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View Full Version : Toto Drake Gmax Fill Valve Issues - stutters as toilet tank finishes filling



cspackler
11-25-2012, 01:28 PM
Any help would be greatly appreciated. The water in my Toot Drake tank would not stop running; I repalced the flapper and that didnt solve the problem. I then replaced the seal inside the fill valve (with a Korky 528 replacement cap) after cleaning the other parts. That stops the constant filling but has led to a new problem. As the tank finishes filling the pipes in the whole house rattle and stutter for several seconds until the fill is complete. I can minimize the nuisance by closing the water supply to almost shut but this is obviously less than ideal as it takes forever to refill the tank.

Any thoughts on what is happening? Could I have missed something when I replaced the inside cap on the fill valve? Thanks in advance

www.terrylove.com/korky

wjcandee
11-25-2012, 02:00 PM
Could be a lot of things, but let's go through it.

When the toilet would not stop running, did the water overflow into the overflow riser? It may be that you did need to replace that flapper and now you are dealing with a second issue.

My knee-jerk reaction is that if the Korky is kind of sticking when it's turning off, then perhaps the float isn't reinstalled correctly and is binding a bit as it shuts off. I would just do the process again. Turn off the water at the toilet. Flush. Pull off the refill tube (which, presumably, is daylighted above the lip of the overflow riser; otherwise that could cause the toilet to continue to run). Pull off the blue cap on the 528. Pinch the float arms like tweezers. Remove the float. Twist off the cap. Pull out the interior tube. Pull the strainer out of the bottom of the tube. Rinse everything. You can even wipe a bit and make sure everything is all clean. Then, reassemble: white strainer back in tube. Tube back in valve. Cap back on. Reinstall float. Make sure that you hook it in so it moves freely. Test that it's freely-moving. Blue cap back on. Refill tube reattached. Turn water back on and see what happens. You might make sure that the water valve at the wall is all the way open, as well.

Have you seen the video from Korky on how to service the valve? It's helpful to watch someone else do it:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=syJY4o90prI

Terry
11-25-2012, 05:05 PM
Before you do anything, make sure the fill tube from the fill valve is directed into the overflow tube. If it's pointed into the tank, the waves it makes will rock the water level and cause a stuttering shutoff.

If this is okay, then you may have a bad shutoff valve. Most of the time, those are better left fully open, but that doesn't work, I would replace with a new 1/4 turn.

http://www.terrylove.com/images/ecodrake_insidetank.jpg

Towers Plumbing
11-28-2012, 01:51 PM
Would also recommend checking water pressure and changing the Korky out to a Fluidmaster.

Terry
11-28-2012, 01:58 PM
The Fluidmaster overfills the bowl, and they are very noisy.
A bad choice.

The fill valve made for the TOTO would be the Korky MaxPerformance. This one fills the bowl without wasting water.

GeorgeCT
11-29-2012, 07:51 AM
The Fluidmaster overfills the bowl, and they are very noisy.
A bad choice.

The fill valve made for the TOTO would be the Korky MaxPerformance. This one fills the bowl without wasting water.

Have to agree, the Korky MaxPerformace is the best replacement fill valve.
I replaced my original TOTO fill valve with the Korky MaxPerformace and find it works better and quieter.

wptski
11-29-2012, 11:22 AM
The Fluidmaster overfills the bowl, and they are very noisy.
A bad choice.

The fill valve made for the TOTO would be the Korky MaxPerformance. This one fills the bowl without wasting water.
The Fluidmaster overfills "all" bowls or just this Toto?

Terry
11-29-2012, 12:19 PM
From my experiences, The Fluidmaster 400 series overfills "all" bowls.
I shot video of one American Standard toilet that overfilled the bowl by two gallons.
The toilet was on a stand and draining into a fish tank that was marked.

