Shower installment

[blomme]

I am installing a one piece 32" shower in a corner of a basement. The walls are block. I want to build a frame for the enclosure. Do I need to put a vapor barrior against the block wall where the shower will be located? Or do I just stud up the wall and install green board before shower stall is in place. Also, do you build a platform for the shower to sit on? Any advise is very much appreciated as I do not like to cut cost on a job that is done right. Blomme.

[hj]

You install the studs, then install the shower, then install the green board around it. It either sits directly on the floor, or needs a grout filler if the shower floor is above the concrete floor.

[Gary Swart]

I installed exactly what you have in my basement. As HJ states, the enclosure attaches to the studs. I used drywall screws through holes I drilled in the flanges to prevent breaking. Instead of mortar under the base, I used a bag of Armsstrong Floor Leveling that I poured in around the edges so that it would flow under the base. I had to use strips of towel as caulking around the floor plate to stop the stuff from oozing out, and that work quite well. The base is absolutely solid when stepped on. You must make certain the stall is 100% level when you set it, and that it is 100% centered over the drain pipe. Those were the reasons why it seem to me that the floor leveling compound would be a good choice over a mortar base that is put down before setting the stall. I had the stall level and centered before committing to the leveling compound. May not be what the pros would use, but it worked very well for me. I also installed additional studs for a door to mount to. You don't need a moisture barrier, but some fiberglass insulation might help with noise.

[jadnashua]

As I understand it, as of the first of the year, greenboard is no longer code in a shower/tub wall situation. Check out www.johnbridge.com

The nail/screw holes and cut edges of the greenboard compromise the moisture barrier of the unbroken panel plus, it is not as strong as the paper backing of regular drywall. The core is still gypsum, which mold literally just eats up if it gets damp. Much better is just cbu if you are going to tile it or cover it up with something.

[sulconst2]

As I understand it, as of the first of the year, greenboard is no longer code in a shower/tub wall situation. Check out www.johnbridge.com

The nail/screw holes and cut edges of the greenboard compromise the moisture barrier of the unbroken panel plus, it is not as strong as the paper backing of regular drywall. The core is still gypsum, which mold literally just eats up if it gets damp. Much better is just cbu if you are going to tile it or cover it up with something.

you must of missed "shower enclosure". but i do agree if installing just a pan then you should/must use cbu.

[blomme]

Thanks for all replies. As far as floor leveling, I have a finished concrete basement floor, and where the shower will be going the floor is level. I think I understand that the one piece shower will be alright sitting directly on the floor. As far as 'filling' the bottom of shower with mortar, is that recommended or required?

[jadnashua]

No, I saw shower enclosure...as I understand it, greenboard is no longer considered proper for a tub or shower subsurface at all. For all practical purposes, it doesn't have a good purpose. If it is going to really get wet, it needs cbu. If it doesn't, then a good coat of paint is more than enough. It is not supposed to be put on a ceiling unless the supports are 12" maximum, so in most places it just doesn't serve a purpose. On a ceiling, it will tend to sag unles that spacing is provided. Plus, it just isn't as strong as drywall. Go over to www.johnbridge.com and bring it up - the tiling pros there will be able to point you to the relevant new code.

[jadnashua]

It depends on the shower recepter...most of them will be substantially improved by setting them in a mortar base. The thing will feel better since you will remove any chance of flexure if done right. Plus, it will give you the opportunity to ensure it is sitting level. Flexure will allow crazing and micro fractures in the surface of some.

[Gary Swart]

I wholeheartly agree with Jim. Set this on a mortar bed or use the leveling compound like I described earlier. I used this for the reasons I indicated in my earlier post and because I had a sack of it that I didn't need for anything else. It was quick, simple, and did an excellent job.