Did my contractor screw up? how to fix?

pocoloco

pocoloco

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Illinois
Really in need of some advice here. For our kitchen remodel the contractors installed all new plumbing including a new drain pipe to the waste stack. Today as they were hooking up the sink drains, disposal, etc... I noticed the drain was higher than it should be.

IMAG0282.jpg

I'm thinking this is an issue as water will pool in the pipes and not completely drain. Assuming this is a problem how can I remedy? Going into the walls again to redo the drain is not an option. However, I have a very accessible crawlspace under the kitchen. So, is an option to add a T after the trap. The current drain would stay connected and act as the vent. The other opening of the T would go straight down into my crawlspace and tap into the same sewer line just at a lower position.

Screen shot 2011-10-28 at 11.36.06 PM.png

Any help would be very appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Two options to fix:

- move the connection in the wall
- use a shallower sink

The sink change may not even do it unless you have a very deep sink. By the looks of it, they set it way too high. From the angle of the pic, it looks higher than the disposal outlet, so all of that piping (and the disposal) will have water in it at all times. They messed up and should fix it for you. Although, it may be difficult at this stage.
 
LLigetfa said:
A vent cannot go horizontal until it is 6 inches above the flood level (rim) of the sink.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

I'm not sure I understand. Currently, even if the drain pipe was at the correct height, the pipe would be horizontal to the stack and not be 6 inches above rim of the sink. Does that mean I have no stack currently?

Edit... I think I understand this point.
 
Last edited:
nukeman said:
Two options to fix:

- move the connection in the wall
- use a shallower sink

The sink change may not even do it unless you have a very deep sink. By the looks of it, they set it way too high. From the angle of the pic, it looks higher than the disposal outlet, so all of that piping (and the disposal) will have water in it at all times. They messed up and should fix it for you. Although, it may be difficult at this stage.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying. I really am trying to avoid going into the walls because everything was just done. argh. What are the consequences of just leaving it as is? Did my proposed solution diagram not get the job done?
 
So looking at my diagram again, if I just cap off the original drain (not use as vent) and just connect that drain to the stack (in blue), isn't it then still vented since I'm tapping into the stack, just at a lower position?

6290328753_434df6f332_b.jpg
 
Blue line is no good. It creates an S-trap and effictively isn't vented.
 
How about removing the garburator and installing as shallow a basket strainer you can find. Relocate the Dishwasher Y to the horizontal between the 2 sinks. I can't tell from the pic if this would work but it would be close.
 
Ok, grasping for straws here. I realize none may be kosher or code but which is the lesser evil:

1. Keep existing drain as "vent" and take the new drain to sewer line in crawl space
2. Cap off the existing drain and take the new drain to sewer line in crawl space
3. Probably scoff at this one (see below) but take the drain straight down to crawlspace and put the trap there before tapping into sewer.

6290399261_279f8b1312_b.jpg
 
pocoloco said:
3. Probably scoff at this one (see below) but take the drain straight down to crawlspace and put the trap there before tapping into sewer.
Click to expand...
I think you will find the code requires the trap to be under the sink, not the floor.

You really should have the contractor come back and make the proper repair by lowering the drain connection, and I say that as a DIYer who believes contractors should be held accountable.
 
No trap under the floor because code limits the length of the vertical drop to the trap. There are only two ways to fix this. One is to open the wall back up and move the san tee down where it belongs. The other is to abandon the whole mess, drop through the floor and use an AAV at the sink.
rate_5.jpg



The big question though is that if a "contractor" just did the work then where were the inspections both rough and final? and furthermore why not call the "contractor" back and make him fix his mistake? After all, you paid good money to have the work done.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Let me get on my soap box here, because this general issue came up on another thread this morning. What you SHOULD have done is called in the plumber BEFORE you purchased the giant new sink, to plan out the job. He could have lowered the pipe in the wall when access was better. That is still the right thing to do, but much harder now.
rate_5.jpg


Your options are not good.. Leaving as is, you will have slow draining sink and disposer. Both the S trap and the deep trap you have proposed will not meet code.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
leejosepho said:
You really should have the contractor come back and make the proper repair by lowering the drain connection, and I say that as a DIYer who believes contractors should be held accountable.
Click to expand...

There's the only correct answer. The wall has to be opened.
 
You can run a new drain line connection in the basement, BUT the line under the tee in the wall has to be capped so it cannot become an "alternate" drain line. The "vent" would connect right at the wall so the "horizontal" portion would be negligible. But, when I say "YOU", I mean the contractor because it is his "screwup". The way it is now the disposer will ALWAYS have water standing in it, and when the disposer is turned on it will vibrate until it pumps the water out. OBVIOUSLY, you CANNOT change to a shallower sink because that one appears to be integral with the countertop, or made from some similar material. As an aside, I, and "millions" of others in this area, have disposers AND septic tanks and they coexist without any problems.
 
jimbo said:
Let me get on my soap box here, because this general issue came up on another thread this morning. What you SHOULD have done is called in the plumber BEFORE you purchased the giant new sink, to plan out the job. He could have lowered the pipe in the wall when access was better. That is still the right thing to do, but much harder now.
Click to expand...

I already had my sink and disposal before he even started the job which he saw, so it's completely on him.

To be clear, the contractor hasn't left yet (haven't paid him the other 50%) and I called him out on it. He wants to work it out and we are exploring options. I'm posting here because I trust you guys a lot more than him and seeing if there are any other viable options. Cutting into the wall and cabinet, disturbing insulation, framing, etc. is what I'm trying to avoid IF I CAN. We very well may just go into the wall and do it right but just thinking out loud here. I appreciate everyone chiming in, I really do. You guys are awesome.
 
Tom Sawyer said:
There are only two ways to fix this. One is to open the wall back up and move the san tee down where it belongs. The other is to abandon the whole mess, drop through the floor and use an AAV at the sink.
Click to expand...

If we go the AAV route, would it work like this?

6292421754_3a4fe4a1d0_b.jpg


Did I create an S trap or does the AAV no longer make it an S trap? The AAV is still below the drain and I thought I read that's not good.
 
Last edited:
hj said:
You can run a new drain line connection in the basement, BUT the line under the tee in the wall has to be capped so it cannot become an "alternate" drain line. The "vent" would connect right at the wall so the "horizontal" portion would be negligible.
Click to expand...

I've read this ten times and I still don't get it. would you be so nice as to elaborate? Thanks
 
Jerome2877 said:
How about removing the garburator and installing as shallow a basket strainer you can find. Relocate the Dishwasher Y to the horizontal between the 2 sinks. I can't tell from the pic if this would work but it would be close.
Click to expand...

I'm considering this option as well. Remove disposal (don't really use it anyways) plus shallow baskets. Does the dishwasher Y have to be above the drain line since the drain line is attached at the way top of cabinet?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Bman3
Small leak from disposal drain under kitchen sink
Replies
2
Views
2K
Bman3
Bman3
S
Looking for expert feedback on my proposed drain plumbing arrangement.
Replies
4
Views
975
Sealflipperpie
S
M
Any issue with having a "double" P-trap?
Replies
0
Views
620
Machine_Ruse
M
John King
Improving laundry plumbing - p trap located 40 feet away in basement
Replies
8
Views
3K
John King
John King
Cl1
Did I vent this correctly?
Replies
13
Views
5K
wwhitney
wwhitney
Back
Top