At the price of water now, they would wind up costing the homeowner a lot of money every year.

wptski
11-29-2012, 01:06 PM
From my experiences, The Fluidmaster 400 series overfills "all" bowls.
I shot video of one American Standard toilet that overfilled the bowl by two gallons.
The toilet was on a stand and draining into a fish tank that was marked.

At the price of water now, they would wind up costing the homeowner a lot of money every year.
The Fluidmaster 400 in my new AS Cadet 3 1.6gpf under fills the bowl. I measured it and it's using exactly 1.6 gal.

Terry
11-29-2012, 01:19 PM
It's not the Fluidmaster sold for replacement.

I've done these repairs hundreds of times.
And you actually bought a Cadet 3?
Wow!

wptski
11-29-2012, 04:15 PM
It's not the Fluidmaster sold for replacement.

I've done these repairs hundreds of times.
And you actually bought a Cadet 3?
Wow!
Not following you. The Fluidmaster in a Toto isn't what you'd buy anywhere? The AS Cadet 3 parts list calls it a Fluidmaster 400A and from what I've read, they switched to Fluidmaster but sure when. I bought the AS before even finding this Toto loving, breathing crowd here.

Terry
11-29-2012, 04:35 PM
Typically the Fluidmaster is not installed with a TOTO. I've seen plumbers that install them, they are easy to adjust for water height. The basic 400A has no adjustment for bowl fill.
With a 1.6, since the tank loses little water, it's not so bad, but in the old five gallon toilets, by the time the tank fills, the bowl has filled several times.

TOTO...........what's not to love?

Less then 1% returns and I get lots of repeat sales out of them, their friends and their coworkers.
When I switch it up, I'm not so lucky. Nobody "likes" going back............for free..................Nobody.
It's about time.............there is only so much of that..............and short conversations with the customers. If they like what we sold them, I'm happy too.

Years ago, I used to sell a few $99 toilets. I had one customer that bought one of those, got the $80 rebate from the city...........and her home was so poor looking that I threw in for free a flange repair and a new shutoff..............something that I normally would have added $100 for on the bill.
She turned me in to the BBB and Attorney general because she didn't like her $99 toilet. She got $180 worth of free stuff, and she complained. (They thought she was a little nutty too.)
After that, I quit selling anything in that price range. Why go through all the hassle of "hoping" some down on their luck cheapskate isn't trying to get what I'm selling for nothing?
When I drop those customers, and sell quality to let's say "middle class" customers...........I get to sell them something "they" love.
They're happy, and I'm happy.

And I am a bit grumpy today. I've had bots on the site since last night trying to spam it all up. I've deleted about fifty of the little buggers in the last 24 hours. They want something for nothing too.

suceress
12-11-2012, 07:49 PM
Hi! I purchased a Toto Drake Elongated ADA height with Sanagloss back in 2008. We never got the water softener installed so the iron has done a number on the inside of the tank, which probably doesn't help the mechanisms inside.

Awhile back we started having a problem where the external lever would just stick once it was pushed down and we had to physically tap it or pull it back up. Then it just broke and can't come back up. I figured we just needed a new lever. Then we started having a problem where the tank would start to fill and it would just keep running but the water level in the tank would never reach the proper height. I shut off the water and cleaned the flap and the surrounding area, but it didn't do any good. The flap itself appears to be fine and if I pour water into the tank via a bucket the water seems to stay in the tank.

I'm guessing it is the fill valve that came with the toilet that has gone bad. Does that sound right?

I was reading the recommendations on which fill valve to get and I wasn't exactly sure. I was looking at amazon and trying to pick the right one.

Is it this one: Korky 528T

http://www.terrylove.com/korky/528T-Packaged.jpg

Or this one:
Korky 528MP
http://www.terrylove.com/images/korky_max.jpg
www.terrylove.com/korky (http://www.terrylove.com/korky)


If I get either of those, and get a new flapper, which one should I get?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31rXZrgxk%2BL._SL500_SS75_.jpg

or a blue one called
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41U%2BonP4mEL._SL500_SS75_.jpg

Also, since I need to get a new lever, does it have to be the TOTO THU068-CP or can I pull off the lever part and replace it with something else? Will that thing come apart? What other levers (if any) will fit? My mother wants to have a fancier lever for some reason.

