View Full Version : Tiling around bathroom light switches
Tiling questions:
How do I tile around and adjust light switches and receptacles and then reinstall the plates so they are flush to the new walls and backsplashes. All advise would be greatly appreciated.
I'm a new do-it-yourselfer still in learning mode. If you have advise or a website recommendation, I'd be grateful to hear from you.
Thank you.
BJW
finnegan
03-04-2006, 06:32 PM
Turn off power, make sure power is turned off, remove receptacle, tile up to outlet box and replace receptacle with ears against face of tile. Plate should sit flush. You may need a box extender and longer screws to hold receptacle in place.
Thanks Finnegan:
I'm not sure what "ears" are, but I imagine I can purchase box extenders and longer screws at any building supply store.
And I will make certain the power is off.
For tile you will not need the box extenders, possibly just longer screws.
Paul
prashster
03-06-2006, 02:23 PM
I just did this. No box extenders needed. Just longer screws. Here's the LONG explanation:
The outlet has two little circular, mickeymouse ears on the top and two on the bottom that butt up against the box face. These ears prevent the receptacle/switch from sinking below the plane of the box opening and into the box when you tighten the mounting screws.
As long as you tile right up to the lip of the box, the ears will butt up against the tile face when you fasten it to the box. Since there will be a gap between the receptacle and the screw holes in the box, though, you now need longer screws. The face plate mounts to the receptacle, which is now sitting flush with your tile, so you don't need longer screws for the face plate - just the receptacle.
One last thing: The standard mounting screws for the receptacle have 2 square washers which prevent the screw from screwing all the way out, and they help keep the receptacle from jiggling in the box. So, transfer them to the longer screws.
One last one-in-a-million caveat: I wouldn't do this with metallic tiles for obvious reasons ;)
Got it. Longer screws, square washers. Thank you each for your help.
jadnashua
03-06-2006, 08:39 PM
There are plastic box extender rings that are cheap and come in various sizes. If the only part that is holding it out are the ears, it will be springy if it is an outlet...it won't feel firm. With the extender rings, you have more surface area to support the outlet (and they are cheap).
Lakee911
03-07-2006, 06:39 AM
There are plastic box extender rings that are cheap and come in various sizes. If the only part that is holding it out are the ears, it will be springy if it is an outlet...it won't feel firm. With the extender rings, you have more surface area to support the outlet (and they are cheap).
I agree, get the box extender. Even though tile is not combustable, its probably code that the extender be there.
Jason
khayes
03-07-2006, 07:26 AM
I've tiled several kitchen backsplashes. If the receptacle ears do not fit against the surface of the tile I use a small package of yellow plastic spacers from HD or Lowes. They're found in the electrical department. You can stack these spacers until they bring your receptacle flush with the tile...and use longer screws.