View Full Version : Advice and Help Identifying Mixet Shower Valve Cartridge

12-26-2005, 12:31 AM
Hi Y'all,

Sorry for the long message, but I want to be thorough!

Here's the problem. Master bath and guest bath have the same shower valve. Master bath is currently being renovated. Guest bath is not being renovated but is experiencing shower valve issues. Specifically, the guest bath shower valve at one point completely stopped - no water coming out. After about an hour of figiting, i applied a small amount of downward pressure on the knob and turned the valve on and voila, water flowed. I'm nervous that this is not going to last forever and would like to atleast replace the cartridge - if that is the correct fix.

A few questions.
1) Is replacing the cartridge the right thing to do?
2) Could you help me identify the valve cartridge in this pictures attached? I'm showing full rough in from the master bath (to help in identification), but guest bath is the one with the problem (no reno being done in guest bath, none desired)
3) In master bath - If the valve stops are only partially working (some water is passing through when "shut off") can I still replace the cartridge? I tried to remove the master bath cartridge as a test, but the stop valves don't seem to be doing their job totally, so i didn't bother with the cartridge. It appears that the hot water stop is letting water through, unsure about the cold. Also, hot water stop itself seems to be leaking (water drops come out from around the screw when stop is in shut off position).
4) Guest bath - Should I just cut the fiber glass enclosure around the valve and replace the whole valve? Since master bath stop valves appear not to be working, maybe they won't work in the guest bath either. If so I have to stop the water in my building - I live in a condo - doable but a pain in the butt.

Thanks for you're help yall.


master plumber mark
12-26-2005, 05:35 AM
that is A mix it valve and they are junk

thh cartridge is about a 60 dollar item...

yoou would be a fool not to change out that whole
mess while you got the chance.... just do it.

get a Dleta 1700 faucet for about 125 and change it out

and like cass say ,,,

change out those wimpy flex lines
to the valve too, they wont last much longer either..

12-26-2005, 08:46 AM
You have Mixet brand valve. They were widely used by some builders, but the company is out of business. You can still get basic parts like cartridges, handles, and escutcheons. There are basically two types of cartridges, pre 1968 and post 1968. For the post- there is also a long model EXT stem for cases where tile or such added thickness to the existing finished wall.

Mixet were prone to problems of cross over, and the problem is in the body,not the stem. So replacing the stem did not solve the problem. Google for an aftermarket replacement stem which supposedly solved that problem.

Now that you know all about how to fix Mixets, GET RID OF IT! At least this one where the wall is open, it would be foolish not to put in a new valve at this time, no matter what brand the original. You want to start fresh with something which will last as long as the new wall. Also, the choice of finishes and trims on the Mixet is very limited, and will continue to get worse over time as the population of these valves dies off.


12-26-2005, 12:21 PM
Cass, Master Plumber Mark, Jimbo,

Thank you for your replies. The message is clear. I will definately be replacing the open valve (with a new Danze valve). I'll ask my contractor to redo the plumbing as well to eliminate the flexlines.

However, for the valve currently enclosed in the fiber glass encolsure, do you recommend cutting out a section of the fiber glass to remove the valve without removing the whole enclosure? Then I will have to find a cover plate to cover up the big hole. Taking the whole encloser off and replacing it will get expensive.


12-26-2005, 02:32 PM
Danze is a Brand produced by the Globe Union Industrial Faucet Co. China.

Styling and bells and whistles. Yes. Where will they be in 10 years when you need parts? I prefer Delta and American Standard personally. I like Moen a lot, but their Positemp valve is very problematic in hard water. This problem may not be confined to Moen, of course.

12-26-2005, 06:43 PM
I will also 'pipe up' in saying 'go with a major brand'. Dollar for dollar starting with the best, I will say: Grohe is our favorite then any of the rest: Delta, Kohler, American Standard., Moen and even Price Pfister. Avoid Hansgrohe and the other beautiful European stuff which has very poor part availability.

12-26-2005, 11:13 PM
Good idea to leave it in until there's a problem. The only problem I'm having now is that I find I have to tighten the valve pretty tight (tighter than normal) to stop the dripping. I have a feeling this is not good.

12-31-2005, 05:26 AM
With those flex lines ???? You must be kidding ! Get a Moentrol (push/pull pressure balanced) or a Delta . Why screw around with cheap or the bells and whistles ?!
Grohe & Kohler are nice but they just have WAY TOO MANY parts it's as if the more parts they have just to put the damn things together are going to make them better ? NO they are just more $ to fix !

Moen or Delta ,,,life will be good.

master plumber mark
12-31-2005, 10:53 AM
Its not really all that hard to change out that
other faucet while you are at it..... even through the
front side fibergalss ...

I am doing one next week through the front of the fiberglass
tub and shower unit......

Usually I can change out a Delta faucet through the
plate hole that is already there in the fiberglass, soldering and all...

If I cant change it with out cutting the fiberglass,

DELTA makes a special chrome Escuptioin repair plate

that covers any cutting that I might have to do, up to
about 14 inches across and about 8 inches up and down...

sort of like an foot ball shaped plate that loks pretty good
and is only about $15.00

12-31-2005, 04:55 PM
master plumber mark,

I've seen those plates - looks like a good solution.

A plumber i talked to (showed him the same pictures as attached in 1st post) said that it would extremely hard to replace the valve. I asked him why? I asked him if would make the cuts right next to the valve. He said it would be easy to desolder the flexcopper from the valve instead of cutting - but desoldering doesn't work often. He then said, if he had to cut the flex how would he attach it back to the new valve? I have know clue if this is right or not.

12-31-2005, 08:48 PM
I've not worked with that flex line, but it appears that the ends are formed so that they fit over a standard piece of pipe. If you cut it, there would be no flat area that you could solder it back on. They use flex lines because it was easier to put the valve where they wanted it. Using solid pipe, you have to be more accurate. It would be better if you replace all of the supply pipe with rigid stuff. He should be able to remove the existing valve by desoldering the stuff, but it is a pain to reuse those connections. Timewise (and thus money plus a better job) would be to cut it all out and repipe from the solid supply lines. My unprofessional opinion.