Am I understanding correctly that the Korky version is better than the default Toto fill valve that came with the toilet?

Currently we are having to forcefully pour buckets of water into the bowl to make it flush since it seems to take more water to fill the tank than to use that method. It is a total P.I.T.A.. Once I know what we need I will order the parts.

Thank you in advance for any replies.

PS. I found the video helpful. I hope that the original Toto valve will be that easy to remove.

Terry
12-11-2012, 07:53 PM
Lowes Hardware carries the 528MPK valve, which is like the 528T except it will work with more toilets.

If you have a Drake, it's the Red Flapper, also sold at Lowes.

http://terrylove.com/korky/toto_gmax_parts.jpg

Gary Swart
12-11-2012, 08:02 PM
This is a bit behind the OP, but I'll toss it in FWIW. The problem may not be too much pressure, but every homeowner should know what the pressure is in the home. Too much is damaging to not only the toilet, but dishwasher and clothes washer that have valves that are constantly under pressure. They are not designed to last under high pressure. Your other faucets may withstand the added pressure OK, but pressure over 60 psi is really unnecessary and over 80 psi is really excessive. Pressure gauges are available at almost any hardware store for just a few dollars. If the pressure is over 80 psi, you are really pushing the envelope and a pressure regulator and thermal expansion tank should be added and the pressure adjust to a safe level. Toilet supply valves should always be full on. Shutting a valve partly does not reduce pressure, only flow.

suceress
12-11-2012, 08:13 PM
Lowes Hardware carries the 528MPK valve, which is like the 528T except it will work with more toilets.

If you have a Drake, it's the Red Flapper, also sold at Lowes.

Thank you! It's actually cheaper at Lowes-- I hope that they actually have it in stock up there. Those site to store things where they say it will be available "today" never actually work out that way in my experience. I wonder if I will even need a new flapper if the old one is in good condition. I suppose I can try it out and if the old one doesn't work then I can get a new one. I should probably pick up a new one and keep it on hand just in case.

Terry
12-11-2012, 08:28 PM
It doesn't hurt to have a spare flapper. If you don't need it, it will save a drive later.

wjcandee
12-11-2012, 10:17 PM
Your question about the lever: there are lots of levers from many manufacturers available online and at your plumbing supply that will work with that Toto; you just need one that is appropriate for the location it is in the tank (i.e. side lever).

And remember that the toilet lever is one of the only reverse-threaded items that you'll find in the house. That is, instead of lefty-loosy, righty-tighty (i.e. clockwise to tighten), you will turn the nut clockwise to LOOSEN the nut holding the handle in place, and counterclockwise to tighten it.

gusherb94
12-12-2012, 12:38 AM
From my experiences, The Fluidmaster 400 series overfills "all" bowls.
I shot video of one American Standard toilet that overfilled the bowl by two gallons.
The toilet was on a stand and draining into a fish tank that was marked.

At the price of water now, they would wind up costing the homeowner a lot of money every year.

Fluidmaster is selling the 400ARHR - their answer to the 528MP. I like the Korky's better for a few reasons, number one being that you set the water level and it refills spot on to where it's set time and time again unlike the 400A, and they seem more rust resistant. The 400ARHR has the adjustable refill rate just like the 528MP.

