View Full Version : Where to measure rough in for "Corner Toilet"???
03-12-2012, 09:31 AM
As I remodel the bathroom in our condo, I have found that the toilet drain pipe is REALLY close to the wall (the last tenant actually cut into the wall behind the toilet to get the tank to fit) so I was thinking about a "corner toilet" with a triangular tank. But I wanted to know where to measure the rough in distance from. Is it from the corner of the room or still from the side wall? I am assuming it is from the corner (where you would get the extra distance to make it fit), but I just wanted to make sure before I ordered anything.
03-12-2012, 12:26 PM
The Titan corner toilet rough-in is 12" from the corner
Titan corner toilet
Normally, if you have a less then a standard rough, up against a wall, you would order a 10" bowl. Those can fit in as little as 9.25" from the wall.
03-12-2012, 01:01 PM
You need to consult the rough-in specs for toilet model under consideration. The specs Terry posted indicate a 12" distance from
each adjoining wall, which I think is typical. Of course, this means the distance from the actual corner is considerable greater than
12". So it looks like a corner toilet may not solve your problem.
03-12-2012, 01:28 PM
If you want the tank farther away from a flat wall, you may want to look at a 10" rough. The CST744EF.10 will rough in at 9-1/4"
That's 3/4" behind the tank at 10"
The CST744EF.10 will rough in at 9-1/4"
03-12-2012, 03:14 PM
The concern is needing a short rough in because the drain hole is SO close to the wall. I will try to get some photos and measurements the next time I am up there.
03-14-2012, 08:22 PM
I have attached the photos of where by flange sits in relation to the walls I am putting up in my bathroom. As you can see,
the flange is only about 8" from the wall (that is the wall where the tank would back up to) (space has been left for the cement board and tile thickness). Can I install an offset flange to give me the couple inches I need to install a toilet with a 10" rough in? Any other suggestions?
03-14-2012, 09:15 PM
Go ahead and get your sledge hammer out. You will need to break out the concrete and move the drain.
You don't want an offset flange in there.
03-15-2012, 07:11 AM
As I have never gotten this involved in plumbing renovation before, could you please explain to me what the issue would be with an offset flange? I am not questioning your suggestion, I just want to understand the reason behind moving the flange from it's current location (Which I would need some guidance to do) as opposed to breaking out the floor down to a certain point and taking off the current flange and replacing it with something like this:
Thanks for your input and suggestions.
03-15-2012, 10:08 AM
I guess the plumbers don't like them, because the homeowners keep complaining about them.
Years and years of pulling toilets and seeing offsets has put a real damper on it for plumbers that have to sit and listen to complaining homeowners.
The new toilets with the 3" flush valves are going to have even more issues. But you live in Chicago, far away from me. I will never be called to "FIX" it.
The easiest fix on that, would be to take a flange repair ring, rotohammer it into the floor with the bolts at 9.5" from the finished wall and use a 10" rough toilet.
That offsets the bowl over the pipe, but drops the waste straight down the pipe. I prefer that to an offset flange.
The pipe coming out of the floor is 4". You can shift the bowl away from the wall and still get a straight shot down.
If you were to break out concrete at this stage, you would be able to put the rough at 12" from the back wall and 15" to the side wall. That would be perfect!
The side to code on a toilet is 15" to center. That's a 30" space. In older homes they set fixtures at 24", which gave no room for shoulders. Most people have this handy things called "arms" hanging off the upper part of their bodies.
03-15-2012, 11:12 AM
So just so I am understanding this right, you are suggesting I offset just the flange? Something like this:
(The red being the flange and the blue the existing drain hole) Would I cut off the existing flange so the replacement sits over a flat hole? Do I need some type of sealer? Do I / Can I cover the hole that is "outside" the flange with something other than the toilet? Does/should the inner lip of the replacement piece sit at the lip edge of the hole? Can some of the floor fall inside the inner lip? or does it just matter that I hit that 9.5" measurement?
03-15-2012, 11:38 AM
I would install a standard 4" flange first. No offset at all.
Then I would use locate the bolts at 9.5" from the wall. You do that either by drilling concrete and setting anchors, or I would use a "repair ring" and anchor that to the floor. It has outside the ring holes that allow for the concrete anchors to be farther out.
Then I would drop the bowl down over the bolts that have been positioned at 9.5" from the wall. This moves the bowl toward the near side facing you.
So to reiterate. This is not a 4x3 flange, it's a 4" flange. The flange goes on normally over the 4" pipe, but the bowl is not centered to it, the bowl is moved to offcenter. The horn on the bowl will be 2-5/8" swimming inside a 4" drain. There is plenty of room to move the bowl away from the wall.
03-15-2012, 12:23 PM
So more like this?
Do I cut off the old flange or does the replacement ring just go over it?
03-15-2012, 01:21 PM
Yes, that's what it would look like.
You may be able to leave the old flange there, and just use the red ring to move the bolt locations out.
If you replaced the flange and raised it up, it would still look like that from the top.
03-15-2012, 01:26 PM
Thank you so much for your input. I will take some photos of the project as I reinstall the new toilet (after a lot of other bathroom work) and post up the results.
04-26-2012, 10:47 AM
So, I looked at the installation instructions for the Toto Aquia toilet and noticed that there is a "Socket" (the term they use in the installation instructions) that is supposed to attach to the bolts I will attach to the repair flange (as suggested by Terry). If this is attached to the new flange (as discussed above) will it re-center the horn and make the rough in distance too short again? Or will the "Socket" be offset thereby making the horn sit at the correct distance?
I am visualizing how this will all go together and can't seem to see it in my head.
The new Aquia socket is on the right.
The Aquia can also be ordered with a 10" rough
Those will install at 9.5"