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View Full Version : what metal connector to a water heater to prevent galvanic corrosion?



Steve603
12-29-2011, 05:21 PM
I just replaced an ail fired water heater with a new Bock.

I got 15 years out of the old one because I change out the anode rods every 5 years. It still worked fine, but it was creating more and more sediment and chewing up the anodes, so its time had come. 15 years with chlorinated water is a good lifespan I think.

It's a habit of mine to remove the silly drain valve and replace it with a 3/4" ball valve. That way when I drain the sediment--it works!

In the past there has always been few inch nipple with a silly valve on the end. This time there was just a bronze valve screwed directly into the water heater.

Should I be using a 3" iron nipple and then using a 3/4" ball valve?

Or should I be using a 3" bronze nipple with the ball valve.

I'm a bit worried that the 3" bronze nipple might cause corrosion in the tank.

Suggestions please?

And I bought a red brass nipple by accident, I didn't know the difference.

So as it's set now, I've directly screwed the 3" red brass nipple and have a ball valve on the end.

Is this the correct way to make the water heater last another 15 years?

jadnashua
12-29-2011, 05:50 PM
Brass and bronze are much more stable than iron, so should not be a source of corrosion. Whether the new tank will last as long as the old one is up in the air pot shot. Changing the anodes helps, but is no guarantee of success.

jimbo
12-29-2011, 07:35 PM
Brass or bronze are both suitalble as direct connectors to a water heater.
The sediment build up is from minerals in the water, and is not related to the corrosion-protective anode. Flushing two to three times per year would help with the sediment build up.