suceress
12-12-2012, 07:04 AM
This is a bit behind the OP, but I'll toss it in FWIW. The problem may not be too much pressure, but every homeowner should know what the pressure is in the home. Too much is damaging to not only the toilet, but dishwasher and clothes washer that have valves that are constantly under pressure. They are not designed to last under high pressure. Your other faucets may withstand the added pressure OK, but pressure over 60 psi is really unnecessary and over 80 psi is really excessive. Pressure gauges are available at almost any hardware store for just a few dollars. If the pressure is over 80 psi, you are really pushing the envelope and a pressure regulator and thermal expansion tank should be added and the pressure adjust to a safe level. Toilet supply valves should always be full on. Shutting a valve partly does not reduce pressure, only flow.
Thank you for the suggestion! I actually was thinking about the pressure and wondering if it was too much or too little and how to check it. I really don't even know where the parts you mentioned would be installed.
About 3 months ago I kept having problems out in the pump house with the water well. The lever that tells the compressor (that pumps the water up into the cistern/holding tank) kept sticking so the compressor kept running. Well, even a few months before that it had sheered off one of the pulley wheels and I had to replace it, but eventually the motor in it died. We just didn't have water all of a sudden in the middle of summer. The old pump guy we called is now senile and he forgot to come out and we ended up waiting over a week before someone gave us the number for a reliable pump & well person. He came out and said we needed a new compressor. I won't bore you with details, but it was not easy to get our hands on one with such short notice but we managed and got it set up. Then the pipes connecting to the cistern blew apart and actually came out of the cistern. The pump guy was not available so we called our usual plumber who came out, took one look at it without touching anything, said "You'll have to get a pump man", charged $65 and left. We were able to get in touch with the pump guy who had to climb inside the now empty cistern (bc the pipe had come out and water had poured out) and have someone on the outside hold the pipe while he screwed it back on from the inside. Then we discovered that the pump had burned out. We were desperate for water and the weekend was approaching so we made the mistake of buying some piece of crap Countryline jet pump that claimed to pump 21GPM but was extremely weak. That thing lasted about 3 months before blowing a ball bearing. So this time we were patient and waited a few days for the pump guy to get the new pump (which turns out to be the same as the original pump-- not the Countryline thing). It says it is 15GPM @1HP but it has better water pressure. It's a Gould pump. Our old one probably would have lasted longer if not for the plumbing leaks and frequent power outages/surges. Anyway, that was off topic... LOL. It was not fun when we went through all the problems, but looking back it is sort of funny that it all happened like that.

On a website question: Why does it say I'm in Kansas? I never picked that as a location and I've never been to Kansas. I know running an IP trace seemed to lead back to Kansas because I have satellite internet.

I really do appreciate all of the responses.

I forgot to mention that I called Lowes and they said they had 4 of the Korky MaxPerformance valves on the shelf. Hopefully we'll be able to pick that up in the afternoon.

suceress
12-12-2012, 07:09 AM
Your question about the lever: there are lots of levers from many manufacturers available online and at your plumbing supply that will work with that Toto; you just need one that is appropriate for the location it is in the tank (i.e. side lever).

And remember that the toilet lever is one of the only reverse-threaded items that you'll find in the house. That is, instead of lefty-loosy, righty-tighty (i.e. clockwise to tighten), you will turn the nut clockwise to LOOSEN the nut holding the handle in place, and counterclockwise to tighten it.

Thanks! I remember that from reading the instructions on the lid, but its good to have a reminder. I'll have to look at side handles when we hit Lowes today. I think I watched a video on how to change out the parts. For some reason actually seeing things done helps me better than having it described.

jadnashua
12-12-2012, 07:17 AM
It would be unusual to have excessive pressure in a home with a well although it is possible. If it was high, you could save a lot of wear and tear and money by lowering it.

suceress
12-12-2012, 04:13 PM
It would be unusual to have excessive pressure in a home with a well although it is possible. If it was high, you could save a lot of wear and tear and money by lowering it.

Thanks. I really don't know what the pressure is or where I would put the gauge to check. I forgot to look for those when I was at Lowes today. They were out of the side handles with metal rods and I refuse to get those flimsy plastic ones. I wish there was a way to attach a different lever to the existing metal rod from the thing that broke. Lowes seemed to be out of a lot of stuff today. It seems they were going through some change in inventory and a lot of displays were not up. At least I did get the MaxPerformance valve though. I actually had to explain to the clerk that the one in the kit was not the same valve and showed him the difference. I hope it won't be difficult to remove the old one and put the new one in. Right now the bathroom is occupied so I will have to wait until it is vacated before I can work on it. I'll try to post pictures if I can remember.

