Heater ?'s

It just dawned on me.....in my 2nd floor rehab project, the bath has NO HEAT.

The house has forced air, but at this point, we are in no position to run any ductwork.

While I am an electrician, you plumbers have probably seen more along the lines of an electric heater for the bathroom than I have. Putting radiant heat panels in the ceiling is not really an option (too many lights..but not enough to heat the room). I thought about some sort of under floor/in the tile heat - but think that will only warm the floor as oppossed to heat the room. I may be able to recess a heater(or two) into some wall cavities...I'd rather not install a simple electric BB heater (but may have to).

Any suggestions?

You can get plenty of heat for a bathroom just from a small plug-in-the-wall electric space heater, until you can get to running a more conventional heating system for your second floor. That's one way.
Mike

Heated towel bars are nice, but most are only around 150W or so, but, if you have it on all of the time and things are insulated...it can make a difference. It does cycle itself to prevent it from overheating, but that may not be a 'problem'.

Mike Swearingen said:

plug-in-the-wall electric space heater, until you can get to running a more conventional heating system for your second floor.
Mike

Click to expand...

The 2nd flr IS heated - just not the bath.

jadnashua said:

Heated towel bars are nice, but most are only around 150W or so, but, if you have it on all of the time and things are insulated...it can make a difference. It does cycle itself to prevent it from overheating, but that may not be a 'problem'.

Click to expand...

150W? The lightbulbs will produce more wattage than that 7x75w= 525w. Neither of which will be very effeicient ~ although the switches could act as some sort of a Rube Goldberg t-stat

Come on people...I know you have better ideas.

TonyBagadonutz said:

The 2nd flr IS heated - just not the bath.
150W? The lightbulbs will produce more wattage than that 7x75w= 525w. Neither of which will be very effeicient ~ although the switches could act as some sort of a Rube Goldberg t-stat
Come on people...I know you have better ideas.

Click to expand...

Electric radiant heating is 100% efficient. You will get 1792 BTU/Hr from 525 watts. The light will be converted to heat when it gets absorbed by the surfaces.

You can install a line voltage thermostat in parallel with the light switch. If you turn on the switch you have light. If the thermostat demands heat, you have heat and light. Maybe you can change a couple of the lights to 150 watt reflector heat lamps.

You can get a Broan Model 655 (Grainger stock # 4C379) which is a Fan/Heater/Light combination, or Model 658 (Grainger stock # 4C851) which is a Fan/Heater combination, both of which have 1300 Watt heaters. You could hook up the heater circuit to the thermostat mentioned above.

heat

If you heat the floor tile, it will heat the room, or more precisely it will heat you. That is the principle behind floor radiant heat