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View Full Version : How do I fix this rotted wood?



Briandl
05-16-2011, 12:52 PM
Best guess on my part is that the pipes need to be taken out, from the bottom, then the drain/vent taken out as well, remove the rotten wood, drill holes in the new piece with a hole saw, shove it in there and nail it down from the vertical 2x4's, then run the pipes back in. Also put that backing piece back up where it belongs.

I'm not sure where the best place is to cut the PVC. As for the copper pipe, I'd imagine it would be best to remove it by heating up the elbow that sits below the floor. When I put it back I might need to use a rubber coupler depending on where the PVC gets cut from.

Thoughts?

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/526/0000166.jpg

Gary Swart
05-16-2011, 02:34 PM
The use of a "rubber" coupler comes up on this forum frequently. First, if possible to get some flex in the line, use a regular PVC coupler. If you do have to use a clamped coupler, you need to understand that the rubber coupler is actually neoprene, is not to be used above ground. These will not prevent the pipe from moving. You must use a banded or no hub coupler. There is somewhat similar, but have a single wide band over the entire sleeve which provides the stability needed.

Briandl
05-16-2011, 02:53 PM
I actually think getting flex in the line shouldn't be too difficult, I just need to decide where to cut it.

I just thought that because I wasn't sure where those are commonly used, and I noticed one day one being used on tv on a main stack and it appeared they used it because it would have been pretty difficult to join the pipes any other way.

cacher_chick
05-16-2011, 06:52 PM
Where to cut the pipe is somewhat dependent on how you plan to take the wall apart.

It appears to be an outside wall which will be load bearing, so it's a little more involved that just pulling out a couple of studs to replace a couple feet of rotten wood.

jimbo
05-16-2011, 07:00 PM
In the picture, it does not look that rotted. Maybe you just smooth it up with some putty. A big problem I see is lack of nail plate over the drain and water pipes, leaving them vulnerable to base board nails.

Briandl
05-16-2011, 08:50 PM
I'll put some nail plates on, thanks for the heads up. I'll keep it in mind that other similar types of spots may not have nail plates (when nailing in the future).

As for how bad it is, I'm pretty sure it's badly rotted but I'll double check.

I hadn't thought too much about the fact that it's load bearing. I wasn't even thinking of taking out the 2x4's, I was planning to cut the nails between the rotted piece and the 2x4's and then pull the rotted piece out. Guess I'll keep thinking and look for any additional suggestions.

hj
05-17-2011, 05:37 AM
quote; I noticed one day one being used on tv on a main stack and it appeared they used it because it would have been pretty difficult to join the pipes any other way.

Using TV programs as references is almost as productive as asking an aisle person at one of the big box stores. ALL they are concerned about is getting the job done, NOT whether it is being done properly or not. In fact, as long as it lasts until the camera is turned off, they do not really care if it falls apart five minutes later.

ballvalve
05-17-2011, 09:55 AM
That plate is not doing anything structural for you. Dry it out and forget about it. Stop the leaks.

A chainsaw and a chisel will get rid of it in a few minutes if you really dont like it, without cutting any pipes.