New ball valve leaking..but only from handle/screw area?

I just soldered in a new ball valve for my cold water supply to my upstairs bathroom. All the solder joints are great, but I have a slight leak where the screw tightens the actual handle onto the valve.

I had removed the screw, handle and washer before soldering. I soldered in the open position.

Now when I put them back on, and turn on the valve a slight bit of water comes out of the screw area.. only when the valve is in the open position. Closed it is fine, as I guess I should expect.

Thus, what can be done about this?

1) Tighten it more… although it is as tight as it can really go and tightening it more seems to make it worse.
2) Take the handle apart and try again . I actually took it apart already and moved the washer from between the handle and screw to between the valve and handle. Which is correct placement? Valve, washer, handle, screw OR Valve, handle, washer, screw?
3) Replace the valve? I would REALLY NOT WANT TO do this since it is in a very hard to reach area and it took me quite awhile to get everything in there in the first place.
4) Other??


The valve states American Valve.. not sure if this is a quality brand or not.

Thanks in advance,

Underneath the handle there should be a small thin nut that can be tightened to stop the leak.

Cass said:

Underneath the handle there should be a small thin nut that can be tightened to stop the leak.

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I think I know what nut you are talking about... So are you saying I should take the main nut, handle, and washer off.... then tighten the small thin nut you describe? THen put back together?

You may not have to take the handle off, just tighten the packing nut until the leak stops. It shouldn't take much.

Yes. It is that easy.

The packing nut loosened when it was shipped halfway across the country. A quick tightening of the nut will fix the problem.

As always, you guys have the answer. That did it.

Thanks again!

I have the same issue, but i don't have a wrench thin enough to tighten the nut. Can you remove the handle and then tighten the nut that is under the handle and then put the handle back on?

Thanks
Bob

bwall said:

I have the same issue, but i don't have a wrench thin enough to tighten the nut.

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This is what bench grinders were invented for...

bwall said:

I have the same issue, but i don't have a wrench thin enough to tighten the nut. Can you remove the handle and then tighten the nut that is under the handle and then put the handle back on?

Thanks
Bob

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There are two types of packings on those ball valves, NIBCO uses both styles, one is the type that will tighten till it stops and the other will just spin, using the tightening of the nut to which the handle is attached by that will do the trick by simply tightening the nut.

Never shut/move the ball valve until it cools down; otherwise you'll distort the teflon gland and you'll have a brand new valve that won't shut off.


You can make those ball valves explode the gland if you solder in the closed position on both sides of the valve. You can go to a supply house and buy new valves, crank them open and they will "pop" for the first time when you turn the handle.

Rancher said:

This is what bench grinders were invented for...

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LMAO at that one...
Just remember...
Don't try grinding down adjustable wrenches... they stop working...lol

So glad I found this. Installed these in the basement so I could isolate my master bath while I renovate it. They started leaking so I adjusted the screw. But when I put the nut on one of them I couldn’t get it to tighten. Now I have a loose handle and a constant drip out of my mixing valve. Help please.