Ball Valve Question?

JK60 · Mar 24, 2006

I've installed this ball valve (pictured below) in my main water supply line. It is rated 600 WOG so I assumed that it can be used with either water, oil, or gas. What throws me off is the reference on the handle stating "shut off valve for LP gas". Did I install the wrong valve? Thanks for any information!!!

Jerry

Finnegan · Mar 24, 2006

If the valve works, it is the right one. Seriously, there is no problem with the valve.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

JK60 · Mar 24, 2006

Thank you for the information. The valve does work. My main concern was really to make sure that the valve does not contain any materials not compatible with a potable water system.

hj · Mar 24, 2006

valve

The "600 WOG" means water, oil, and liquid gas.

Jimbo · Mar 24, 2006

WOG is water, oil, and gas ( meaning compressed gas, not necessarily fuel gas) but it also carries the UL listing for LP gas. I would like to see an AGA cert. but I guess it is not mandatory. WSP means working steam pressure.

JK60 · Mar 24, 2006

Thank you hj and jimbo. When I installed the valve I threw away the tag that had the valve model number and other pertinent information. I went back to the store where I got the valve to see what information was available on that tag. Beside the model number the tag included a statement that the valve can be used for water, oil, and air. I confirmed this information on the manufacturer's website. So my self induced "crisis" is over, but I still don't understand the LP statement on the handle especially in view of the fact that usage with gas or liquid gas is not mentioned, but as you guys said WOG stands for water, oil, and gas. It was/is a bit confusing to me as well as to the store personnel when I asked them about the statement on the handle. But ultimately all is well that ends well...

Jimbo · Mar 24, 2006

We know that you did not by a Mueller valve at a reputable plumbing supply. The employees were wearing a red or orange apron, I'm guessing.

JK60 · Mar 24, 2006

Your guess is right on the money - it was orange!!!

Dunbar Plumbing · Mar 24, 2006

That valve right there I do not install. I will post pictures of those next time I have to replace one after just a few short years. Matter of fact I ended up with some by accident (online auction) I plan on turning around and selling to get rid of them.

Most times they will cancer out where the copper solders into the valve. That brass socket is extremely thin (unlike Nibco) and for some reason pitting occurs either by the flux corrosion or particles of sand when they casted the valve.

If I didn't scrap out my copper and brass recently I would of grabbed a handful of these valves and showed proof of what they look like.

Don't tear yours out because of what I stated, it might just be because of hard water in this area or huge bad lot of brass valves. But they are notorious for pitting/leaking.

I bet you paid $5.69 for that valve, right?

JK60 · Mar 24, 2006

The 3/4" Mueller ball valves were actually $8.97 in my area. Similarly the Watts 3/4" ball valves were within $.20 of that price. To my untrained eye the Mueller valve looked like a better product, but obviously I could be wrong. Those were the only two types available. The store does carry a lot of Nibco products but I did not see any Nibco ball valves.

JK60 · Mar 25, 2006

Ok, so given the choice would you have taken the Watts valve over the Mueller? Next time around should I look for Nibco ball valves? What do you professionals recommend?

Thanks,

Jerry

Kristi · Mar 26, 2006

R&W

Personally I like Red & White...

more $, but they've never given me grief!

JK60 · Mar 26, 2006

Kristi, thank you for the tip. In my area of San Francisco, Red White seems to have been a predominant brand of gate valves that were installed in homes at some point in time. In fact the Mueller ball valve that I have recently used was a replacement for an old Red White gate valve (probably at least 25 year vintage). I have a few more old Red White gate valves spread out throughout the house. I'll look into the Red White ball valves.

Thanks,

Jerry

JK60 · Mar 26, 2006

Anyone have experience with Apollo ball valves made by Conbraco and available at Graingers?

JK60 · Mar 27, 2006

Just for general information in case anyone is interested, Italy seems to be the country of manufacture of many ball valves. The Mueller valve pictured above, the Nibco SFP600N series, and the Red White 5049F series are all manufactured there. It looks as if Apollo valves may be one of the few valves manufactured in the U.S.

Dunbar Plumbing · Mar 27, 2006

Disturbing it is. I just did work behind another company that installed a powervent water heater and the 3/4" copper couplings they used were stamped KOREA.

I don't think we can ever expect "everything" to be American made/bought/sold when we demand such a high wage for our time for such little work (factories) and we have people in other countries assembling these components of plumbing for literally pennies on the hour. And some of them are happy with that wage. Now back to my immigration protest webcam in Los Angeles.

JK60 · Mar 30, 2006

More Questions

In my continued attempt to find a domestically made ball valve, I've ran across Hammond valves. As with another premier ball valve manufacturer, Apollo, they have a domestic line and an import line. Within the domestic line they have a valve that is specifically rated for usage with drinking water, the 8511-NSF. The standard 8511 valve (without the NSF in the model No.) is not NSF rated for drinking water, but I am told by Hammond that it can be used in a potable water system. Can anyone shed some light on this. Are there any issues in using the standard valve as opposed to the NSF rated valve or is it OK to use it?

Thank you,

Jerry

Mikey · Apr 4, 2006

How to sweat a Nylon-seat ball valve?

I've always taken valves apart when sweating them onto the lines (back in the days of washer-type valves), and wonder how you keep from melting the Nylon or other plastic-type seats on the new ball valves and 1/4-turn stops (other than be verrrry careful)? They sure don't come apart.

Dunbar Plumbing · Apr 4, 2006

The key to sweating a ball valve is leaving the valve in the open position while soldering and absolutely do not move the handle to shut it off or partially close it until it is cold. Otherwise you will distort the gland.

Ball Valve Question?

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