Shims
- Thread starter idol34
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shim
Before you shim, set the toilet bowl on the hole and check to see if it wobbles. You may not need to shim, but you should grout it when finished.
Most toilets today aren't perfectly flat on the bottom side.
I can buy small plastic shims at the hardware by me.
I like to temporally shim and then grout, before the toilet is used, so as not to start a wobble.
I like white or grey grout. Wipe it in with a wet cotton rag or use a small sponge.
Before you shim, set the toilet bowl on the hole and check to see if it wobbles. You may not need to shim, but you should grout it when finished.
Most toilets today aren't perfectly flat on the bottom side.
I can buy small plastic shims at the hardware by me.
I like to temporally shim and then grout, before the toilet is used, so as not to start a wobble.
I like white or grey grout. Wipe it in with a wet cotton rag or use a small sponge.
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DJ2
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I save and use thin vynal or plastic notebook covers and dividers. I can cut pieces to fit the need. I find that they stay in place better than the plastic beveled shims.
I put them in before installing toilet. I use the suggestion of leveling the toilet before applying wax seal. The shims can just sit on the floor after locating them and then the toilet can be carefully lowered onto them. I guess you could put a little glue or tape on them to further reduce the chance of them slipping when you place the toilet on top of them. I haven't tried that, however.
I put them in before installing toilet. I use the suggestion of leveling the toilet before applying wax seal. The shims can just sit on the floor after locating them and then the toilet can be carefully lowered onto them. I guess you could put a little glue or tape on them to further reduce the chance of them slipping when you place the toilet on top of them. I haven't tried that, however.
I use composite door shims. The taper is much more gradual and they can be cut off with a knife.
Shimming is done at the back of the bowl,
Set the toilet down without wax, and see if it needs shims,
If so, place the shims now.
Lift the toilet, set the wax on the flange and drop the toilet back down.
After the toilet is snug to the floor, trim the shims.
A last touch would be to use polyseamseal from bolt to bolt around the front of the bowl. In Seattle, we're not allowed to caulk all the way around.
I find that clear works well with wood floors and tile.
If you're in Arizona land, then hj would caulk it 360.
Coins have never worked well for me.
Nor have the plastic shims.
Shimming is done at the back of the bowl,
Set the toilet down without wax, and see if it needs shims,
If so, place the shims now.
Lift the toilet, set the wax on the flange and drop the toilet back down.
After the toilet is snug to the floor, trim the shims.
A last touch would be to use polyseamseal from bolt to bolt around the front of the bowl. In Seattle, we're not allowed to caulk all the way around.
I find that clear works well with wood floors and tile.
If you're in Arizona land, then hj would caulk it 360.
Coins have never worked well for me.
Nor have the plastic shims.
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SRdenny
Plumbing Contractor
The Sioux Chief part no. for Wedge-It is 460-10.
RRadamacher
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We used to use cedar shims but found out that they tend to soften up over time and the toilet starts to wobble. Now, we use a super soft shim called the Wobble Wedge. We like them because you can trim them with utility knife in one pass and the don't slip out even under pressure. We get them online at http://wobblewedge.com/uses/plumbing.php.
Every now and then, I'll use these to separate vibrating pipes...it make for a quick, permanent and easy fix.
Every now and then, I'll use these to separate vibrating pipes...it make for a quick, permanent and easy fix.
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I read this post on shims, and I'm having a similar issue with an uneven floor. I've used the shims, however, in order to get it level, i have to use the full shim which is about 1/4". I'm concerned with that much shim under the toilet that I won't get a good seal around the waste pipe. Is this OK? If not, any ideas? Thank you.
You may need more than one wax ring if that's the case.
Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
Ditto to cedar shims, I've used those plastic ones before and the hard ones have to be scribed and pulled back out, cut with snips and reinstalled.
The soft ones if you are not careful on linoleum you'll strike those so hard to cut them that you'll accidentally drag the blade and cut the floor. That, is not good. I've done it before and no one knows, thank caulk for that.
Wood is fine if followed with caulk; wood should last forever since that wax ring creates a positive seal to the toilet.
The soft ones if you are not careful on linoleum you'll strike those so hard to cut them that you'll accidentally drag the blade and cut the floor. That, is not good. I've done it before and no one knows, thank caulk for that.
Wood is fine if followed with caulk; wood should last forever since that wax ring creates a positive seal to the toilet.
Verdeboy
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As long as you can feel the wax squishing down when you sit or push down on the bowl, you should be fine using the whole shim. As Rugged said, You should also caulk around the base afterward, which will also help to keep the toilet from rocking.
Markts30
Commercial Plumber
The soft shims sound great, but I tend to like to use roofing/flashing lead...
I cut 1" strips off 4# lead sheets and just fold and hammer flat to the thickness I want...
Cuts easy with a knife or snips and will not rot away...
Also it is soft enough not to cause a "hard point" for the china to chip on....
I cut 1" strips off 4# lead sheets and just fold and hammer flat to the thickness I want...
Cuts easy with a knife or snips and will not rot away...
Also it is soft enough not to cause a "hard point" for the china to chip on....
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