Thank you so much for your advice, yes we do have the pro plumber came to our home and measure our home. We have around 2000 sqf of living space, he told us should need around 80,000 BTU. The old one we have, it is 2x oversize for what we need. I heard lot of plumber talk about the Burderus GB 142 have problem with electrical. It is scare me of to install them ... I try to search customer review about Htp Elite Ft 80, but I have no result because this is new produce just came out 3 months ago. I'm not sure how is it work?!?...
Thanks again for your advice.
Kate Kelly
I have ~20% more living space in a mostly 1-story circa 1923 bungalow, and it needs less 40KBTU/hour of boiler output to say warm, in a locatoin, with an outside design temp a couple degrees cooler than Dover NH. With an 80K boiler I'd be good down to about -65 to -70F, a temp that I'm sure we've seen here (if not very often since the last ice age.

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A 40BTU/foot house in Dover would be a ridiculously sub-code house with almost no insulation, lots of drafts and air leaks, and mostly single-pane windows. Look around- if that's what you have, spending the money on tightening up and insulating the place will be more cost-effective than spending it on a condensing boiler, and provide more comfort too.
The modulating boiler with the lowest
minimum-fire will run more efficiently, with fewer burn cycles and last longer than a bigger boiler. The HTP Elite Ft
55 would probably be more appropriate than the -
80, with a min-fire input of 13KBTU/hr rather than 17KBTU/hr for the -80.
The smallest Buderus GB142 is the -24, with a min-fire output of about 25KBTU/hr in condensing mode, 23K in non-condensing, either of which is more than half my design condition load. It's great boiler, but not an optimal choice for my house- there are several boilers out there with lower min-fire output (eg, Triangle Tube Solo-60, Peerless Pinnacle T50.)
If you have any wintertime gas bill with the fuel use and meter reading dates by which it can be correlated to weather data, it's pretty easy to put an upper bound on how big it needs to be. I'd be surprised if you need anything as big as either of those boilers, and smaller is better for efficiency, comfort, and long-term reliability. But it's fairly simple arithmetic to turn therms per heating degree-day into BTU/hour at design temp, if you're able to share some of the billing information (and your zip code, to be able to use the nearest and most accurate weather station data.)