Leaking from overflow pipe. T&P relief valve

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rfox

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Hello everyone.

We have the same problem we had a few years ago: a leaking from the overflow pipe on our water heater. It was terrible. Water soaked the carpets. We called a plumber and he replaced it and all was good after that. Then a few days ago the relief valve was pulled, thinking we should do it because we heard we should, and ever since then the water has not stopped! We thought shutting the water and then draining it all would help but no, it didnt.

So, we ordered a new relief valve and are about to follow the water heater instuctions on draining the thing once we get the valve.

Does this sound right? Will replacing the valve help, and is it correct to open the darn thing yearly or not?

Thanks,
Raquel
 

Plumber1

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One mans opinion......

My experience says to leave the darn thing. Your just asking to replace the relief valve.

And don't drain the blessed tank on general principals.

Here you are asking for trouble with the drain valve. If you just feel that you have to do something, have back up valves before you start.

I know, I've read what the gas co. and the Edison co said 40 years ago and I went through that exercise for a while, till I realized that it's a waste of time and money.

I'm speaking from my 45 years of experience in a general area of about 30 to 40 miles wide. Be it a variety of well waters or City of Detroit water.

As far as the popping noise when the heater comes on, it's usually a waste of time. I've drained, flushed and brushed the inside and taken the rod out and in no time the noise is back.

Replace the valve and put it back on line. Unless there is a problem with the heating element or burner assembly, you should be ok.
 

Jimbo

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If your carpet gets wet when the TP leaks, then your WH is not installed per the code which governs MOST areas these days. The relief needs to be piped into an approved drain, or piped to the outside of the dwelling. Since your carpet is in jeopardy, I would get this fixed whether your inspector requires it or not.
 

rfox

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Yep, the guys just left the pipe hanging and we had to go ourselves, after the relief valve broke, and get a tube to connect the pipe to a drain.

Currently, the water had been leaking slowly, in a way that it didnt go into the drain but rather wicked itself back along the hose (seems the floor slopes toward our living room) and soaked everything AGAIN. I opened the valve to get the water flowing faster again though.

BTW, the water heater is in our lanudry room, right off our living room. Nice, huh?

To straighten things up a bit...the first time the valve blew we hadnt done a thing to the water heater except look at it once in a while. Then it got fixed. Now, a few years later, we think, 'maybe we should pull the relief valve'. Now it leaks.

So you're saying we should not have touched anything? But we did and now it wont stop.
 
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Plumber1

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Another thing that can cause a relief valve to weaken is when laundry is being done. Incoming water is cycled off so abruptly that it impacts the spring load in the relief valve to the point that it becomes weakened.

You need to take the relief valve the shortest distance, but to a drain and keep it above the overflow point of that drain.
 
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