Ok, I may sound dumb, but is there a video that shows how to change out the default flush valve and install the Korky MaxPerformance? I saw the little diagrams and read the instructions, but I always do better when I can actually watch something being done.

jadnashua
12-12-2012, 05:01 PM
I'm not sure I've seen a video, but it's really pretty simple. Often, you may not even need any tools - it depends on how strong your fingers are. The most time consuming thing is probably sponging out the water so it doesn't all drain out the hole when you take the old valve out. Make sure to have the valve rotated so that nothing rubs and the chain to the flapper valve doesn't get caught up on things. You don't even need to put the locking tab back in unless you want to. Make sure to use the clip for the hose.

suceress
12-12-2012, 07:43 PM
I'm not sure I've seen a video, but it's really pretty simple. Often, you may not even need any tools - it depends on how strong your fingers are. The most time consuming thing is probably sponging out the water so it doesn't all drain out the hole when you take the old valve out. Make sure to have the valve rotated so that nothing rubs and the chain to the flapper valve doesn't get caught up on things. You don't even need to put the locking tab back in unless you want to. Make sure to use the clip for the hose.

Ok. Even dumber question here because my brain is just frazzled today: Will I need to remove the tank from the toilet to install the new valve? I watched the video on servicing the valve and it didn't show that being done, but I'm getting the idea from the diagrams that I may have to do that. (Maybe its wishful thinking on my part that it won't be necessary so I want to make sure).

jadnashua
12-12-2012, 08:45 PM
Generally, no, you do not need to remove the tank. Look at where the water supply hose goes to the bottom of the tank. You unscrew that (after turning the water off!), then there's a nut that holds the valve in place - you remove that, and the whole thing lifts out from inside. Course, you want to have drained the tank first. Then, the new one goes through the hole, you tighten the nut up, reattach the supply hose (it's not a bad idea to change that unless it is nearly new), adjust the valve so the fill height is correct, and you're close to done, On the volume adjustable one, you need to balance the tank/bowl fill so when the tank is full, the bowl just became full. The instructions cover it pretty well.

wjcandee
12-12-2012, 10:56 PM
Here's the video on how to install the 528 MaxPerformance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Gw7HvHtaA84


You won't need to remove the tank.

The problem with the Fluidmaster refill adjuster is that it's a slide thing on the hose. It doesn't stay in place firmly and it is, in my view, more challenging to adjust than the Korky refill valve, which you turn.

The Fluidmaster vs. Korky is an age-old debate. If you're a homeowner, I think the Korky is far easier to install yourself, is quieter, is easy to adjust, shuts off smoothly, and otherwise does a fine job. I now have them on 6 of my 7 toilets, and a Korky will go on the seventh one when the Voreto valve that came on the Toto Carlysle II finally starts acting up.

The official Toto Universal Replacement Fill Valve (TSU99A.X) is made for them by Korky, and is basically a 528MP with a few tools to adjust it to Toto factory specs.

suceress
12-13-2012, 09:37 AM
Thank you guys so much! I feel like an idiot because I didn't try to just take apart the old flush assembly first (I was afraid I would break something so I wanted a replacement before messing with it). While I was waiting for a reply to this thread I went and took it apart. I found that after removing the cover and the float part (or whatever it is that moves up when the water line hits it) the thing that only turns 1/8 or whatever turn in the first video needs to be turned more before it unlocks. I was stuck on that part until I just decided to try turning it more. I don't have strong fingers so I gently used a wrench. I had to use pliers to pull out the thing inside that was supposed to be white. Man, that thing was absolutely disgusting and full of some sort of debris. Metal buildup from the water or something. Not sure. But I took everything out and cleaned them as best as I could. The black marks wouldn't come off of the red washer inside (or whatever that thing is) but it still looked to be fine. I think the gunk on the white thing was the problem. I put everything back together and it worked just fine. I did have to replace the flapper. I examined the old one more closely and noticed it was starting to change shape just a tiny bit on the ends. I also took the lever off of an as yet uninstalled Toto (still need to finish some floor installation and other stuff in that bathroom before it is ready) and used it to replace the broken one. It is a shame that piece of plastic in the lever is so flimsy. I wish I had been able to find just that piece and I could have replaced it instead. Meanwhile, I have an adjustable toilet lever that I put on the other tank. It matches the porcelain and chrome theme for that bathroom.

