Need advice on how to properly install floor drain in concrete slab!

[Chris Tittle]

Hey y'all!! I am an electrician by trade, so when I took on the task of converting my bathroom to an ADA compliant facility I was charting new territory :eek: . I completely gutted my bathroom down to bare framing to do this and to repair water damage to the studs and drywall. I have purchased a Swantstone barrier free showerpan to allow wheelchair access. After busting up my slab I had my plumber replace the 1 1/2" tub drain to a new 2" for the shower and install a floor drain to remove any water as a result of the barrier free pan. I have two questions at this point. The first is that I believe my plumber failed to install a p-trap on the floor drain and I do not know if that is ok. The second is that I generally know how to patch slabs when I am running conduit, but I am lost when it comes to install the shower strainer/drain and finishing the floor drain/slab for tile. Can anyone give me some advice??? :confused:
I would be more than happy to answer any electrical questions as I am a licensed California Journeyman, ICC certified commercial electrical inspector, Instructor, and contractor.

Thanks,
Chris

[master plumber mark]

you better put on the brakes and come to a dead stop

If your plumber did not install a trap, make that right or

you will regret it ---when the smell overwhelms the
whole downstairs living area.


a trap is jsut normal common sense for anyone who
knows what they are doing , maybe you should check closer...


good luck

[jadnashua]

Assuming the floor is still open, and you can't see a trap, there probably isn't one, since it should be right under the shower drain opening. Depending on how deep the hole is and where the horizontal portion is, it shouldn't be too hard to install one - or, if the height isn't enough, then it will be a major pain. The plumber may have left that part off so you could get the final install perfectly aligned with the shower receptor. Try to ensure the riser coming up from the trap is plumb - it will seal and insert into the pan much easier.

Drill some holes big enough for some rebar, epoxy it in the holes, and fill the hole with a good sand/gravel mix up to the bottom of the slab, then fill it up with a concrete mix. Don't knock the drain out of alignment in the process.

If you are going to be tiling things, suggest you check out www.johnbridge.com

[Chris Tittle]

The shower drain p-trap is there, but I just don't recall one on the floor drain. I guess I will have to dig it up again to see. If I am understanding correctly the p-trap is supposed to be there to prevent sewage gas leakage.
I was more concerned in the second half of my question with how to finish the concrete around the drains for the proper elevation, to accommodate the drain fittings, and the tile. Most floor drains I've seen are slightly recessed into the floor for drainage. Filling in the hole and patching the slab with a moisture barrier, rebar, and a concrete glue/quickcrete anti-crack mix is already in the works. I do the same with conduit. My plumber used 2" ABS and explained I should use a fitting for my shower that incorporates a slip-joint for connection similar to a sink. He also said I need to leave a reveal around the drain line similar to that on my toilet line for the flange. I am not quite familiar with the drain fitting, but he stated I need the reveal to accomodate the fitting and it would seal as I push down while installing the shower pan. He has the drain line cut squarely at grade.
The floor drain has a chrome rough-in cap on it right now and appears to have a bolt-on flange about 4" below grade. Do I cover that with concrete and finish it flush with the drain opening or what?? I am assuming that I should finish the drain approx. 1/2" - 3/4" below grade and smooth the concrete to meet it. It's the bolted flange that has me scratching my head.

Thanks,
Chris

[Chris Tittle]

That looks like a usefull link!! Also I already am aware of the need to float my floor to a 6% grade for the floor drain before tiling. If I can only figure out the right way to finish the slab for the drain fittings I can begin putting my bathroom back together again. :D

Chris

[Chris Tittle]

Ok, I went to the Oatey website and viewed the online cutsheets. Swanstone provided an Oatey ABS No-Caulk drain fitting, and after viewing the cutsheets I think I am alot closer to home now. I believe I need to wrap the shower drain line with foam wrap were it penetrates the slab, so after curing I can remove it and leave the desired reveal for the nut on the bottom of the drain fitting. It appears that my plumber installed an Oatey fitting for the floor that is for a tiled shower pan with membrane hence the bolted flange. From the looks of the website it appears he should have installed a 131 series two-part adjustable slab drain. I think if I change the drain fittings I can figure the rest from there. Any further advice or comments are welcome.

Thanks,
Chris :cool: