Plastic or Copper Supply for Humidifier

SAS

SAS

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I am replacing an old furnace mounted humidifier with a new one. The installation instructions for the new humidifier, an Aprilaire 400, indicate that it should be hooked up via 1/4 inch copper tubing. I already have plastic tubing feeding the current humidifier, and it is working fine and in good condition (it's still flexible and has no signs of drying out). Oh, and it is being connected to the cold water supply. So is there a good reason to replace the existing tubing? I understand that copper is a better choice in some ways, but I hate to change anything that works.
 
Copper is likely to last the life of the unit. Plastic might, or might not - depends on your water, any pollutants in the air, UV exposure (may not have any) and how often it is flexed. The water valve (solenoid) creates a water hammer effect each time it turns on and off, that can play with plastic piping. It's better to follow the manufactuer's instructions, but as said, it might last a very long time.
 
It's your call, but if it was mine, I change it to copper. I'd tee off of the supply line with 1/2". I'd put a 1/2" ball valve close to the tee then use 1/2" to get fairly close to the humidifier. Then I'd transition to the 1/4" copper for the rest of the run. Of course you could use more 1/4" line and other variations which would work just as well. You didn't mention how you are tapped into the supply line, but if it is with a saddle valve, definitely get rid of that.
 
I'd use pex tubing and install a water hammer arrester at the unit. If pex is allowed by your local plumbing code. The installation instructions advise you to use a saddle valve......IMO you should NOT install a saddle valve. Install a 1/4 turn valve and from this valve install tubing to the unit. Install the water hammer arrester close to the units water inlet fitting. Check with your local plumbing inspector and verify your installation plan satisfies your local plumbing code.
 
OK. So let's assume that I want to replace the saddle valve (since I don't like them and I see some corrosion on the pipe around it), what's the best (easiest) way to do it? The saddle valve is only a few feet from the humidifier, so I don't see any reason to install anything other than a valve and the copper tubing. If I cut out the section of pipe with the saddle valve, what is the simplest way to do this? PS - I would rather not sweat any fittings.
 
Well you could use a sharkbite tee or a compression tee but I prefer soldering. Go with the 1/4" copper tube to the humidifyer and you don't need a water hammer arrestor for two reasons. One, 1/4" line is small and does not carry enough volume for water hammer to occur and even if it did the tubing will cushion the hammer too. BTW, I believe that Oatley and Souix Chief both make the whole kit with the line, valve and fittings all packaged together. Another option is to use a stainless steel flex for a refrigerator ice maker.
 
I saw the Sioux Chief product and understand how I could do it with a compression tee. I've not used Sharkbites before; given that you have to slide the pipe into them, can you cut out a section of pipe like you would with a compression fitting and slide a Sharbite tee into the gap? Or would it grab on one side and leave you without enough give on the other side?
 
Unless you have room to shift the pipe, NOTHING will allow you to just cut out a small section and insert the tee. Soldering will be the most "elegant" installation, but you can do it with a Sharkbite tee and an "insertion coupling" which will slide onto one side, then attach the other by sliding it back off the first side as necessary.
 
I just saw on their site that Sharkbite makes a slip tee fitting. That would seem to be the easiest. Then I would just use a short nipple and a stop valve. Correct?
 
Yes, that should work...it would still require you to be able to at least offset the ends of the pipe to slide the fitting on one side, then align, and slide it back to seal on the other side. If, once the pipe is cut, you have enough play to move one end, you can use a plain T instead, and save some money.
 
Tom Sawyer said:
Go with the 1/4" copper tube to the humidifyer and you don't need a water hammer arrestor for two reasons. One, 1/4" line is small and does not carry enough volume for water hammer to occur and even if it did the tubing will cushion the hammer too.
Click to expand...

Last I checked a water hammer arrestors function was to prevent the tubing from being the "cushion" LOL

Smaller lines have smaller connections and are subject to damage from water hammer,it just takes longer.
 
Check your code, water hammer arrestors are no longer required 2011 IPC

35 years, never seen an ice maker or humidifier line fail from water hammer. But....if you want to install them, by all means have a party.
 
Tom Sawyer said:
Check your code, water hammer arrestors are no longer required 2011 IPC

35 years, never seen an ice maker or humidifier line fail from water hammer. But....if you want to install them, by all means have a party.
Click to expand...

Do you mind posting a link to the 2011 IPC codebook?
 
There is no link, at least not one that I know of. I buy my code books so maybe it's online but the ICC is pretty good at making sure that you can't get their latest books without payment. However, as I am a certified and licensed plumbing education seminar provider, I can assure you that it's there. Probably under chapter 3 or 6 but I'm not at the office so I don't have a copy near.
 
Tom Sawyer said:
There is no link, at least not one that I know of. I buy my code books so maybe it's online but the ICC is pretty good at making sure that you can't get their latest books without payment. However, as I am a certified and licensed plumbing education seminar provider, I can assure you that it's there. Probably under chapter 3 or 6 but I'm not at the office so I don't have a copy near.
Click to expand...

Ok post a link to were I can buy a 2011 IPC plumbing codebook. Fair enough?
 
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