Confused about requirements for frameless shower door & panel

Hi guys
I am having my master bath remodelled. I am at the point of ordering frameless shower glass and door but am confused.

The shower is approx 5' x 3'. The 3' side will be a fixed panel. The long side will have to consist of a 32" fixed panel (toilet is right next to this area), with a 28" door hinged on the left, hung from the fixed panel. I am having 1/2" Starphire glass and wanted it to look as simple as possible, but within the bounds of safety/practicality of course. The height of the glass will be 78", ceiling standard 8'.

One supplier is telling me that (something like) the Tempered Glass Association states that the fixed panel cannot be more than 18" wide and have a door hung from it. So he is proposing a glass header (transome) above the door, which is ok but not exactly what i envisioned i.e. nothing above the door. The door would then be 72" high with a 6" piece above it.

Another supplier is telling me the 32" panel with the 28" door is fine, no frame or header needed. He says it will be stable. This would give me the look i want but now i am concerned about long term issues if the first guy is correct.

I have tried to find something difinitive from a glass association online but not finding it.

Does anyone know the correct answer to this? I know you can have almost anything you want built and fitted, but that doesn't mean its the right solution. And i don't want any problems in the future of course!

If you can also provide a link to any guidlines or recommendations from a governing body that would be great - so i have ammunition to argue with guy #2 if necessary.

Guy #2 is also proposing a metal strip along the bottom of the 2 fixed panels. I have seen many pictures of panels with clamps but no metal strip, so any views on that also welcome.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Work with a good supplier. I do envision lots of problems hanging a pivot door off an unsupported panel. I would want the hinged side to be fixed on the bottom and at the ceiling.

we are not told anything about HOW the fixed panels are going to be supported. A "freestanding" glass panel OF ANY SIZE would not support a hinged door. There would normally be at least ONE vertical member at the corner, and THAT is what should support the door.

We would not attach a door to a fixed panel that is only supported on two sides (Bottom & Side) as the assembly would weaken over time.

What type of shower curb are you building?

You do not want penetrations through the waterproofing and if a fastners need to go into the curb the curb should be design to accomodate this.

You might consider making the fixed panel full dimension and then you can have it supported top, bottom and side. This should be more than strong enough for you design. By adding a short return to the long piece of glass you will make that panel stronger as well.

There are many options and some custom hardware that reinforce your shower panels.

Ask your Glazing companies for some warranty info and references. Check them out.

Good Luck.

JW

Thanks for the replies. The curb is topped by pieces of stone. The fixed panel will be attached to the wall by 2 fasteners top and bottom i believe.

I dont want the fixed panel to go to the ceiling so i think that the best option is to have the glass header piece. From what i am reading the panel could be compromised at 32" wide with nothing at the top right corner to stabilize it, with the door hanging from that.

Thanks for your help guys.

With a header or a fake transom you will have your side panel say 86" high and your long panel the same 86". Connecting these two will be a glass to glass bracket and another glass to glass bracket that makes a 90 bend. A 6-10" piece of glass will be attached to these brackets and make the whole assemble very strong.

Then the door can be mounted with glass to glass hinges.

Do not let your crew drill into the tile and compromise your waterproofing. Insist that they only drill say 1/2" or 5/8" in and use a drywall anchor and short screw.

Often theses glazing crews will tell you that it's OK and that they will use silicone to fill the hole. This is not a best work practice and should be avoided.

Good Luck.

JW

Thanks JW. Can i ask your view on glass which has been recessed into the stone saddle?

Glass should not be set directly on a hard material...you could use a strip of say silicon rubber or something, but glass on a hard substance is asking for problems without some cushion there. The slightest imperfection, or differential expansion/contraction and you might find the tempered glass explodes when in an immovable spot.

Jim the glazers set these glass panels on clear rubber bumpers. The dado is oversized and the glass is siliconed after.

johnfrwhipple said:

Jim the glazers set these glass panels on clear rubber bumpers. The dado is oversized and the glass is siliconed after.

Click to expand...

As long as it's not sitting directly on a hard surface, no problem...something any pro should, but many DIY'ers may not know. Tempered glass (well, any glass) is tempermental stuff...very strong, but once you reach it's breaking point, it almost explodes into tiny chunks. If it is tempered properly, they're chunks, and not shards - you can still get hurt, but not impaled. Point stresses are not tolerated well.

From what I know and understand there are options out there that can leave that space above the glass open like you want. The supports for these come from the sidewall and the use of a header is not needed leaving that space available for circulation and air flow. If you are ready to order I found a good deal on my frameless shower door here at eframelessshowerdoors.com