Outside spigot - possible freezing problem?

BuickGN

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Came home to a small flood today in the garage which is slightly lower than the rest of the basement of my raised ranch.

Recently finished some plumbing projects in the basement including moving my washer/dryer location as well as the hot water heater and also added a half bathroom.

Feared the worst that maybe a pipe let go behind my newly finished walls. Well, luckily it wasn't anything that bad. The shutoff valve for my outside spigot had a small hairline crack in it. We had a really cold night Sunday where the temps went down to about 10 degrees. I had the ball valve which I installed shut off and the outside spigot was open. Not really sure if it was cold enough in the wall to crack the valve or if it was just a defect. The valve has been in place for about 4 months now. The pipe was insulated as well as insulation stuffed between the outside wall and the pipes but the valve was not. BTW, the shutoff valve is located just about 5 inches up the wall from where the pipe goes to the outside.

Now to my question......I put the new valve in the same position inside the house as before, as a precaution should I put in another shutoff higher and farther away from the outside wall?

The pipe is not really accessible to do any sweating above the soffit in my furnace room, sort of leery of having the torch up in there. If I should add the extra valve would it be OK to use a compression joint type of valve? (if there is such an animal)
 
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leak

The pipe never drained out.
Not sure what you said but I think if I had to replace a valve there I would use a stop and waste valve so I could drain the pipe that goes to the outside.
Doesn't matter where the valve goes as long as it only serves the sill cock and is lower so you can drain the water out and the pipe won't freeze and break.
That's not a spot for a ball valve...
 
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