View Full Version : Briggs tank replacement

01-05-2006, 02:50 PM

My first post here. I have a briggs toilet that developed a hairline crack along side the tank. I figured I could just replace the tank. I tried Lowes and Home Depot but neither carried Briggs toilets. The associate there said I might have to replace the whole thing because just replacing the tank may lead to leaks. I don't know how to find the model # of the toilet but it looks fairly generic in shape and size, but what do I know. Anyways, is it true that I would need to replace the bowl as well? I tried to locate Briggs tanks on the web with absolutely zero results and that was going through the official Briggs website.

Thanks for reading,


01-05-2006, 03:18 PM
It may be hard to find a compatible tank unless it is a fairly new toilet. If you could find an exact match, it shouldn't be a problem. You probably would want to use new washers and seals, though, and those might be hard to find as well (unless the model is still being made). While you are at it, replace the supply line and the guts, those should only add maybe $10, and why put the old stuff back in. Last, though, repair parts are often pretty expensive, and it may just make more sense to replace it with a new one...lots of people here, including myself, like the Toto brand - the largest toilet manufacturer in the world (they have a US factory in Georgia, along with numerous places around the world).

01-05-2006, 03:30 PM
Please post the tank number,cast into the inside of the tank.Should be a four digit number "4xxx" with possibly a letter for the color.

01-05-2006, 03:45 PM
The number I found was 4430 also said Briggs Proflo.

01-05-2006, 04:32 PM
4430 is the current model tank.You should be able to buy one at the Briggs distributor.
Find distributor here:


01-05-2006, 04:55 PM

i too have a crack on my briggs tank. i was unsuccessful in finding any info on briggs website.

i appreciate any help you can provide.

briggs tank: 4930-c

01-05-2006, 05:27 PM
The 4930 tank is obsolete.It was a 3.5 gallon flush.The current 4430 tank is 1.6 gallon flush and though it would likely fit,it will not flush correctly with the old style bowl.This has been verified by someone who tried it against my advice.
Not much alternative except to buy a whole new toilet.

01-05-2006, 06:34 PM
thanks for the prompt response lancaster

you confirmed my worst case scenario. how do i determine the rough-in size without removing my old toilet?

also, is the toto ultramax still the best option for the money?

01-05-2006, 06:53 PM
Measure from the actual wall surface to the center of the rear bolts holding it to the floor. If it is more than about 11 1/2" you can use a conventional 12" rough unit.

01-14-2006, 02:23 PM
thanks for explaining how to measure the rough-in.

anyone interested in a white briggs tank cover?


04-10-2008, 09:58 PM

I've got a Briggs 1.6gpf elongated toilet that is missing it's tank cover. I would appreciate any help in identifying the model and locating a replacement tank (or just the tank cover). The only other identification does not fit with what is described on this thread - "FFR 5 1986" upside-down on the inside back wall.


04-11-2008, 07:23 AM
Is probably FEB 5 1989 the date it was made. Most areas have a plumbing supply company that accumulates tank lids from cracked tanks. Call around to the various ones and see if they know it there is one in your area. Take the old lid, or a cardboard cutout of the tank's top and use that to find an equal or compatible lid.

04-11-2008, 06:52 PM
I just replaced my Briggs with two Toto Drakes. Damn, what a site. Gets the job done.
Butt, I had a hairline crack when I tightened down the inner bolts of the top tank to the bottom tank.
buy JB weld an metal epoxy.
clean the area where the hairline crack starts and finishes, and go beyond that crack,... use the epoxy and but some on the crack. Install it back on the tank and then hit it with silicone.
Presto Changeo. You are back in business. It will work.
Lets us know what you do.

04-11-2008, 06:53 PM
Check out this google search. I have bought from the first on on the list before myself.


11-03-2010, 01:53 PM
I am replacing the inside components to a Briggs 4930 toilet tank. I shut off the water, drained the tank and found that the bolts that connect the tank to the base are rusted. The first bolt fell apart and was easy to remove. The second bolt would not budge. I could not turn the nut on the outside bottom of the bolt and was able to get in between the base and the tank and sawed the bolt.

I now have the tank off the base but I am unable to remove the bolt stub. On the inside of the tank the head of the bolt was completely rusted and fell apart, the bolt shaft remains in the hole.

I created a little cup out of plumbers putty and have soaked the bolt stub in WD 40, I tried diet coke, and I am currently trying CLR (calcium, lime, rust). The bolt stub still will not budge and I am afraid of cracking the tank. It is a discontinued model and I really donít want to replace the whole toilet at this point.

I think the answer lies in dissolving the rust but I am out of ideas. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do next?

11-06-2010, 07:46 PM
I used to do my own body work on my cars because I couldn't afford to pay anyone, so I used Naval Jelly, which might work; also, you could try a penetrating oil because it will penetrate into the threads. WD 40, won't work because it is not a penetrating oil.

Gary Swart
11-06-2010, 07:58 PM
WD40 is the wrong product to use. The best penetrating fluid for rust is PB Blaster available at most hardware and automotive shops. One might question the wisdom of refurbishing a Briggs toilet, but if that is your desire, then go for it. I won't promise the PB Blaster will solve the problem, but it will be better than WD40.

11-07-2010, 07:14 AM
Put a screwdrive against the bottom of the bolt and gently tap it upwards.

11-07-2010, 08:44 AM
Thank you for your replies. I went ahead and rolled the dice so to speak. I settled the tank upside down on a one inch foam pad with a few layers of cardboard underneath to absorb as much shock as I could and started with a thin metal drill bit and very slowly drilled through and then increased drill bit size until I was able to drill through the bolt.
I know it was risky because one small error and the tank could have cracked very, very easily.

Well onto my next problem.

The large plastic bold on the outside bottom of the tank that holds the flush valve piece will not budge.

It looks like it is glued to the bottom of the tank.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to dissolve the glue or remove the plastic bolt. I am still afraid of using force, I know how delicate the porcelain is.

Thanks all....

11-07-2010, 09:28 AM
Cut the nut in 2-3 places so it will come off in pieces.

11-09-2010, 04:35 PM
I was able to remove the plastic bolt thing on the outside bottom of the tank. I did think of cutting it in half with a saw but I actually tried one last time and tapped it very gently with a hammer and a screwdriver and was able to loosen it.

I replaced all of the guts and the toilet is working fine now, no leaking.

I guess I am once again....... wait for it...... yep..... "flush"!

Thank you everyone for your kind suggestions and for taking the time to reply to my desperate thread.

I guess I'll be back again when I get to the "crappier" part of my re-model.

12-29-2011, 05:38 PM
I didn't want to start a new thread, but I have a Briggs 4930 tank, sawed off the 2 brass bolts since I am replacing
everything inside. I am aware that this tank is obsolete so I would like to know if this tank to bowl assembly
kit will fit, thanks.


Edit:"For American Standard", guess I have to try some local plumbing supply places.

12-30-2011, 09:25 AM
Those are pretty generic parts. You should be okay.
You will find out soon enough though. It either holds or it doesn't. Most standard tank rebuild kits work on almost anything.

12-31-2011, 08:26 AM
I replaced my Briggs 4930 tank parts with standard Fluidmaster toilet tank complete repair kit found at any big box / hardware store. If you have a bad part, I have found it wise to just replace the whole thing. The kits are pretty cheap and built to work together.