Leaking copper pipe with green crap.

mz4wheeler · Nov 21, 2005

I've attached 3 photos of my main water pipe with a SUPER SLOW leak. One drip every 10 minutes or so. It has green corroded stuff all around. In the photo, it is the top joint, the smaller 3/4" pipe with the 90 degree angle.

My question is, can I simply shut off the main water, drain the pipe, clean the fitting forst with a wire brush, followed by lots of flux, and re-solder it? That would be easiest.

Or should I refit a new section. The problem is that I can barely reach this pipe because of it's location. I believe I can hit it with a propane torch.

Thanks in advance!

Mike

Terry · Nov 21, 2005

Heating the outside of the pipe won't do much for the leak.

Cutting out that section is the best solution.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

bigrebnc1861 · Nov 22, 2005

My goodness some plumber didn't finish the job by wiping the joint down

. This is what I do when I have a leak, I drain the line down wipe the joint down with another layer of flux, and re-solder the joint useing MAPP gas instead of propane 8 times out of 10 this will work for me. But when it doesn't I will break the joint lose by re-heating the pipe and clean the fitting with a fitting brush, and re-sanding the pipe and adding flux . BUT REMEMBER ALWAYES USE MAPP GAS IT'S HOTTER THEN PROPANE AND SOLDER'S BETTER. After you have finished the job wipe your fitting down, because after time that green buildup of flux left on the pipe will wear your joint down.

Cass · Nov 22, 2005

I agree with bigrebnc1861 but I would also pull off the 90 and clean both peices of pipe and install a new 90 ($.50) I wouldn't use the old 90. Do it once and be done.

hj · Nov 22, 2005

joint

Once water enters a joint at a leak, the copper is contaminated and there is no way to get flux to flow into it anyway. Even a fairly new joint would be difficult to resolder properly after a leak. There is no way you would ever get a joint that is corroded, like your is, to accept solder. All you would do is create a solder bead at the surface of the joint, and that is probably what you had originally which is why it started to leak.

mz4wheeler · Nov 22, 2005

Thanks to all for the advice. I think I need to pull off the old 90 (If I can) and put in a new one... If I can. This fitting is recessed about 2 feet and I may not be able to reach it. I barely had room for the camera [grin].

I did learn something new... The green stuff is flux. Need to clean it off.

Thanks again!

Terry · Nov 22, 2005

Nothing is impossible,

Somethings just take more time and money.

A taller ladder may help, and heating ducts can be removed if needed.

bigrebnc1861 · Nov 22, 2005

hj said:
Once water enters a joint at a leak, the copper is contaminated and there is no way to get flux to flow into it anyway. Even a fairly new joint would be difficult to resolder properly after a leak. There is no way you would ever get a joint that is corroded, like your is, to accept solder. All you would do is create a solder bead at the surface of the joint, and that is probably what you had originally which is why it started to leak.

Maybe I should have made myself a little more clear, when I said add a layer of flux. Adding a little more flux's only helps to break down the solder. and sometime when someone has a leak on copper is they did not allow the heat to flow all the way around the pipe, or they didn't allow the solder to flow around the pipe. That is when you can re-solder a copper joint.

chipshot · Nov 22, 2005

So, what specifically does flux do?

mz4wheeler · Nov 22, 2005

bigrebnc1861 said:
Maybe I should have made myself a little more clear, when I said add a layer of flux. Adding a little more flux's only helps to break down the solder. and sometime when someone has a leak on copper is they did not allow the heat to flow all the way around the pipe, or they didn't allow the solder to flow around the pipe. That is when you can re-solder a copper joint.

Are you saying that I could resolder the pipe?

bigrebnc1861 · Nov 22, 2005

Yes that is correct, just make sure you have the water drained off. For the most part 8 times out of 10 it will work. You can even sweat the fitting lose and replace it with a new one. But I would try re-soldering first, and then go from there. One more thing if the fitting start's to trun black that means you are burning it, and then you should replace it. I have even re-solder 3 inch copper that had a crack almost half way around the joint. The orignal connection was made by a ex-coworker

Plumber1 · Nov 22, 2005

copper leak

I really agree with the men who will cut that bad stuff off and redo with new.
Might not leak and might look ok BUT........
I'd feel better when I went home after being paid to do a good job.

hj · Nov 22, 2005

resolder

mz4wheeler said:
Are you saying that I could resolder the pipe?

No, I am saying that it is almost impossible to resolder a joint properly once water has leaked through it, even if it is a new joint and especially if it is an old one like yours.

Gary Swart · Nov 22, 2005

For Chipshot re flux

I can't give you the scientific explaination of what flux does, but from the practical side, flux literally sucks the molten solder into the joint. If you attempt to solder without flux, the solder will not flow into the joint and the joint will not only leak, it will pull apart. Obviously there is some kind of chemical reaction.

Cass · Nov 23, 2005

Flux alowes the soder to stick/flow on to copper (try to get soder to stick to bare copper) capilary action is what causes the soder to "sweat" or flow between the joints of the pipe and fitting. Personaly I like the pre tinning fluxes. I end up with maybe 1 bad joint a year.

Cal · Nov 23, 2005

The technical term for what flux does,,,, Apprenticeship 2nd year.

Flux promotes cappillary action,,,,the adhesion between dissimilar metals.
when the word is applied to metal work.

Can't believe I remembered that !

Gary Swart · Nov 23, 2005

Like I said the solder sucks into the joint.

Kristi · Nov 23, 2005

Don't bother re-sweating that bad joint!

there is nothing more frustrating that I can think of than taking the time to drain the line, work up a serious sweat (on the joint as well as yourself) in a tight location only to find the problem still exists once the water is turned back on. Don't be tempted to work with what's there. Cut the whole freakin' thing out, tee and all - it's more soldering on your todo list, but worth knowing that it's all fixed now. By the looks of those photos, maybe this is the only one leaking, but you certainly have others well on their way to the same problem...!

mz4wheeler · Nov 23, 2005

Hmm.. Well, I *TRIED* the easy way, and the solder would't stick for nothing, even after shining up the pipe and fluxing the hell out of it [grin]. Time was running out so I gave up and I'll cut it out tonight and replace the 90. After I re-pressurized the pipe, it leaked a little worse.

My wife wasn't impressed either [grin].

Terry · Nov 23, 2005

I've never found that reheating a bad joint is ever easy.

It will waste time though.
It's not that I haven't tried it in the past though. I think every plumber has.

That's why our "first" response now is to just cut those things out.

Leaking copper pipe with green crap.

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