4 " Main Drain Tee Couple Question

I'm hoping a pro or two might be able to help me here:

I have a bathroom renovation where I need to introduce a 4"x4"x1.5" tee to plumb a 1.5 " drain line over to a new whirlpool tub I am dropping in. The existing 4" pipe is strapped and tight as hell on the joists - so the prospect of vertical or horizontal movement is limited. I'm wondering how I can cut this pipe to work in the new tee given the 4" has no flex to really speak of? Is there an equivalent PVC slip fitting without the notches for doing a job like this (like with copper) - and is that acceptable for something not under pressure that is just cemented in this application? If so, HD certainly doesn't have them, but I thought a plumbing shop might.

I've used some very nice (but expensive) expandable slip coupling for pipe repairs in golf course irrigation work - but have never seen anything equivalent for home waste/drain applications.

Advice is greatly appreciated.

Rick

Not trying to plug any particular product here, but if it's really tight, you can use a little cable saw. These things are awesome.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(nhtrpz551tgi5dyyhzeo25qz)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=4086187

Once you cut the pipe, can you unfasten one side's straps to give yourself more play? You only need about 2-3 inches of flex to jimmy one in. This will allow you to get a rigid coupling in. Else, they make 4" fernco's, but a pro will have to tell you if it's acceptable to use them.

Another way to cut PVC

We routinely use cotton string to cut Sch 40 PVC pipe in close quarters up to 4" in diameter. Nylon string will not work; it just fuses to the PVC.

-Sam

saw

Nylon sting or a steel cable saw. But you can't use a tee, and you cannot just put a fitting in the line and run a drain to the tub.

HJ-

Why can't I tap a tee into the main line, as long as I provide slope from the tub? The run is only about 3 feet. Also, my question wasn't about the "how to" on the cutting of the line, but rather was centered around how can I get a new tee into the main line without a slip coupling if I can't get much play? I was hoping a form of coupling like a copper slip fitting witout the notches would suffice with PVC cement since there isn't pressure on the line - but I haven't seen one around. I take there is a reason for that?

Professional advice is welcome.

Rick

tee

1. You cannot use a "T", it has to be a combination Y-1/8 bend, or a Y, or a Y and 1/8 bend. That's just the way it is.
2. You also have to provide a vent for that drain.
3. Depending on where you are, the drain may have to be 2".
4. There are slip couplings but you have to be fast and lucky, plus use a slow setting cement, to get one of them into position, much less two at the same time.

Assuming you are talking about plastic pipe. Slicing in a no-hub combo is what we would use. Then Mission CP33 or eq. for transition from plastic to no-hub. Then, as HJ just said, you must have a vent; which will either have to run to a point 6" above the flood level of the tub before traveling horiz. to tie into an existing vent or go all the way through the roof on it's own. Then don't forget nail protector plates.

I cannot stress this strongly enough: If you don't know about vents you really should get some thorough plumbing education or hire someone who does, before doing any of this.

We currently opening the walls and tearing out plumbing for four bootleg apartments which were constructed by 'someone' who thought he could plumb, did not know the code, and didn't install one piece of pipe that is useable.

breplum,
Can you send me a bootleg picture, so I can see how bad it is?
terry@terrylove.com

plumbing

breplum said:

Assuming you are talking about plastic pipe. Slicing in a no-hub combo is what we would use. Then Mission CP33 or eq. for transition from plastic to no-hub. Then, as HJ just said, you must have a vent; which will either have to run to a point 6" above the flood level of the tub before traveling horiz. to tie into an existing vent or go all the way through the roof on it's own. Then don't forget nail protector plates.

I cannot stress this strongly enough: If you don't know about vents you really should get some thorough plumbing education or hire someone who does, before doing any of this.

We currently opening the walls and tearing out plumbing for four bootleg apartments which were constructed by 'someone' who thought he could plumb, did not know the code, and didn't install one piece of pipe that is useable.

Click to expand...

I guess they believed that old saying that anyone can do plumbing.

Ha............we get the work now or later it's just the later means it has been done and paid for twice.

Diy

Cass said:

Ha............we get the work now or later it's just the later means it has been done and paid for twice.

Click to expand...

Actually the second time is even more costly because you have to remove the old stuff before you can even start the new installation.