I'm going to bookmark this and download the video for when I do need to change out the flush valve eventually.

I'm not a terribly coordinated person so I'm amazed I finished this with only a little blood (scraped my knuckles on the tank trying to pull some things apart). So I'm proud of myself. I think it is inspiring me to work on more projects.

Again, thank you for all of the replies!

Terry
12-13-2012, 09:54 AM
I'm glad you got this one knocked out. Jamie has walked women through the process of checking the assembly cap on the 528 over the phone, without tools. It should take less then a minute.
Of course, with Seattle water, things come apart easier then in other parts of the country. Most of our water is from snow melt.

wjcandee
12-13-2012, 10:23 AM
I'm not a terribly coordinated person so I'm amazed I finished this with only a little blood (scraped my knuckles on the tank trying to pull some things apart). So I'm proud of myself. I think it is inspiring me to work on more projects.!

This is how you start to get the bug. Happened to me. Congratulations on this project and we look forward to doing more with you in the future!

suceress
12-15-2012, 11:12 AM
I'm glad you got this one knocked out. Jamie has walked women through the process of checking the assembly cap on the 528 over the phone, without tools. It should take less then a minute.
Of course, with Seattle water, things come apart easier then in other parts of the country. Most of our water is from snow melt.
Thanks! The water from my well is very full of sediment. I wish I had taken advantage of the opportunity to clean the holding tank when it was empty but I couldn't get the lid off without disconnecting some electronic components and I did not want to mess with wiring (plus the original pump house collapsed and we built the new one around the well and there isn't much wiggle room). I wish I could find a lid that had a hinge to open up just part of the lid so I could look inside or get inside if need be. One thing I'm sure of is that my water is high in iron. We have several Brita filters to filter the drinking water and we fill some large bottles we got from the dollar store.


This is how you start to get the bug. Happened to me. Congratulations on this project and we look forward to doing more with you in the future!

Thanks! My next project will likely be replacing the cartridges in my Aquasource faucet. I got it 11 years ago but the sediment is rough on plumbing parts here and the cold water lever cartridge deteriorated (for the bathroom sink). I couldn't find a phone number or website so I went to Lowes and looked at the box of a newer faucet to find the contact info. The clerk at Lowes told me that it was a lifetime warranty so we should get the part for free. We called and they are sending two cartridges (just in case) out on Monday.

My mother (I'm sort of her caretaker) also picked up a new tub spout, handles, and shower head for her bathroom. The diverter in the current tub spout is absolutely shot and the handles don't work efficiently. The entire assembly inside the wall is not secured properly, when I was trying to make the water stop dripping by turning the knob the entire assembly pulled forward. She decided to go with a cheap AquaSource thing that was about $49 so I don't know how good it will be, but its her money and its what she wanted. I just do the gruntwork. LOL. I suppose I should head over to the tub and shower section and read some posts.

If all goes as planned, I will hopefully have things fixed by the time my sister comes out to visit.

muddlerminnow
05-09-2013, 09:29 AM
Our unit was installed in 08, it has all original parts, and has worked fine. However, during the last few days we've noticed it is slow in filling and makes a longish "burping" sound, and then a kind of hiss just as it shuts off. Obviously, these are highly subjective terms, but it's the best I can do.

