View Full Version : 1 Piece 1.28g Toilet for a 10 3/4 in Rough-in?
04-14-2012, 10:59 PM
I currently have 2- 1967 5.5 gal round toilets on tile that I'd like to replace with 1.28 gal 1-piece elongated ones, but the rough-in distance from the wall to the center of the bolts is 10 3/4" and 10 7/8". Are there any good 1 piece toilets with a 12in rough-in that will work?
The tank lids currently touch the wall and I would like to have the new ones only 1/4 to 1/2 away because it looks nicer and they are small bathrooms. I was looking at the Ultramax II 1.28g and the Cadet 3 compact elongated 1.28 , but it doesn't seem they would fit with the short rough-in. I don't think those even come in 10in rough in. It's hard to find good 10in 1-piece.
Is it possible to get a flange adapter so that a 12in rough-in toilet will fit?
I'd like to have a very good 1-piece elongated toilet that will be close to the wall, without changing the drain plumbing in the floor or floor inlet that's about 8in from center.
04-15-2012, 12:25 AM
You have a problem because of the 10" rough-in. It is true that most 12" rough-in toilets will work on less than 12", but not as little as you have. The only low profile Toto toilets that will fit are the Pacifica and Dorian. Both of these use the Unifit adapter. The Unifit adapter will not work on toilets that are not specifically designed for them. Either of these two models would be excellent choice, but they are 1.6 gpf, not 1.28. You can read the details on these toilets on the Toilet Review linked at the top of this page. Click Review, then Shopping, then Toto to get to the list and specs on Toto toilets. I'm afraid your requirement list is too restrictive for many toilets, but if you could live without the 1.28 gpf, the two models mentioned will work quite well for you. Choices with 10" rough-ins are very limited as well, there is little demand for them, so not many are made. Toto is the only manufacturer with an adapter. The toilet that use the adapter come standard with a 12" adapter. The 10" and 14" are about $40 additional and you have to keep the 12". Again, these adapter only work on those models designed for them and those models must use the adapter. Hope this late night rambling makes some sense and will be of help.
04-15-2012, 07:24 AM
Gary pretty well summed it up. You can't expect to find just the right ticket for your improper rough in. You will use a 10" rough, and have a little space between the tank and wall. Not a big deal. Your criteria have narrowed your selections down to a very small number.
You ARE measuring the rough all the way to the WALL, not the baseboard, right??
04-15-2012, 09:17 AM
Thanks guys, that's what I was afraid of.
There's no baseboards in the bathrooms so it's to the walls.
It seems this house was put together all non-standard and it was only 1967. Every little project turns into a bigger project. Were 12in rough-in toilets made a little different when they were 5.5 gal so that they would fit into 10 3/4"?
I am trying to save money on my water bill, of course any upgrade from 5.5 gal would help a lot, But I figured if I was going through the trouble I might as well go to 1.28 gal and a 1-piece elongated which is much nicer...
I wonder if it is a 4in pipe in the floor? Would that somehow allow a 12in rough-in to fit? I really like the Ultramax II.
It's too bad there's not many 1-piece with 10in rough-in. I'll take a look at the specs on the Pacifica and Dorian.
04-15-2012, 09:33 AM
Oh boy, I guess The Pacifica and Dorian won't work either because my water supply is out of the floor 8in away and those are skirted toilets.
I really would like to spend less than $550 anyway. I'll have to start looking at the 2-piece toilets that come in 10-in rough-in.
04-15-2012, 10:23 AM
I thought there were flange adapters to convert different rough-ins so that you could use 12 in rough-in toilet with an 11 or even a 10in rough-in?
Do these not work well for some reason because that would be the easiest solution?
04-15-2012, 11:57 AM
The horn on the bottom of the bowl is 2-5/8"
Shifting the bowl over a 4" drain allows you to offset 1-3/8", assuming you also move the bolt locations. We sometimes use a metal repair ring attached to the floor to shift bolt location. Add 1-3/8" to 10-3/4" and you have 12-1/8".
That would leave something like 5/8" to 1" behind the tank.
If you have a 4x3 drain, you lose some of that though. That only works on a full 4" drain.
If you have a 4x3 drain, you could still install a 12" rough TOTO Drake easy enough. They normally allow 1-1/8" behind the tank. Even a little shifting of bolt location would increase room behind the tank.
The one-piece toilets need about 3/4" behind the tank.
Using a skirted bowl to move things in 2" increments is also an option, depending on water supply location. If water comes through the floor, then it needs to miss the bowl, which is pretty wide at the floor.
04-15-2012, 01:39 PM
Hmm... It sounds like the Drake 1.6 and Eco Drake 1.28 (744 models) would come within an 1/8 or 1/4 in of my 10-3/4 rough-in because of the 1-1/8" gap behind them as you mentioned. It would be cutting it very close though. Hope they will fit. How do the E-max, G-max and Double cyclone compare? I don't want to double flush. Is the E-max as good at cleaning the bowl?
The other choice is one of the few 1-piece or 2-piece 10 in rough-ins but that would leave 2 inches behind them. It's too bad they don't make the Ultramax in a 10 in rough-in. All they would have to do is make a narrower tank.
The skirted probably might work with one of my locations, but one has the water supply in the floor 8in from center, the other is on the wall so I'll check it.
You've certainly given me some options to think about,
04-15-2012, 01:50 PM
The Drake II needs an 11-1/2" rough
The Drake can use an 10-7/8" rough
04-15-2012, 07:42 PM
This may or may not be another option. If you could change the rough-in to a standard size, the world of toilets would open wide for you. Of course, the reason for the short rough-in may very well be the location of the floor joists so this may not be a practical option for you. As far as the location of the water supply, this should not be difficult to change. As far as making 10" rough-in toilets more plentiful, you have to realize that the law of supply and demand is in effect here. Most rough-ins are 12", very few are 10". Factories are not going to make a lot of products that are not in demand and even if they did, dealers wouldn't stock them. For the few with 10" requirements, that's not much satisfaction, but that's business.
04-15-2012, 08:34 PM
I had considered changing the rough-in, but don't have easy access to see if it is a joist issue and I was going to originally switch out the toilets myself, but if I have to switch out the rough-in I'd get a plumber. I'll try to check for the joist location with a stud sensor, but that may not work. The supply would be a pain because it comes through a small 1" tiled floor and the walls are tiled too so access becomes problematic. Maybe I'll pull the toilet to see what's under it.
I definitely agree I'd rather have the rough-in between 11-1/4 to 12 inches so that I could get a great selection of 1-piece toilets. There are some 2-piece like the Drake that might fit the 10-3/4 and Some of the champion 4 toilets would fit too because they have 2 inches behind them, but I'd rather use a Toto.