Reaming and Fluxing - - Back to the Basics

Chefwong · May 11, 2012

I've done both tons of times but was looking up threads for a recommended reaming tool and came across some notes.....I think I'm going to pick up the case harded Ridgid...

In a pinch, I've just use file or utility knife if the cone shaped reamer was not on hand for pvc.
Always have use the built in on the tubing cutter on copper.

For all you pro's out there, do you guys ALWAYS ream pvc or not. Couple pro's on that thread said they never did.......

Now this one has got me really confused. Do you flux both sides or the male fitting only.
I'm guilty of doing both.
There was a blurb on how if fluxing only the male, it prevents overfluxing/over solder which I suppose does make sense in theory

hj · May 11, 2012

I "rub" the PVC and ABS cuts, but do not ream them. You flux BOTH surfaces of the joint, to prevent them from being contaminated after cleaning them. YOU are what prevents "oversolder" not the flux, and the flux is "boiled off" if you heat the joint properly.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Chefwong · May 11, 2012

HJ -

Don't plumb for a living but I'm curious....are you able to get every fitting to bottom out when you just ~rub~ them.

Sometimes these things can be a bear ...to get them to bottom out in a quick fashion. Chamfering the outside helps with allowing the cement to have room when you bottom out no ?

Been using Heavy Duty Cement cause I believe it gives me e extra second or 2 of working time. Small pipes are fine. It' the 4" that are bears

JohnjH2o1 · May 11, 2012

What are you cutting the pipe with? If your using cutters with a wheel that's what is putting a bur on the pipe. Try using a saw.

John

Chefwong · May 11, 2012

I cant' cut dead straight with a saw.....
If and when I do...I end up using the sander to sand down the pitch to make it a straight cut. 40 Grit makes it real fast work ;-)

So yes, Ridgid with PVC blade

JohnjH2o1 · May 11, 2012

Try using a chop saw or a miter saw with a fine tooth carbide blade in backwards. Using the cutters is the reason your having problems.

John

Chefwong · May 11, 2012

Time to get another Beater Saw I suppose:

Got 2 saws in the stash.
A festool dedicated from Trim.
And then my Beater Makita for rough framing.

While we're on the topic of saws, and I DON'T own a snapper...
Whats better for CI pipe. Saw or angle grinder and grit blade ?

JohnjH2o1 · May 11, 2012

When I first started in the business we used a hammer and chisel. A 4" grinder and a diamond cutoff blade works good.

John

BobL43 · May 11, 2012

chefwong said:
HJ -

Don't plumb for a living but I'm curious....are you able to get every fitting to bottom out when you just ~rub~ them.

Sometimes these things can be a bear ...to get them to bottom out in a quick fashion. Chamfering the outside helps with allowing the cement to have room when you bottom out no ?

Been using Heavy Duty Cement cause I believe it gives me e extra second or 2 of working time. Small pipes are fine. It' the 4" that are bears

so now YOU are running a commercial kitchen? With that name, maybe, huh? lol too.

I never had a problem gluing 3 inch PVC with just using a knife to clean up the saw cut on the end. the primer and glue did a great job of softening up the pvc for it to slide in like it was KY jellied. Twist and push, hold for a few seconds so it does not get pushed back out by the slight taper

BobL43 · May 11, 2012

chefwong said:
I cant' cut dead straight with a saw.....
If and when I do...I end up using the sander to sand down the pitch to make it a straight cut. 40 Grit makes it real fast work ;-)

So yes, Ridgid with PVC blade

dead square is very nice to achieve and is what the specs want, but.............

Chefwong · May 11, 2012

I'm a stickler for best practices....
40 grit makes quick work on the PVC to get it dead straight..

And twist and hold works...
When you inspect, maybe with a inspect cam, for best pratices, in a ideal world, I want to see every fitting bottom out.
Well, I did say a Ideal World

BobL43 · May 11, 2012

chefwong said:
I'm a stickler for best practices....
40 grit makes quick work on the PVC to get it dead straight..

And twist and hold works...
When you inspect, maybe with a inspect cam, for best pratices, in a ideal world, I want to see every fitting bottom out.
Well, I did say a Ideal World

When I pay a pro good money to do a job right, I nit pick; when I do something on my own, I sincerely try to give it my best, and it usually comes out accurate and perfect, but when it does not turn out perfect, I'm more forgiving. My wife, however is the final inspector on appearance. I do not work on life support systems, but if I did, I would do stuff that would be checked with a camera, and pass, but as I said, I do not work on life support systems. My work always take safety into strong concern though. The plumbing contrator that did my house way back when, was not a craftsman, and the town building inspector must have never looked at his work or been very well apid off by all the contractors that did my house. Only crew that did good work was the framing carpenters I think. Electrical was OK, but poor circuit designs.

Chefwong · May 11, 2012

John -

U know a thing about CI - iron deposts and concrete.
Or are you going to tell me to call my plumber back ;-)

Plumber used Angle Grinder on some CI work in the backyard.
I guess he was at least smart enough to do that outdoors vesus indoors...
Tons of iron rust bloommm turned up
I tried cleaning with Oxalic Acid and my pressure washer.
No dice.

I'm going to reattempt again this spring/summer whenever my long list of to-dos allow

Cacher_Chick · May 11, 2012

If you don't need it often, most tool rental places rent the snap cutter for a few bucks an hour.

I've cut a lot of PVC with my Delta Miter saw with a regular framing blade. I've always beveled the edge with a razor knife, but it's the most time consuming step of the process.

I bought a carbide hand reamer for copper, but I'm not particularly fond of it.

Chefwong · May 12, 2012

I wanted to A/B the purpose of reaming.....so I cut 2 stubs out.
With a reamed piece, the pipe when dry fit will almost bottom out.
With a non reamed piece, it definitely fit's less into the fitting when dry fitting.
Granted, it's a tapered fit, and if not tapered, isn't it pushing all the cement on the most inner of the fitting ?

Maybe the pro's use some extra melting pookey that allows them to get it to bottom out and melts the pvc more..

Alright, back onto some weekend warrior work..

hj · May 12, 2012

quote; the pipe when dry fit will almost bottom out.

THAT is your problem. WE measure the pipe accurately, then install it. IF we "dry fit" everything we would never get the job done, at least not for a price a customer could afford, because they pay us by the hour.

Chefwong · May 12, 2012

Misreading me HJ.

I know the book calls for it to be reamed...not rubbed.
And I wanted to test/compare the difference and see for myself does it really make a difference.
Unless my rudimentry dry fit test is wrong, the bevel is to allow the cement to properly sit inside the tightest portion of the taper versus having a non reamed pipe push out the cement when it' pipe/pipe at the tightest point of the fitting.

Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber ;-)

JohnjH2o1 · May 12, 2012

I guess we talked this one to death.

John

BobL43 · May 12, 2012

chefwong said:
Misreading me HJ.

I know the book calls for it to be reamed...not rubbed.
And I wanted to test/compare the difference and see for myself does it really make a difference.
Unless my rudimentry dry fit test is wrong, the bevel is to allow the cement to properly sit inside the tightest portion of the taper versus having a non reamed pipe push out the cement when it' pipe/pipe at the tightest point of the fitting.

Disclaimer: I'm not a plumber ;-)

Where is my popcorn when I need it most?

Dlarrivee · May 12, 2012

I don't understand why people must debate things like this, if we say you shouldn't dry fit, leave it at that.

Reaming and Fluxing - - Back to the Basics

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