I've gone through most of the posts, and can't find anything that seems to fit. The tank fills to about an inch below the top of the flush valve. The valve itself feels properly seated, though I haven't checked for cracks. There is no sound of leaking water, however. I've pressed down on the flapper to try to make sure there's a good seal while the fill is going on. There's slack in the chain above the "float," but it is taut below.

As for the sound, I saw that you used the term "water hammer" to describe another member's problem. Regarding pressure on the water heater, etc., we did drain the water heater and shut off the water supply to the house for three months during the winter.. Activated everything six weeks ago.

wjcandee
05-09-2013, 04:55 PM
Our unit was installed in 08, it has all original parts, and has worked fine. However, during the last few days we've noticed it is slow in filling and makes a longish "burping" sound, and then a kind of hiss just as it shuts off. Obviously, these are highly subjective terms, but it's the best I can do.

I've gone through most of the posts, and can't find anything that seems to fit. The tank fills to about an inch below the top of the flush valve. The valve itself feels properly seated, though I haven't checked for cracks. There is no sound of leaking water, however. I've pressed down on the flapper to try to make sure there's a good seal while the fill is going on. There's slack in the chain above the "float," but it is taut below.

As for the sound, I saw that you used the term "water hammer" to describe another member's problem. Regarding pressure on the water heater, etc., we did drain the water heater and shut off the water supply to the house for three months during the winter.. Activated everything six weeks ago.

Most likely the problem is with the fill valve in the toilet. You might turn the water all the way off and all the way on there at the wall by the toilet just to make sure that there isn't anything sticking that is causing this (i.e. gunk). Then, it's most likely gunk in the fill valve that is causing your issue, based on the fact that you had drained and refilled your water system.

Easy to fix. Here are the service instructions for the fill valve. It's easier than it looks to service it. On the service instructions in the link below, there are pictures of the Type A and Type B valve, so you can figure out which one came in your toilet. The Type A valve is made by Voreto in China to a Toto design. The Type B valve is made by Korky in the US. They are used by Toto interchangeably. If you need a new fill valve, you can just pick up the Korky 528MP Maxperformance fill valve at any Lowe's and many local hardware stores. (HD doesn't carry it, which is odd, since it's the #1-selling Korky product at Lowe's.) It's the one with the silver cap. Don't get the white-cap one because your toilet requires more refill water than the white one will provide. You just run the 528MP with the little refill adjuster wide open in the old Ultramax and you're perfect. (You'll see what I mean if you get to that point.) Your toilet could also take the Korky 528T "Fits Toto" fill valve, which now seems mostly to be sold at local hardware stores.

Further, if you have a Type B valve, here is the video from Korky on how to service it. The Toto piece is a little more comprehensive, but the video is helpful in seeing how it's done:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syJY4o90prI

If servicing the valve doesn't fix the problem, and you have the Korky Type B valve, you can just replace that little cap with a new one from Home Depot for like $4. It's Korky Part No. R528. If there are big indentations in the rubber when you take the cap off to rinse it and it's not smooth like in the video, it's probably time to replace it. NOTE: Amazingly, and reprehensibly, Lowe's seems to have stopped carrying the R528 Cap, but HD still has it, as do many local hardware stores and plumbing supply places, But really, now, Lowe's. That sucks.

This is a fun, easy project that you really can't do wrong.

If you do end up replacing the fill valve, here's a video by Korky on how to do it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Gw7HvHtaA84

Come back with any questions, and let us know how this turns out for you!

jadnashua
05-09-2013, 05:42 PM
Any time you shut off the water, drain the lines and refill, the inrush of water can dislodge crud that accumulates on the inside of the piping...then, weird things can happen - strainers get clogged, shower heads get plugged, valve seals no longer work perfectly, check valves get stuck. You may just be able to remove, clean, and replace the cap on the fill valve and resolve the problem. But, it is nearly 5-years old and a new cap is less than $3 at Lowes (assuming you have the valve made for Toto by Korky).