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View Full Version : Toto Neorest 600 DIY install



rhirwin
04-12-2012, 07:22 PM
First and foremost: You have GREAT pricing on the Toto Neorest 600!! and if I did not live in PHX, AZ your price to install one of these is excellent value.

Now to my stupid DIY questions-

(1) No where in the Neorest 600 install manual does it show to install a wax ring btwn outlet connection and closet flange- but it does require one -correct??

(2) I measured the flow rate which the manual states is 1.5 gals in 10 secs and it comes close ~1.3 gals. Close enough or is this a killing issue?

Thanks for the advise and best regards,
Roger

http://www.terrylove.com/wc/toto/neo_600_unboxed.jpg

Terry
04-13-2012, 09:53 AM
It uses waster from the wall, and has it's own supplies shutoff valve. The flex connector is about 3/4" in diameter, connected to a full 1/2" pipe in the wall.
Have you measured the water without putting it through a tiny 3/8" supply line?

http://www.terrylove.com/wc/toto/neorest_stop.jpg

rhirwin
04-13-2012, 02:29 PM
I measured it on the same 1/2" copper line as the toilet, but through a garden faucet bibb valve, so the flow was not limited by a 3/8" riser. There certainly can be some restriction with the garden faucet bibb although its a ball type of shut-off so fairly unrestrictive. For the sake of clarity, the 1/2" line tees off to the outside garden faucet and to the toilet inlet.

The static city water pressure measures 48 psi.

If worse comes to worse I can put a whole-house pressure booster on the city water supply line and set it for ~65 psi but then this job gets bigger and more $$$$$

rhirwin
04-16-2012, 05:17 PM
Here's the lessons learned:

1) Actual centerline for closet flange to drywall was 11.5" a bit too close since the cad drawings show 0.69" gap btwn wall and Neorest with the closet flange being at a nominal 12". I split the difference and offset the plastic connector to closet flange 0.25" further away from wall then the real centerline of the closet flange. This seems to have worked fine.

2) I rerouted the toilet water inlet to follow the Toto specs vs. having the inlet to close and repositioning the inlet shutoff valve at 10am vs. the 3pm position. If I had it to do over again I would have left it as is. For the effort vs. aesthetics it was not worth the time and trouble. If you decide to reroute it. I found a 1/2" Cu sweat to 1/2" elbow with ears that allows you to anchor the elbow and really snug up on the 1/2" chrome nipple supplied with the shut-off.

3) Installed a GFCI outlet with a built-in night light - very nice. Facing the toilet, 17" to the right of center and 12" from the floor -just perfect.

4) Very skeptical about the SS threaded screws to bolt the Toto subassembly and front brackets to the floor. With a 1/8" predrilled bit there was NO WAY these would thread into the concrete subfloor. I opted for using 3/16" x 2 1/2" Tapcon concrete screws after pre drilling with a 5/32" bit. For the floor drilling task, my battery operated 1/4" drill just did not have the muscle and I needed to purchase a Makita hammer drill ($99).

Best regards,
rhirwin

jadnashua
04-16-2012, 05:20 PM
Think you'll find the screws are intended for installation on a wooden subfloor, not a concrete slab. Now, if you drilled a larger hole and used an insert, they would work.