all the time? Then can I replace it with cemented PVC?

Nope...if fit together properly, it should not leak. A trap MUST contain water to work properly. If there is excessive height to the arm, then it will have more standing water than just in the trap, which will show up leaks more readily.

Can you find a different disposal with a higher outlet?

I looked at several disposals: Insinkerator, Kitchenaide, GE, Maytag, Jenn-Aire, and even Franke and Viking. My Insinkerator Badger 5 is actually the best I found for my situation. In fact, they recommend that the centerline of the disposer discharge to the centerline of the waste pipe entering wall be greater than 1/4" to prevent standing water in disposer; I have that or a little more.

I took everything apart. Tried to line up everything as perfectly as possible, re-cut some stuff for that purpose, used pipe-joint compound on all threads, and only hand-tightened slipnuts until just snug. Then ran tests and increased pressure on all slip nuts, just enough to stop leaks. I have 1 leak I can't resolve, at the disposal discharge. I am going to try to reassemble it one for time.

leak

If it is at the discharge of the Badger V, you may have put the rubber gasket over the flanged tailpiece instead of between the flange and the disposer body.

my 2 cents

I sometimes wrap teflon tape around the trap threads, than pipe dope.

run nothing but hot water for a while. you will find, you can then tighten more. after you're sure no leaks try this final test. lay newspaper on cabinet
bottom. than fill sinks up all the way and let drain. this is my test good luck
Tool ps I've found newspapers will make a small leak very visual!

HJ,

I didn't use a tailpiece-type fitting at the disposal discharge. I put a nut and plastic washer on a 1 1/2" plastic tube that I slipped inside inside the discharge. It's difficult to explain so I posted some pictures at http://www.kukumber.com/trap/. Is this the wrong way to do this?

This is how most of these are done.

It's easier to point the disposer toward the other basket, using a baffle tee, so that the waste doesn't go up the other arm.

I would consider cutting the wall and seeing if the drain can be lowered.
I don't use tape or paste on p-trap fittings.

leak

Tool,

I quite often did the same things that you mentioned...........

thank's plumber 1

Not all is taught ! experimenting can lead to good fixes

Most kitchen sinks have a cleanout, which is usually roughed in lower than the drain. If you have a cleanout just install a male adpt and use it as your drain, then convert the drain that is too high into a cleanout. Didn't see a cleanout in your pictures,another option would be to throw a wye on the drain stub out and dual trap your disposal and basket strainer seperately. These methods aren't code friendly but will make your drain more functional. Worst case would be to re-rough the drain in the wall. I personally use a little teflon based pipe dope on the slipwashers and tighten the drain nuts nice and snug, be careful not to overtighten.