View Full Version : This just doesn't look right. What do you think?
09-07-2012, 05:49 PM
My wife and I are finally getting around to the demo on a half bath on the first floor. Wifey disconnected and drained the current toilet while I was at work and sent me this pic.
Her ex installed this half bath and installed the 2 inch tile from Hell AROUND the toilet.
If this is common in some situation, I haven't seen it. Of course, I'm a network tech / web designer, so I could be wrong.
09-07-2012, 05:53 PM
It happens, it's dumb, but good luck finding a toilet that will fully cover the hole. Maybe it's time to put in some new tile! Finding the same tile to fill that area in is unlikely, unless you have some spares stocked away. Can't tell, but is it installed directly on the plywood? Generally, that's not an approved method, either. Well, there is one method, but it requires two layers of ply, properly installed, and a highly modified thinset which you probably don't have there.
09-07-2012, 05:57 PM
We're going to be pulling up the entire floor, pulling down two walls that weren't insulated, and installing a new sink.
09-07-2012, 06:17 PM
So, are you removing the tile? If so, then the only thing you need to deal with is either installing a new flange that will set on top of the new finished floor or using rings to raise the existing flange. If you are not removing the old tile, then there are two ways I would suggest you can consider. Find a toilet that has a large base that will cover the old toilet footprint or fill in the old foot print with a contrasting tile that would appear like it was planned that way. In either case, the flange height would have to be raised as suggested above. The supply line does not come from the wall as it should, but it may not be worth while to relocate it. I would change the shutoff valve to a 1/4 turn in either case. This is not an unusual situation. Usually it is the result of laying a new floor over the old, but the result is the same. You might want to examine the Toto line of toilets, there are several that have a fairly large base that might cover the old footprint.
09-07-2012, 06:29 PM
Actually, we're going to take our time (we're novices) and even remove the sub floor (it has water damage). I want to do this in as standard a way as possible. I'm having someone relocate the supply line. We'll be taking down the wall near it anyway.
09-07-2012, 08:52 PM
If you're new to renovating, you should consider replacing that tiling with sheet vinyl or real linoleum (like Marmoleum or Congoleum).
That's cuz not only is sheet vinyl (or linoleum) one of the most practical floorings for a bathroom, it's about the easiest flooring to install, short of painting the floor with floor paint.
1. Just make a pattern of your bathroom floor out of the wallpaper in the $1/roll bin at your local paint & wallpaper store.
2. Lay the pattern onto your sheet vinyl with the side where the most visible baseboard will be aligned with any pattern on the sheet vinyl so that it doesn't end up looking like the sheet vinyl was installed "crooked". Tape the pattern down and trace the outline of the wallpaper pattern onto the sheet vinyl with a felt pen.
3. Cut out the pattern, place it on your bathroom floor and do any final trimming to improve the fit.
4. Now, place something really quite heavy, like a spouse, on one side of the sheet vinyl to prevent it from moving and pull the other side back to expose the underlayment under it. Spread your glue on the exposed underlayment, wait the recommended time for the glue to get tacky, and then lay that side of the sheet vinyl back into place being careful not to trap any air bubbles under it.
5. Now do an encore performance on the other side, and the bathroom has a new floor.
09-07-2012, 09:59 PM
I concur with the previous poster regarding sheet vinyl flooring. While the previous notes on laying the vinyl are good, I would consider having it professional laid. It's easy to rip vinyl in a small area. Good vinyl is costly and you'd spent more replacing it than the pro would charge. Replace the flange with a good one that has a stainless steel ring. Do not use PVC or ABS here. Keep in mind the flange is to be on top of the finished floor and screwed into the sub floor. I use #12 stainless steel screws of sufficient length to go into or even through the sub floor.
09-07-2012, 10:59 PM
(1) You're moving the wall: which one? The one that the water supply should have been in? If so, then don't you need to move the pipe to which the flange will attach so you have a 12" rough-in from the finished wall? If you're moving the closet bend, then the pipe and flange can be planned to be at the right height. Presumably, a professional would do this work as well.
(2) If you were just going to install a new toilet, I'm not sure what looks so horrible. Yeah, it's below the finished floor, but it doesn't seem like by much. It seems accessible. It has extra crud on it which all needs to be cleaned off so we can see the actual flange, and the slots need to be cleaned out and exposed. But unless I am missing something, it's not exactly unusual to find pretty much this situation. I know that Terry has recommended that one just use two wax rings where the flange is below the finished floor, so it's not an uncommon occurrance and it has an easy fix. What am I missing? (Obviously, one would do it correctly if one were ripping up the floor and the subfloor anyway.) Also, while tiling to the toilet is stupid, wouldn't an elongated Drake or something have a big enough base to cover the tile that is there? (Purely academic as the ex-husband's work is obviously all going in the dumpster. That's gotta be satisfying (and unifying).)