Does a new setup need a relief valve?

Got a new Goulds HPro v100s (32g) to replace a Goulds v60 (20g). I ended up getting all the little goodies as well except relief valve, my old setup didn't have one either. Also, do you all use pipe dope and teflon tape on all threads? Thanks...

YES, you do need a relief valve. The best place to put it is at the well head itself.
If its underground you can place it anywhere before the tank and pressure switch.

I've seen more well systems without a relief valve than with one. I'm not sure that I understand the need for one.

All water heaters have a relief valve which would prevent damage to plumbing systems if the pump didn't cut out. Not saying I'm right but if someone can expand on the thinking behind it, i'm listening. I have a feeling this is a local code issue.

cacher_chick said:

I've seen more well systems without a relief valve than with one. I'm not sure that I understand the need for one.

All water heaters have a relief valve which would prevent damage to plumbing systems if the pump didn't cut out. Not saying I'm right but if someone can expand on the thinking behind it, i'm listening. I have a feeling this is a local code issue.

Click to expand...

If the pressure switch gets stuck on and the pump can build enough pressure to damage the tank & plumbing, the relief valve will put the resulting mess in a predictable place. I have also seen them pop open on pressure tanks have a bladder-confining internal dome and an inadequate air charges.

I'm making up the Tee & see 2 setups?
1-water in-check valve then gauge & relief valve, then switch and drain then feed
2-water in-check valve then switch & drain, then gauge & relief valve? does it matter what "side" of the tank Tee these components are assembled? you know what I mean....
what about teflon tape & pipe sealer for the threads?

The sequence of the fittings that you discussed does not matter. A few wraps of teflon tape and some pipe dope should do the job.

Pressure relief valves on water heaters are set at about 150 PSI. That 10GS05 pump will only build about 90 PSI max. You need a relief valve on the pump set at about 75 PSI. This is not to protect your plumbing, but to protect your pump. When your pressure switch points melt together from excessive cycling, the pump won’t be able to shut off at 60 as it should. The pressure relief valve will dump enough water to keep the pump from melting down, before you figure out what is going on. You also need to plumb the discharge of this PRV to a place you can see. It is your high-pressure alarm. When you see water coming out of the discharge of the PRV, you will know the scenario I described above has happened, and the PRV has just saved your pump.

Maybe I just said it wrong. I just meant that because this particular pump maxes out at 90 PSI, a 75 PSI pressure relief is more for protecting the pump than protecting the plumbing. Many pumps can build much more than 75 PSI, so a PRV certainly helps protect the plumbing.

Maybe I missed this in reading, but where do they say it is a 10gs05 pump. If it's bigger that could be a potential problem.

I think they were refering to the pump I use...