Toilet Flange Problems - Part Deux

Users who are viewing this thread

GWS

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Welland, Ontario Canada
Here is my original post:
Can someone please help! I am in the process of renovating a basement bathroom. After ripping out a plywood sub floor I am noticing the toilet flange is really high. The flange is abs and the inside diameter is 3 inches. It is set in concrete with the flange glued on the outside. I put down a piece of tile to measure the height and the top of the flange is 1 1/8" above the tile! What should the proper flange height be after the tile is down? I want to do this right...what are my options?

Fast forward:
I hired a plumber who chipped out the concrete, cut the existing flange off, lowered the waste pipe and glued on a new flange.The new flange height is 1/4" above the freshly tiled floor. The flange is level but the floor is not as it slopes toward a basement drain. So even though rear of the flange is 1/4" off the floor the front part is still more like 3/8" + off the floor. When test fitting my toilet the bowl needs to be shimmed 1/2" in the front to be level. That seems like a lot..and doesn't look too good. After much research I found these options. What do you guys think? Shims only (Johnny Shims brand) and caulking the gap.

or this method I copied and pasted from some website

Steps for leveling a toilet with more than a ¼ inch gap

1. Make a pencil mark on the floor around the base of the toilet.
2. Place plastic shims about 1/8 inch from the pencil line.
3. Mix up a small batch of epoxy mortar. Place a continuous mound of epoxy mortar between the outside of the closet flange and inside of the pencil line, being careful not to disturb the shims.
4. Place a layer of wax paper over the mortar, without covering the closet flange, and lower the toilet into place. Anchor the toilet.
5. The wax ring should be seated on the closet flange and the excess mortar should ooze out around the base of the toilet.
6. Wring out a damp cloth to remove the excess mortar, leaving a slight recess at the joint.
7. When the mortar is set, use a utility knife with a sharp blade to trim the excess wax paper.
8. Install a bead of latex caulk over the mortar at the joint between the bottom of the toilet and the floor.

Using the wax paper prevents the china at the underside of the toilet from taking the moisture out of the mortar. This will prevent your toilet and tile floor from sealing. This is important if you would need to remove the toilet later on.

or this idea
Shims and expanding spay foam (never heard this one before).

or lastly something I saw surfing the web for answers.... a BIG FOOT II TOILET FLOOR GASKET which is a Thick, compliant, self-shimming, white rubber gasket installs between the toilet and the floor. Provides a complete seal and eliminates toilet movement and wobbling.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!
Messages
5,458
Reaction score
213
Points
63
Location
Land of Cheese
The flange must be solidly screwed down to the top of the finished floor. I wouldn't go any further until this can be done, even if means replacing the flange again.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks