Steam Pipe Removal

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stevebumbar

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Hello Good People,

I am trying to remove a steam pipe in my basement (energy costs are killing, so I am gonna try to do it myself). It's about 2' long with an elbow at one end and simple connector at the other.

Now, the pipe is very old and rusty. I need to replace it, but it seems like its corroded onto the elbow and connector. I afraid that I cannot budge it. Is there anything I can do to loosen it? Does anyone have any solid adivce about this?

I appreciate any help.

Steve'o.
 

Jadnashua

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When you say simple connector, if it is not a union, you can't just unscrew the pipe, as even if you can crack that old thread loose, on one end, you'd be loosening it on one end while trying to tighten on the other! I think (and I'm not a pro), you'd have to saw it in the middle, maybe take a chunk out by making two cuts. Then, you could unscrew it separately from each end. To put it back together, you'd need two shorter pieces with a union connecting them back together.

Threaded pipe is installed from one end to the other...trying to take a piece out of the middle usually can't be done by simply unscrewing that piece.

If you can unscrew the pieces, you'd probably need two very large pipe wrenches, maybe even with a pipe to extend the handle. One to hold the joint so you don't torque it and mess things downstream up, and the second one to turn the pipe.
 

Dubldare

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Heat.

Heating of the stubborn fitting will help in removing the old pipe. The goal is to try to cause the fitting to expand enough so the pipe can be removed, while keeping the heat away from the pipe's threads.

Additionally, if that pipe is in such poor condition, using a chain wrench would be far superior to a pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches have a bad tendency to warp the pipe you're trying to remove.
 

Mike Swearingen

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There are a number of different things to try when breaking loose old steel pipe fittings, some already noted.
First, as mentioned, cut through the pipe section to be removed in two places with a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade (or a cutting torch) to remove more than enough to back the threads out. Each end will have to be turned out counter-clockwise.
You can soak the threads overnight with a solvent, such as WD-40; you can heat the fittings with a torch (best); you can tap ("beat") on the side of the pipe with a hammer; and you can "tighten" the pipe first to help break the threads loose, and then back it out; and you can use a cheater pipe on the handle of the turning wrench with a backup wrench on the fitting (or a combination of these).
We always used to use the "heat and beat" method in the East Texas oil field back in the days when I was a roustabout for an oil pipeliine company in college a couple of summers.
Wrap the threads of the new pipe sections with 3 wraps of teflon tape wrapped flat on the threads clockwise only as the threaded ends face you (or you can use pipe dope made for the purpose). Tighten the pipe sections into the end fittings clockwise and the install the union in the middle. Make certain that the union is "square" and straight so that it makes up properly, or it may leak.
I would use a cheater pipe and a backup to tighten everything.
Good Luck!
Mike
 

Cass

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dubldare said:
Heat.

Heating of the stubborn fitting will help in removing the old pipe. The goal is to try to cause the fitting to expand enough so the pipe can be removed, while keeping the heat away from the pipe's threads.

Additionally, if that pipe is in such poor condition, using a chain wrench would be far superior to a pipe wrench. Pipe wrenches have a bad tendency to warp the pipe you're trying to remove.

Distortion or egging of a pipe while attempting removal is most times caused be improper use of the pipe wrench. When useing a pipe wrench you should always have 3 points of contact.
The upper and lower jaw and the the upper jaw slide.
When these 3 points are in contact with and square to the pipe it is nearly impossible to distort the pipe.
 
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hj

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pipe

A steam pipe into a fitting is almost impossible to unscrew. The steam has usually baked the connection to the point where it is immovable. Professionals remove steam pipes by breaking the fitting, in your case the elbow, if it was done correctly with cast iron fittings.
 
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