Crooz1n
New Member
Hello I am looking for some verification/ devils advocate on my selection of boiler before I commit fully.
My house was built in 1926 it’s a brick veneer foursquare of 1612 sq feet. We installed double pane low e argon filled replacement windows when we first moved in 2006, The walls have blown in cellulose insulation. The basement is above ground on 2.5 sides (~12 inch thick poured concrete) with a walk out door and 4 old single pane windows with storms. The ceiling of the basement is insulated some with 3 inch fiberglass.
The attic is a walk up with a storage platform of around 12 x 30. It is all insulated with rock wool bats of 3 inches then loose blow in up to height of joists.(8 inch) I am in the process of air sealing and am going to further insulate with blow in up to 12 inches or so. The storage area floor is insulated underneath in the same manner with rock wool and blow in. There is a single dormer with replacement window here.
I am currently heating with a 20 Kw /68000 BTU electric boiler. 4 elements – 2 come on when called for heat then 30 seconds later the other 2 come on until heat need met. Single zone 1circulation pump. Needless to say the electric bill is killing us.
Heat loss calculations range from 29000 t0 55000 depending on who did it and which calculator you use. I have used around 10 methods as well as contractor done. I used 16 degrees as well as 0 degrees just to make sure I was covered. Average around 47700.
I have standing cast Iron radiators 580 Sq. feet worth and a single toe kick heater under the kitchen cabinet that I installed when we remodeled the kitchen and had to take out the cast iron monster under the sink.
I have an unlined brick open chimney (30 feet from flue opening to top of chimney).
I have contacted some contractors who mostly wanted to install their brand of boiler Bryant, Lennox in particular but they also quoted, Weil Mclain and Newyorker. A couple wanted to use way to large a boiler ( 105 Ultra and Bryant 75E)
After some consideration I decided to have all of them quote a Weil Mclain GV90+3 for my house. That way I can get a feel for the install cost alone as I know I can get the boiler for ~2500.00
The GV90+ can be run thru my chimney with only PVC. The others that I was quoted require AL29-4C liner at a cost of 600-900 dollars.The GV90+ is a cast iron boiler with external heat recuperator.
All have quoted Weil Mclain so I suspect it has the biggest base of trained technicians and with it being basically a cast iron unit there should be less hassle with any servicing issues.I could have went with a slant fin Victory VSPH- 45K but by the time you price in the liner you are at the cost of the GV90+. I asked about the Slant fins and did not get a good response here.
I originally thought I’d like a Burnham PVG3 or New Yorker PVCGA. I was told the local distributor doesn’t carry them.( R.E. Michaels) So I’m kind of limited as to what will be able to be readily serviced. As to higher efficiency units I don’t think the ROI is good. Am I on target here or missing the mark for a better solution?
My house was built in 1926 it’s a brick veneer foursquare of 1612 sq feet. We installed double pane low e argon filled replacement windows when we first moved in 2006, The walls have blown in cellulose insulation. The basement is above ground on 2.5 sides (~12 inch thick poured concrete) with a walk out door and 4 old single pane windows with storms. The ceiling of the basement is insulated some with 3 inch fiberglass.
The attic is a walk up with a storage platform of around 12 x 30. It is all insulated with rock wool bats of 3 inches then loose blow in up to height of joists.(8 inch) I am in the process of air sealing and am going to further insulate with blow in up to 12 inches or so. The storage area floor is insulated underneath in the same manner with rock wool and blow in. There is a single dormer with replacement window here.
I am currently heating with a 20 Kw /68000 BTU electric boiler. 4 elements – 2 come on when called for heat then 30 seconds later the other 2 come on until heat need met. Single zone 1circulation pump. Needless to say the electric bill is killing us.
Heat loss calculations range from 29000 t0 55000 depending on who did it and which calculator you use. I have used around 10 methods as well as contractor done. I used 16 degrees as well as 0 degrees just to make sure I was covered. Average around 47700.
I have standing cast Iron radiators 580 Sq. feet worth and a single toe kick heater under the kitchen cabinet that I installed when we remodeled the kitchen and had to take out the cast iron monster under the sink.
I have an unlined brick open chimney (30 feet from flue opening to top of chimney).
I have contacted some contractors who mostly wanted to install their brand of boiler Bryant, Lennox in particular but they also quoted, Weil Mclain and Newyorker. A couple wanted to use way to large a boiler ( 105 Ultra and Bryant 75E)
After some consideration I decided to have all of them quote a Weil Mclain GV90+3 for my house. That way I can get a feel for the install cost alone as I know I can get the boiler for ~2500.00
The GV90+ can be run thru my chimney with only PVC. The others that I was quoted require AL29-4C liner at a cost of 600-900 dollars.The GV90+ is a cast iron boiler with external heat recuperator.
All have quoted Weil Mclain so I suspect it has the biggest base of trained technicians and with it being basically a cast iron unit there should be less hassle with any servicing issues.I could have went with a slant fin Victory VSPH- 45K but by the time you price in the liner you are at the cost of the GV90+. I asked about the Slant fins and did not get a good response here.
I originally thought I’d like a Burnham PVG3 or New Yorker PVCGA. I was told the local distributor doesn’t carry them.( R.E. Michaels) So I’m kind of limited as to what will be able to be readily serviced. As to higher efficiency units I don’t think the ROI is good. Am I on target here or missing the mark for a better solution?
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