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View Full Version : Rheem 04EAUSR. Igniter doesn't glow.



Rickcusaf
12-02-2011, 10:22 AM
I have a Rheem 04EAUSR and when I turn it on and set it to call for heat, the unit starts up and blows air, but it's not hot. When I went to the garage to look at it, the flame wasn't on. I went through the quick check guide on under the panel and after following the steps I've found out that my igniter doesn't glow at all. What is the next step I should take to diagnose the problem?

jadnashua
12-02-2011, 12:46 PM
That could be a symptom of the control board, or the ignitor, or a wiring failure (assuming it had worked). Look for obvious things like a loose or corroded, or broken wire to the ignitor. Watch the thing through a full cycle to verify it never gets hot. It doesn't stay hot once the system determines it has actually lit the burner. On some, the ignitor is also the flame detector. If it does get hot, when the gas should then come on, if it doesn't detect that it actually got hot because of the flame, rather than applying electricity to make it glow, it will shut the gas off. So, if it does come on, it could be the gas valve is not opening. This again, could be the valve or the controller. If you are comfortable with a meter, you can verify that the parts are getting their proper voltages at the proper time. Also, if this is a closed combustion device, the fan may not have come on and the vacuum switch interlock may be preventing it from going through the proper cycle since it is sensing some problem with the flue.

Rickcusaf
12-18-2011, 01:29 PM
I ended up replacing the ignitor based on what a local HVAC guy said. It still didn't glow, but when I turned it on this time, the gas started going and didn't shut off. I ended up turning off and unplugging the unit, because the whole house started to smell like gas.

DonL
12-18-2011, 02:35 PM
I ended up replacing the ignitor based on what a local HVAC guy said. It still didn't glow, but when I turned it on this time, the gas started going and didn't shut off. I ended up turning off and unplugging the unit, because the whole house started to smell like gas.

That is not good at All, I would check the CAD eye.

Gas is no playing mater...

Rickcusaf
12-19-2011, 04:54 AM
Where would that be located so I can check it? I did some searching and only found stuff about Oil burners?

jadnashua
12-19-2011, 06:23 AM
Different makes use different methods to determine if the flame has actually ignited. Sometimes it's a little probe, sometimes it's the dual purpose ignitor/sensor, sometimes it's a photo sensor. Somewhere in your documentation it will have a theory of operation, and describe what you have. Then, either in that manual or on the block diagram often on an inside panel, it will show the interlock, and operational wiring diagram. Unless you deal with wiring diagrams often, they can be confusing, but if you take your time, you can usually figure it out. Whatever your system uses, it must either be in the flame or be able to see the flame.

Rickcusaf
12-19-2011, 08:57 AM
Would that cause the hot surface ignitor to not glow though? Right now the ignitor is still not glowing.

DonL
12-19-2011, 09:24 AM
Would that cause the hot surface ignitor to not glow though? Right now the ignitor is still not glowing.

Are You able to read an error code, Looking at the LEDs on the control board ?

ballvalve
12-19-2011, 10:25 AM
I ended up replacing the ignitor based on what a local HVAC guy said. It still didn't glow, but when I turned it on this time, the gas started going and didn't shut off. I ended up turning off and unplugging the unit, because the whole house started to smell like gas.

You are definitely going to spring for the HVAC guy, or up your homeowners insurance and take a long vacation.

DonL
12-19-2011, 12:58 PM
You are definitely going to spring for the HVAC guy.

That may not be a bad Idea.

After looking at the service manual for that unit, It looks like it could be a Air Flow sensor, Shutting it down.

If the old ignitor was bad, and broke and shorted to ground, It may have blown the fuse.

The three LEDs on the control board should help to troubleshoot the simple problems.

A service tech may be worth the cost, For safety reasons.

ballvalve
12-19-2011, 02:07 PM
a bad air flow sensor will NEVER let gas flow. Just changed a few. Probably the main board. VERY rare for gas to flow with a igniter hot and the exhaust inducer running. Only chance would be a out of alignment hot igniter, and bad flame sensor.

DonL
12-19-2011, 02:46 PM
a bad air flow sensor will NEVER let gas flow. Just changed a few. Probably the main board. VERY rare for gas to flow with a igniter hot and the exhaust inducer running. Only chance would be a out of alignment hot igniter, and bad flame sensor.

That is True, The gas valve should never open.

Not sure why there would be a gas smell. That made no sense.

If the air does not flow the igniter SHOULD never come on either, according to the manual.

Could be the control board is bad.

Rickcusaf
01-05-2012, 05:46 AM
Sorry for the delay in replying. The main board has three lights. The Power and Ok lights are on, but the Flame light isn't. Nothing flashes nor do I see any noticeable warning. I'd love to spring for the HVAC guy, but my wife lost her job early December and money is super tight right now. It sucks, because it's starting to dip into the 20s where I live.

jimbo
01-05-2012, 06:43 AM
Hate to sound like the grim reaper, but money will be tighter if you have to pay for a funeral. This is just not the type of problem that can be fixed by poking around and changing parts on a whim. If filling the house with a gas smell did not scare the crap out of you, well...I see a new reality show in your future.

Rickcusaf
01-05-2012, 01:52 PM
It did, but there is no money for an HVAC guy right now. They charge $75 an hour here with a minimum of one hour charged. It hasn't smelled like gas since though. When it happened the first time it was right after I had changed the ignitor and the slow-blow fuse. How much are the control boards and where would I be able to find one if it does happen to be that?

jimbo
01-05-2012, 04:45 PM
You forgot to tell us the full model number starts with letters...possibly RGPH04?

The install manual is 48 pages and has troubleshooting hints. Do you have that?

If it is a RGPH...there are actually 25 different ignition systems used...including different control boards.
I checked a few at the internet suppliers. You are up around $200 for a board. I am pretty sure a supply house in town would NOT sell it to you. A service contractor will get it for wholesale, but will have to mark it up to you...possibly closer to $300, depending on what kind of mood he is in!

Against my better judgement...if you will provide the complete serial number,and of course the model number if it is not RGPH, I will give you the part number for the board and other ignition components. The build version is described, or " decoded" , in the serial number.
I do recommend you get the install booklet and read it over.

Rickcusaf
01-06-2012, 08:28 AM
I appreciate it. The model number starts with RGDG.

Serial: DF5D302F069602895

jimbo
01-06-2012, 02:10 PM
I appreciate it. The model number starts with RGDG.

Serial: DF5D302F069602895

The DF indicates Honeywell VR8205H with United Technologies 1012-920 with remote sensor.
The Rheem part number for the integrated ignition/blower board is 62-24044-81
The igniter is 62-22868-93
Flame sensor is 62-23543-01

I strongly urge you to install a carbon monoxide alarm, and a gas leak alarm , if you do not already have those. This is a fairly complicated machine, and the consequences of screwing it up are severe.

You would be better served to put some logs in your fireplace, or use some portable electric heaters, until you can have this checked out by someone who is skilled in repairing these.

On line, it looks like around $300 for the board, $30 for the igniter, $10 for the flame sensor.

I should add....for this type of system, the system ground is critical to operation of the flame sensor. You could check for good ground connection at the wall plug, solid plug, look for loose ground wires or screws in the unit.