3.5" co cover leaks

DavidTu

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Have 4" CI with 3.5" brass cleanout cover that leaks during water test. Using pipe dope on both male and female threads (as per instructions). Have unmade and remade connection, have tightened pretty hard with plumbing wrench. Why would this still be leaking?
 
Have 4" CI with 3.5" brass cleanout cover that leaks during water test. Using pipe dope on both male and female threads (as per instructions). Have unmade and remade connection, have tightened pretty hard with plumbing wrench. Why would this still be leaking?

Loose threads.
 
Something that large in diameter needs a BIG wrench to seat it. If the CI is old, and the threads are somewhat rusted, that just adds to the problems.
 
Leaking cleanouts are pretty common on a pressure test.
I've had good luck sealing them with wax from a wax ring.
 
Use some good pipe dope and let it sit a day before you test it. Or use the waxseal trick and try it again.....thats a good tip that works.
 
Thin brass plugs do NOT have a "full" thread so they seal good enough for a cleanout, but not for a pressure test. I clamp a 4" "rubber test cap" over the thread's hub.
 
Thin brass plugs do NOT have a "full" thread so they seal good enough for a cleanout, but not for a pressure test. I clamp a 4" "rubber test cap" over the thread's hub.

In that case I would prefer to install the brass plug and then install the fernco cap over all of it. Leave it that way forever. Yeah those threads are crap......most of that stuff I believe is made in Ching chong.
 
quote; Leave it that way forever.

Not a good idea when you have to get to the cleanout. Trying to loosen the hose clamp can be very difficult without making the wall opening larger.
 
quote; Leave it that way forever.

Not a good idea when you have to get to the cleanout. Trying to loosen the hose clamp can be very difficult without making the wall opening larger.

I never read that the cleanout was inside a wall. I expected some common sense to be applied.
 
How about using hemp to make the joint? Very thin strands on the first few threads, then thicken up the hemp strands, and dope everything. Dont over do it, or you can burst the fitting,esp. galv. fittings. Then again, i believe that hemp is outlawed in some codes.

FWIW: an old plumber told me that he had never had an issue with properly made-up hemp joints. My two cents is that i once demo'd some sound CI hemp joints that had been made 100yrs before.

Another lean, mean and leathery, old plumber was dying, so he sent for the apple of his eye, his young grandson. "Son" he said, " you see this watch i'm wearing?" "Yes Grandfather" "Well how much would you give me for it?"
 
Another possibility, although probably rare, is that the cover itself is a lousy casting and has a leak in it itself. But, the larger the pipe, generally, the higher the torque needed to seat it and stop leaks. Pipe threads act like wedges with the pipe dope and/or teflon tape filling in to make the actual seal. On a large diameter fitting, it takes a lot of torque to wedge it in there and not leak. have you tried both tape AND dope?
 
I don't think I could torque it any more w/o causing damage somewhere. I will perhaps try a different cover and if that does not work I will use HJ's test cap idea. This CO cover will never see a splash of water in actual use the way it is situated so just need to pass the test. Btw, would the inspector fail us on a leaky CO cover as I assume?
 
What size wrench are you trying to tighten this with? The quality of some of this stuff is getting lousy. If they cut the threads on either piece (maybe both) with dull tools, the threads could be rough and torn. Those are really hard to seal, but with enough pipe dope and maybe in combination with some teflon tape, you should be able to do it.
 
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