Basement toilet rough-in...cast iron

Hi Guys,

Been a lurker here for awhile looking for remodeling advice on my upstairs bathroom. Now that I've gutted my upstairs bathroom I'm down to one toilet, which will make things tough with a house full over the holidays. I'm thinking about adding a toilet into the basement. The toilet would be semi-temporary as I'll eventually be remodeling the basement in a few years and will be moving the toilet location. I've attached a couple photos and am just curious if anyone see's any problem with adding a toilet in the rough-in that exists. I guess I'm not even 100% positive this is for a toilet or if it is vented right. So if any experts have any advice I would appreciate it. Also if it truly is ready for a toilet....what's the best way to cut that pipe.......grinder? Thanks in advance.

Any thoughts guys.....I have a plumber scheduled for tomorrow.....just hoping for any advice if this looks like it's ready for a toilet before he comes out and tells me it's something else. Thanks

I don't know many people that would want a WC in that location in relation to the outside wall.

A basement rough-in rarely makes any sense to anyone except the person that set it in place.

Without doing a little investigating it's impossible to tell what you have there. Your plumber should steer you in the right direction

Like I said in the post....it's a temporary toilet until I remodel the basement when it will be moved to the other end of the basement. I do agree though it is not an ideal location. I found the original blue prints from 1968 and it says 1/2 bath rough-in right in that location.

It appears to be a section of 4" cast iron with a 3" plug caulked into it. If so the real problem is removing concrete from around the pipe so a flange can be fastened to the outside of it. Cutting the pipe off is simple for a plumber once the flange is installed. He will just break it off.

I've read enough posts to understand that a lead joint is the best option but given this pipe is new, and shouldn't be overly corroded and really only needs to last 2-3 years wouldn't an inside fitting Oatey flange with the rubber gasket suffice? My plumber doesn't do lead and oakum ....in fact nobody I called does. I guess the more I think about it if I am using one of the inside Oatey Flanges I could just cut that pipe down to concrete length with my grinder and anchor the Oatey down to the concrete with tapcons or something similar I really could do it on my own.

On another note......On my upstairs bathroom I will need to have a new flange reattached to the cast iron drain with the lead and Oakum when I get to that point since the existing is rusted out. Does anyone know a plumber in the Minneapolis area that still does that? I live in Bloomington but anyone close would be worth paying to come out.