toto drake leaking from floor base

I installed a drake about 3 years ago. It just starting leaking water from the base/floor when flushed. I pulled the toto up, removed the wax, and installed a new wax ring (#10). Installed the ring on the toilet and then placed it on the flange. Still leaks, I said sh**t!

Any ideas why my toto (I luv my totos) is still leaking?

Thanks in advance....

Unless the flange is "above" the floor, you will need two wax rings. You need to feel some "crush".
If you put the wax on the bowl, you have no idea if the wax seal was centered correctly. Plumbers put the wax "on the floor", and then drop the bowl down on the wax.

Also, if after setting the toilet, it rocks at all, that will break the seal. Set the toilet without wax, check it sits nice and stable without rocking, and if it does, shim it. Then reset with whatever amount of wax it takes to make a good seal (in most cases, this is a standard wax ring, but if the flange is low or recessed, it may take two or a jumbo).

thanks guys,
the wax ring I used had a plastic flange with it. Once the wax was attached to the toilet, looks like the plastic sits right in the floor flange. Wow, wouldn't think it would leak.
Should I just buy two wax rings without any plastic attached to it? How do you guys do it with the drake?
I will remove the wax and see how it sits without the wax.

Depending on the flange, the wax rings with the funnel can cause more problems than they are worth. If you didn't get any squish when you set th etoilet, it didn't make a seal. The choices are try a jumbo (thicker), or stack a couple together to get the required squish. If you measure the height of the funnel ring, you'll get an idea of how much wax you need - the wax needs to be thicker, so you can get the squish to make the seal.

I'm ready for round 2. I removed the drake and the failed wax ring. Tried the drake without the wax on the flange and no rocking. I have to run out for j bolts because the ones I have the threads don't go all the way on it and I can't tighten the bolts.
I do have another problem that I can get around. See the rusted flange on the right side. I can work the bolt in with a washer on it to secure the toilet.

How difficult is it to replace the flange? The drain pipe is PVC. If I can get by the way it is, fine. Also the drake toilet 'horn' is flush with the bottom of the toilet so I will try it with one ring on the flange and place the toilet on it.

That looks like abs with a steel ring. They make repair rings out of stainless steel specifically designed for this. They have a hinge so once you cut the old metal part off, you open it, then close it and it will lock into the slot in the existing flange. Then, you screw it down. Simple, quick, no rust if you use brass or SS screws to anchor the new ring.

Thanks guys.... All set. When I installed the drake three years ago I missed the wax horn from a previous install. It was still on maybe causing the problem. I was able to use the rusted flange, I put a washer next the the bolt head under the flange and there was enough to grab. Problem now in removing the drake a couple of times there is a lead where the tank connects to the toilet. Any one know where I can get toto replacement washers?