View Full Version : Toto Drake - Loud Squeek when Tank is Filled and Shutting off Water

08-27-2011, 03:57 PM
I have 6 month old Toto Drake toilet. I installed, and after a flush, the tank refils, as required, and then when it fills it to the top, there is a loud squeek as it shuts off the water coming into the tank(the float / cut off valve). This has become a bit annoying and like I said, really loud. Any suggestions on ridding this noise. Toilet works great and I've been tempted to just ignore (ain't broke.. don't fix it). But I think I'm ready to trouble shoot this if I can.

08-27-2011, 04:27 PM
If you have the Korky valve made for Toto (it does not have a big plastic screw slot on the top), then you might just take it apart and check the gasket and the filter. There may be something caught there. You should also consider checking your water pressure. If it is greater than 80psi, codes generally want you to install a pressure relief valve. Some valves, toilet especially, don't like excessive pressure. 80psi is the maximum generally accepted as 'normal' for a domestic residence in the USA. Higher, it should be reduced to make everything work better, longer, safer. That cap that holds the gasket can be replaced - sold at Lowes and many hardware/plumbing stores for about $2. The instructions to take it apart are around, and available at the www.korky.com (http://www.korky.com) website. no tools required, and it's pretty quick and easy.

08-28-2011, 09:30 PM
PRV.. Pressure Reducing Valve, I'm sure this is what Jim meant.

08-29-2011, 04:56 AM
Thanks for the replies. A few follow on questions. 1. The plastic floating shut off device is brand named...'GMAX' (90% sure) not Korkey, but the general idea may still apply, ...right, Jadnasuah? 2. I have good (better than average, from the homes I've been in..) water pressure. I don't know how to record my water pressure, or where and how to do this. Any advice?

I'll look into a Lowes stop if the Korkey / GMAX device recommendation is the direction to trouble shoot...I also have a plumbing showroom, where I bought the toilet. Maybe they have this particular brand. It's the top 'cap' part that we are referring to I assume. Pull of with the palm of hand, snaps back into place. Right?

Thank you all, I'm glad this forum and website exists.

08-29-2011, 02:54 PM
Yes, I did mean PRV, not a relief valve!

If there's no big plastic screw on the top of the valve, it is made for them by Korky, so Korky parts are what you need. While there, you can pick up a water pressure gauge for about $10 that has a hose fitting on it. You can install it on say the drain of the water heater, the supply to the washing machine, and outside hose conection, or anywhere else if you also buy some adapters. Get one that has a 'tattle tale' extra hand. this will show the peak pressure which may be different than your average pressure. It can spike late at night when they are refilling water towers and fewer people are using water. If it exceeds 80psi, then a PRV and expansion tank are in your future as well.

Gary Swart
08-29-2011, 05:44 PM
Many people think high pressure is better. While certainly there must be some pressure to push the water, too much has no benefit and can be damaging to appliances such as toilets and washers. Even the cheapest single hand pressure gauges can help, and the one's with the tattle tale hand are even better. You just screw them on to a faucet and turn the faucet on. This will give you static pressure (no water being used) The tattle tale will show spikes which often occur at night. Pressure below 40 psi is probably too low and over 80 is too high. I regulate mine at 50 which seems about right for me. As noted, a PRV necessitates a thermal expansion tank. This has be discussed many times on this forum.

08-30-2011, 07:47 AM
Thank you guys. This has been very helpful. I called my county water and sewer office. They say that the pressure is approx 90 PSI. They cannot tell me the exact pressure at my house or any information on 'spikes'. They say I have to call a plumber. I like the idea of me testing static pressure. I think I understand how, but where should I hook up to in order to get the 'tatle-tail' spike (likley at night) reading? What appliance or location?

Thank you all this is very helpfull. Also, I have a large ugly noise when I turn my shower diverter knob too. (i would guess due to high pressure), and I hear loud 'hammering' when washers etc enter into a supply water cycle. My gut tells me (based upon the theme of what I've been reading), that I have high water pressure.

Any idea of what PRV installation should cost? Locality is GA, but a general price range? I have easy access to my water line. It's in my unfurnished basement, very easy access to my shut off and line.

Gary Swart
08-30-2011, 08:34 AM
Cost will depend on local plumbing rates. Since these vary greatly from area to area, it's really impossible to even make a ballpark guess. However, provided there is relatively easy access to the water supply line where it enters your home, this will be a very simple job for a plumber. You will need to have a thermal expansion tank installed as well. This too is a simple job for a plumber, so the addition of a PRV and expansion tank will not require a second mortgage.

08-30-2011, 10:18 AM
90 psi static is too high and you should have a PRV installed along with an expansion tank.

To record the maximum, just leave the gauge attached for say 24-hours or so...the whole idea of the tattle tale hand is it gets pushed by the current read hand to the max position and when the current read hand drops, it just stays there. So, you can look at it any time and see what the max or peak pressure was.

08-31-2011, 05:45 AM
I bought a guage with a tattle tale hand (Brand: orbitz???something like that) Last night at my outside spiggiot, I recorded 70 psi. My county said 'generally they deliver 90 psi'...guess when it gets down and around county and to me i get 70. I still intend on doing the overnight check for spikes. I'm thinking of putting on my supply to my washer.

So it this reading too high? do i still need PRV and thermal expansion tank? what is my goal....50 psi?

08-31-2011, 10:00 AM
70 PSI is fine.
I don't reduce unless it's over 80 PSI

Toto uses a few fill valves, and they are say the same thing on the top, no matter who really makes them.
Some will do a little squeak at the end of the refill. Some don't.
The ones made by Korky don't have the squeak. Some people notice the squeaky ones and some don't.

Just like I have some customers that hang out in the bathroom after showering and listen to the water dripping from a tub spout for 35 minutes. I say if the water dripping from a spout is too much, go to another room and close the door.