Toto toilets -- keeping dry

In our family, several males (and females) have had trouble getting "wet" with some different Toto models over the years. So, here are the questions: 1) Is there a difference between a Drake and a Drake II/Ultramax II in this regard? Specifically, is there a difference in water bowl height, general "splashup" action when flushing, and/or in the action of the new Cyclone rinse that can cause water to splash up at a person's bottom (or male parts)? Seemingly minor problem, but annoying ! Also, I'm assuming that a Drake II and an Ultramax II are identical as far as this is concerned--am I correct? Thanks so much for your help.

I've used the Ultramax II, the Drake II and the original Drakes and Ultramax. I haven't seen this happen. And I do sit down and flush.

I have seen splash on the CST703 through CST724 series that use a washdown flush. I quit selling those ten years ago.

Personally, I don't flush while I'm still sitting...but, my guess is that the cyclone flush would be more 'ordered'. The original g-max flush works quite well, though, the double cyclone pictures show it to be more efficient, cleans as well or better, and uses less water in the process.

Haven't been splashed while sitting with either the Drake Round, Drake Elongated or Carlyle II. I have an apartment I rent in the city with a hideous 1990s-era AS flat-(lowest)profile one-piece thingy that the architect obviously thought looked cool but which I have plunged daily for years. Inspired by my recent experience replacing three of our house toilets with Totos, I inquired of the apartment-building's management whether I could just buy any Toto that was stylistically-satisfactory to them and have them install it, so that my plunging problem would be over in the city as well as the country. Turns out, they had been replacing the AS garbage with Totos for a few years when the apartments turned over and would be happy to replace mine. However, because the smaller Toto front footprint left visible cement as opposed to tile (another genius move by the architect for not anticipating future toilet replacement), the building stopped using Totos and now uses Gerbers, which apparently cover the cement. I have heard through the grapevine that tenants have complained that the Gerbers have the private-part splash problem. I thought that was a weird complaint, but now here the subject comes up again online just a couple of days later. Hmmm. We will see once it is in and I will report. Maybe that's another factor to include in the Toilet Ratings (although it sounds like none of Terry's recommended toilets have the issue).

PS Toto makes a device that intentionally "splashes water on a person's bottom"...but that's another story.

The footprint varies quite a bit between different Toto models...maybe, if there's one that would cover the flakey tiled job they would accept, and you paid the difference, they may go for it...worth checking rather than taking something with known deficiencies.

ANother possibility is to crack a few tile out and pick something that complements the already installed stuff such that you could then install any toilet properly. The likelyhood of finding matching tile is probably slim.

jadnashua said:

The footprint varies quite a bit between different Toto models...maybe, if there's one that would cover the flakey tiled job they would accept, and you paid the difference, they may go for it...worth checking rather than taking something with known deficiencies.

Another possibility is to crack a few tile out and pick something that complements the already installed stuff such that you could then install any toilet properly. The likelyhood of finding matching tile is probably slim.

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Thanks, Jim, for your good suggestions. The attitude was, "We're more than happy to replace your toilet with what we use now, no problem, and problem solved. Next." They really didn't want to discuss it, I guess because they figure they have a solution and don't want any "help". In a 500-unit building, I'm guessing that they want to have one size fit all as often as possible. The chief mechanical guy told me, nicely, "We haven't had any problems at all with the Gerbers" (I guess he meant with respect to clogging), and seemed more concerned that I understand that the toilet had a normal-size tank and wasn't low-profile. Because I don't know the dimensions of the under-the-AS cement, I don't know what to propose, unless, of course, I can find something that covers everything that the AS covers, which is actually a good idea. If I can do that, I think I have a shot. Otherwise, this particular group is just going to say, "No." Also, a skirted Toto ain't gonna fly, because I know they have no intention of drilling holes for the Unifit into the expensive-looking red marble that they used on the bathroom floors, which probably also explains why they didn't just add sections of tile in the area that was untiled. (FWIW, another stupidity is that this modern building has 14" rough-ins, so there is substantial wasted room behind the toilet in the already-small bathroom; a Unifit could have helped that, but because of the manner in which the bathroom flooring was done, in this case I guess it would just guarantee an additional area of exposed cement.) So unless I can find the perfect footprint for a replacement (and I will try), I will probably end up having to take what they're planning to give me. I do respect, and don't envy, the operating guys in a building that size who have to figure out how to work around the hand that they have been dealt. I just wish I had raised my concern a couple of years earlier when they were installing Totos, which I would have done if I had known that they were so willing to do a replacement. And I should probably be relieved that the new replacement wasn't a Kohler with the Ingenium flush (which I had begun calling the "Stupidium" flush before I finally ripped the thing out and replaced it with a Drake).

Just a couple of days ago a similar question about covering an old toilet's footprint. You can find that thread if you wish, but here's the gist of it. When a tile floor is added as a remodel, frequently rather than tiling all the way to the flange, they will only go as far as necessary for the toilet they are installing. Now, when a new toilet is installed and it has a smaller footprint, it is next to impossible to find a perfectly matching tile. So here was my suggestion. Find a tile that makes a nice contrast. You may want to remove a few of the old tiles to make it look right, but would make it look like the mismatch was intentional. On the other hand, many toilets today have a larger footprint, so the color match wouldn't matter. This use of contrasting colors is a trick used often in repairing damaged woodwork and cabinetry. The key is to make it look intentional.

Gary Swart said:

Just a couple of days ago a similar question about covering an old toilet's footprint. You can find that thread if you wish, but here's the gist of it. When a tile floor is added as a remodel, frequently rather than tiling all the way to the flange, they will only go as far as necessary for the toilet they are installing. Now, when a new toilet is installed and it has a smaller footprint, it is next to impossible to find a perfectly matching tile. So here was my suggestion. Find a tile that makes a nice contrast. You may want to remove a few of the old tiles to make it look right, but would make it look like the mismatch was intentional. On the other hand, many toilets today have a larger footprint, so the color match wouldn't matter. This use of contrasting colors is a trick used often in repairing damaged woodwork and cabinetry. The key is to make it look intentional.

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Thank you, Gary! This is a truly useful suggestion to have in my bag of tricks! Very ingenious.