View Full Version : Toto CST754SF 12" Rough-in
01-16-2006, 11:01 AM
First, This forum is great! The posts are informative and entertaining. Now , my question?The distance from the wall behind the existing toilet to the flange bolts is exactly 12 inches, however, the distance from the base board to the flange bolts is 10 and three quarter inches. Will this model, Toto Darthmouth, fit? If not, which model Toto will fit these rough-in requirements?
The existing toilet, a 3 year old,American Standard 4112,1.6 gpf, ADA, elongated bowl, 12'' rough-in fits fine. It does does not flush fine nor can it take a standard toilet seat. The toilet seat mounting holes are out of alignment by 1/4 inch which gives the toilet seat a unique off center angle.
You can find detailed spec sheets for all of Toto's toilets here (http://www.totousa.com/specsheets.asp).
Looking at the spec sheet for the Dartmouth (http://www.totousa.com/admin/upload/pdfspc/S-CST754SF-1002.pdf), it looks like the relevant measurements are not supplied. :(
In looking at our newly installed Toto Ultramax 854114SG, the floor bolts are exactly 12" from the baseboard, and I measure that the back-most part of the base is 1-1/2" from the baseboard. It's really hard for me to tell whether the back of the tank gets closer to the wall than this.
Hope this helps a bit.
01-16-2006, 02:25 PM
I just installed a Vespin (not sure of the number) with a 12 inch rough in. My bolts were 12 inches from the wall./ There is a fair amount of room (probably an inch) between the tank and wall and more than that between the base and wall. Worse case you could trim baseboard behind the toilet.
If yours is a "skirted" model, pay particular attention to the cold water supply dimension. It has to be > the standard 5.5" or some refit will be required.
01-18-2006, 05:26 PM
Thank you spokaneman and jch for your information!
The advice from each of you helped convince me to proceed. The bolt flange holes on the Toto Dartmouth are about 10 and one quarter inches from the rear of the Toto Dartmouth base. The distance from the baseboard to the bolt holes was about 10 and three quarter inches. The successful install was done with a little more than one half inch to spare between the Dartmouth base and the baseboard.
The only problem with the, not quite 24 hour old, ToTo Dartmouth is the fill valve hisses and gurgles below the water in the tank and the water in the tank drops slightly below the raised water line on the overflow pipe. This is sporatic and does not occur after every flush. Hopefully, tomorrow: one of the Toto experts on this very informative site can help diagnose the cause of this problem.
Thank you again for your help.
01-18-2006, 09:34 PM
I find most often that all problems with ballcocks that toto uses is dirt related. before hooking up waterline most people forget to flush a few gallons out of it. if you take apart top of ballcock and flush out top and reverse the rubber washer it should take care of any noises you are experiencing.
01-23-2006, 11:33 AM
After my remodel, I had a 11" rough in to the toilet bolts. I fussed around shopping and figured I needed a 10" rough in to fit my situation. Not so. I put in the Toto Drake and it fit fine. Also, I have about 3/4 gap between the back of the bowl to the wall, (critical fit area), so I would think your 10 3/4 should fit OK with the Drake. The 12" rough in on the spec sheet is apparently a "grey area" for us diy's. You just won't have a wide gap in the back to the wall. Just in case, do a dry fit when you get your toilet and if for some reason it's too tight, take it back.
The Drake is an awesome product. I only wish I would have got the Sani-gloss finish.
02-06-2006, 08:27 PM
Thank you, Bowel Breaker for your fill valve cleaning suggestion. A. Snapped off blue cover. B. Removed float. C. 1/8th counter clockwise twist,easy,right. Wrong, D. Could not lift out the center tube. Tried to do this twice, gave up, because the tube felt as if it were going to break! This building has 4 toilets with Fluid Master fill valves, no problems. Fluid master is easy to adjust and easy to rebuild in the toilet tank.
The fill valve is not the only problem with this Toto Dartmouth. The water level in the tank creeps down. A. There are no external leaks. B. The chain has some slack. C. Cleaned the flapper and the white ring it rests on,twice(no debris was found on the flapper during the cleaning). When the flapper is pushed by hand 1/16 inch towards the rear of the tank, the leak(downward creep) stops. The tank top has been off this toilet every day(about 19 days) since the install for a hissing fill valve or a leaking flapper.
My work list includes the installation of 4 ADA toilets. The Toto Dartmouth cost $395.35, including tax. The Toto Dartmouth is no longer on my short list since it is a disappointment. Thanks to all for your help. Gerber,maybe?
02-06-2006, 10:32 PM
I can rebuild the Toto (Korky) valve without tools in under 30 seconds.
It does sound like the flapper is leaking. They can be replace in seconds and cost $9.87 at Lowes.
By all means, get the Gerber with the pressure assist.
Repairs to those can run up to $200 if you can't pull the cartridge after a few years.
02-25-2006, 05:13 PM
Terry, thank you for your knowledgeable advice. The flapper is most likely the source of the tank water level drop. Alignment of the flapper may also be a problem, but this may not be adjustable. Since the Install is less than 45 days old, the flapper should not have to be replaced at the project's expense.
On 2/17/06 contacted Toto Tech Support. Told Mr. "R" about the problem. He indicated that the flushvalve cap should be replaced. The Tech support personel were extremely nice and helpful. Received the new cap 2/24/06. Installed the cap 2/25/06. The type "B" flushvalve needs a sharp counter clockwise turn to "pop" the cap. This is the 3rd flush and clean of the center tube, flapper, flapper seat and tank. No visible debris was seen. Four more toilets are needed for this project. The Toto Dartmouth retro look fits well with this 100+ year old building. However, next week we will look at the Gerber 21-318. Thank you all for your help and advice.
Did this solve the problem?