Weird CI hub size

Renovating the 80 YO basement bath- all the subsurface galvanized piping (shower & vents shot- basically held together by the dirt); excavated out the CI double wye- left side branch runs to lavatory drain (which looks like 2" CI in good shape); Middle 4" branch ran to the lead closet bend, which I removed & will replace with PVC using 4x3 Fernco donut; right side branch is the mystery- this had 1 !/2" steel rigged into what looked like a 2" hub- I say rigged because there was a lot of lead around it and it looked like it was undersized for the hub. Anyway a lot of brutality administered with drills, sawzall, hammer cold chisel & torch finally got the galvanically bonded pipe end out.

One problem- After cleaning this right branch hub, it seems the 2x2 fernco is too loose and a 3" is too big. What gives?
anyone ever heard of a 2 1/2" size CI hub?

If I can't get a donut to fit this wacko size, then it looks like I'll have to knock out the double wye & replace it with new PVC- only hope the CI lav line isn't another odd size...

fernco on the outside of a hub??

are you trying to use a fernco to attach to the outside
of the cast iron hub here?????


the OD diamaeter of cast iron is lots bigger than a 2 inch fernco
the ID diameter or inside of the hub is actually what you should be
hooking up to.

that sounds like what you are doing to me.....

please correct me if I mis understood you

I suppose you could do that if you absolutely had to and
you always had access to this area in the future....

I suppose you could tighten downa 3 inch fernco to one
but it isnt really the right way to do things....

it would probably work ok for 30 years or so,
I have seen lots worse....


If the 2x2 fernco is too tight
and the 3x2 fernco is too loose

what exactly are you doing?? what are you trying to attach to..


yes they do make a 2 1/2 fernco fitting , its out there
but might be pretty hard to find......

fitting

You may have a "Stringer" fitting which was a series of cast iron soil fitting to accomplish specialized installations. They did not always have "standard" hubs.

1000 words....

Mark,

Yeh, I think I'm being misunderstood a bit- here's a photo that should 'splain what the situation is...[/IMG]

We're talkin' the ID here- 2" too loose; 3" won't fit at all. Any suggestions welcomed profusely

Fernco website doesn't list any 2.5 inch donuts- havent put a caliper measurement on the ID yet, but I'm worried if I take out the double wye, I'll still have the same issue mating up to the line on the other branch- a wack size CI pipe...

you got fun now

I think you pumped the pooch
on that little project.......


the reason is the fernco fittings I was referring to
have SS CLAMPS that tighten down to the pipe.

you should have left that nipple going into that cast alone
and got a Fernco that clamped down to it....

you have already cut the pipe out of the hub, now getting that
doughnut to work inside of that cast is like "mission impossible"...

I honestly dont know if I could beat
that damn thing together or would even venture to try.....
that appears and probably IS the right size ,
but its like hell to make it to work

you put the fernco into the joint fitst then you got to
GREASE up the pipe and force it and ram it into the fitting to make
it all go together tight.... if it works at all with taht old junk

I am sure someone out their has used them and have had success

but they simply are not that popular with most plumbers...



Be careful not to crack that hub.. then its really "the crying game"

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the two options I see you can do

The right way would be to
stick the pipe into the joint and caulk it in with old style OAKUM
then pour a LEAD JOINT with the antique rope and ladle, ect....

but I am pretty sure that aint gonna happen. because .
you have never had to attempt it before and the tools are not that available.

you can call a plumber to lead in the joints or
you can caulk them in yourself tehn use epoxy or silicone
to make the seal


the third optioin is probably what would be your best route
would be to go back behind that 4 inch double wye and cut it off
and start over with a 4 inch fernco fitting and go to PVC if possible...

their are some other things that would probably work out ok but some
people would really howl at me if I suggested them here...

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what exactly is going to happen to those
other broken branches anyway???

are they dead lines now???
are they going to have to be repiared too???


just wondering what the plan was or is because thair are
other ways to skin this cat.......

There is "plastic lead" that you can get, I think Oatey makes it, not positive. You can beat some oakum in between the bottom/side of the hub and pipe then fill the rest with this product. I have done it a few times. It works well but the pipe must be stationary during the cure. Give it double the cure time due to the size of the gap. If your working on a horizontal the "plastic lead" is a little runny but you just play with it until it sets. Be sure the hub is real clean, wire brush it good, use a cheap metal putty knife to apply. The part of the pipe that contacts the "Plastic lead" will soften due to the solvent in the plastic but will become riged once cured thus the need to keep the pipe stationary.

Etc...

Stay tuned- Fernco customer service cited me part # that will supposedly work; I'll report here to share the results. Thanx 4 the feedback so far- I was thinking along some of the same lines...

You most likely need an extra heavy 2" donut.

If you scrape away most of the junk on that wye, you may find an 'XH' stamped on one of the hubs.

Chances are you have a 'service' weight donut.

Fenco's number for this is: 22UX-205

http://www.fernco.com/Donut.asp

thanx

That's exactly what Fernco told me- trying to locate the part....

Most likely you will need to find a company thet buys direct from Fernco. I'll bet if you call Fernco they can give you the name of several companys that you can call and order from.

save yourself all the greif

just save yourself all the touble and
do the okaum caulk and liquid seal approach

their might not be one available in your whole state...


the easy path is best

the easy path

I am working on two different remodels where the "plumber" took the "easy path". Neither would even come close to being acceptable to even a novice plumber, and both would have created IMMENSE problems sometime after the floor was poured. The "right way" is usually the best way, even if it is not always the easiest.