Replacing Kitchen Faucet

DonL

DonL

Jack of all trades Master of one
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My better half brought home a Moen CA87000SRS and said to install this please.

The water lines are solid copper. Would it be best to replace the water lines with flex Braided lines ?

And would it be best to remove the sink to replace the faucet, Or stand on my head to replace it ?

I was going to turn off the water to the house, because I have seen to many times that the water shutoffs under the sink may leak if I start jacking with them. Or maybe I am doing something wrong ?


I am no plumper, Maybe if you are, then you can get a good laugh at my silly ass questions.


Thanks, for any help that you can provide me. I want to do it correct the first time.


Have a Great Day.


DonL
 
You won't be able to reuse the solid copper risers.
You can either buy new solid risers, and new compression sleeves for the shutoff end, or pick up some new flexible supply lines.
The braided lines come with seals at both ends. No tape is needed there. If your shutoffs are older then 20 years, you may want to replace them. Or you might get lucky and snugging up the large bonnet nut around the stem may stop the drip. I like to open them all the way, and then rotate them in just a bit, so that they aren't backed up against the stop. That way the next person to turn them can move it left or right without breaking something.

moen_faucet_install.jpg
 
Thanks Terry.

Good info.

I thought the red a blue rings for the knobs was a joke.

Why would you need such of a thing ?
 
Her "handedness" is immaterial. If the hot is on the left and you mark it cold, it will still be hot, and she will not be happy. As Abraham Lincoln once said, "If I call a donkey's tail a foot, he will still only have four feet." As to the original question, about the WORSE thing you can do to change the faucet would be to remove the sink, assuming YOU could do it.
 
hj said:
Her "handedness" is immaterial. If the hot is on the left and you mark it cold, it will still be hot, and she will not be happy. As Abraham Lincoln once said, "If I call a donkey's tail a foot, he will still only have four feet." As to the original question, about the WORSE thing you can do to change the faucet would be to remove the sink, assuming YOU could do it.
Click to expand...

I did not know if I could get the old faucet out without removing the sink. I have had the sink out before.

The sink is pretty deep and not much room at the back to work in.

I am going to get some new flex hoses so that will be 2 connection that I don't have to disconnect on the old Faucet to get it out.
 
Usually, taking the sink out is quite a chore...all the pipes, etc! But removing and installing a faucet is certainly a lot easier that way! Most plumbers are used to laying on their back , looking up to an area they can barely get one hand to, and crud falling down in their eyes! Enjoy!
 
Is there any Best Brand Flex hoses to buy ? Or ones to avoid ?

I would like to get good ones if possible.
 
DonL said:
My better half brought home a Moen CA87000SRS and said to install this please.

The water lines are solid copper. Would it be best to replace the water lines with flex Braided lines ?

And would it be best to remove the sink to replace the faucet, Or stand on my head to replace it ?

I was going to turn off the water to the house, because I have seen to many times that the water shutoffs under the sink may leak if I start jacking with them. Or maybe I am doing something wrong ?


I am no plumper, Maybe if you are, then you can get a good laugh at my silly ass questions.


Thanks, for any help that you can provide me. I want to do it correct the first time.


Have a Great Day.


DonL
Click to expand...


Hey Don,

you are lucky! look at the faucet I installed in a pedestal sink the other day. Each part was seperate and the 2 valves had to be connected each with its seperate flex line to the center faucet. Not much room for wrenching around in a pedestal sink either. Fortunately I installed the (first, LOL) faucet in the sink before mounting it, but it leaked, and when Kraus sent me a replacement, I did not have a lot of fun doing it with the sink mounted to the wall and on top of the pedestal. I flexed joints in my body I had forgotten about. Almost had to stand on my head. I bought a new set of Crow foot adapter wrenches that included a 24 MM wrench, as a 15/16 was a little too big and a 7/8 was too small (for the hose ends). I thought that these hoses had American inch- sized ends?? Anyway, I wound up using a very old pair of gas pump pliers that fit in there and grabbed the hoses, where all my channel locks and open end wrenches had no swing room. My thread: search for Kraus

I suggest you remove the sink if its not too big a deal. What type of sink and kitchen countertop surface you got? I see the sketches Terry posted show your faucet is a one piece above deck faucet, which is a big plus these days. Hmm, where've I seen that Butt crack before?:rolleyes:
 
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A good basin wrench can make all the difference when trying to install or remove a faucet on a sink. If you've never heard or seen one, check them out.
 

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jadnashua said:
A good basin wrench can make all the difference when trying to install or remove a faucet on a sink. If you've never heard or seen one, check them out.
Click to expand...
I HAVE a good basin wrench; it would not fit/work on 2 of the horizontal hose connections on my faucet. Did you look at the pictures I posted? The picture you posted here looks like Texas with the wide open spaces. Mine was more like a rat's nest in NYC!

https://terrylove.com/forums/showth...o-Promenade-Pedestal-Lavatory&highlight=kraus

It's all recessed in that tight area. Basin wrench worked OK on others, but that old gas pump pliers was able to fit in there and get enoug swing to tighten up the hoses. The first faucet that I installed, like I said, was before the sink was mounted and it made it a lot easier, but not "easy". Replacement faucet mfr sent me, I did in place. I ALMOST took the sink down after lots of cursing, but I got er done.

Glad its done, for sure
 
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Terry's pics and info is spot on, I've installed the spittin' image of that kitchen faucet in at least 3 or 4 homes.

Most valve leaks around the stem can be fixed by tightening the packing gland/bonnet nut. However at some stage after enough cycles or age the packing is so compressed that it won't seal anymore, or there has been a slow leak etc.

The one warning I will add about braided lines is to make sure you don't twist kink/them near the fitting when tightening. I did that re-using one once in a tight fit. It was binding and twisted the braiding. I should have just replaced it, but I didn't want to go back to the hardware store a 3rd time that day... Big mistake, I was awakened early in the morning less than 24 hours later to my wife telling me that we had several inches of water in the kitchen, and a lovely fountain under the sink. Can't blame anyone but myself as I saw the problem and went on anyway. My guess is that city main pressure peaked in the AM, rupturing the weakened line at the twist.

Be glad you've got shut offs, in some older homes I've lived in there weren't any--and the city valve was so stiff that it nearly broke the curb key turning it the first time.
 
hj said:
This person is asking about a KITCHEN faucet so any talk about pedestal lavs is irrelevent.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that out HJ. I was trying to cheeer him up, I think. I got carried away and digressed, sorry.

It's all OK , sometimes I'm a grouchy old man too:p
 
I got my Stainless Steel Braided hoses yesterday.

Now I have to decide if I should remove the sink or not.

Or call my plumber helper, and put a $20 in her Strap to get her started. And Forget the Faucet.
 
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