What's the best washer shut-off value to buy?

I've got slightly leaking hot and cold washing machine shut-off values that I want to replace. It's just a tiny leak where the valve stem goes into the packing nut. I guess I could just replace the packing, but I wondered if I should just go ahead and replace them with something better for the long term.

I've got copper lines going into the existing valves if that makes any difference, but I could go under the house and cut them at the 90 and replace the portion up to the valve with PVC if that would be better.

What is the most reliable long-term valve that I should consider? Thanks.

You can't use PVC indoors. Stay with copper. Get a valve that has a single lever to shut both hot and cold off. I'm not sure of brands, but any decent plumbing shop will have them.

Asking for a "good" washing machine valve is an exercise in futility, because there is NO such thing. I use 1/4 turn valves, but only use the ones with the valves which are removable from the shank so I do not have to open the wall to replace them.

The Chicago angle valves (442) with pipe to hose adapters in them have been working at my mother's house since 1948 without any repair other than snugging the packing nut a hair every decade or so. Certainly not the way the way most people go, but it has made a believer out of me.

Chicago angle valves are NOT hose faucets, and if you were to go that route, there are many angle valves which would work just as good, if not better. One reason there is no impetus to making a "good" hose valve is that most of them are turned on when the washing machine is installed, and then turned off when it is removed or serviced a decade or so later.

HJ, I know Chicago angle valves (1/2"FIP X 1/2"FIP) are not hose valves. That is why I mentioned it had a pipe to hose adapter screwed in it (I think you missed that part). Nobody but me would do it that way anyhow, and probably only in my own house.

With copper coming into the box, you can replace with a compression stop.
Dahl makes a good 1/4 turn valve, 611-33-04



Here is the job finished, with new Dahl valves.



The job halfway done with the old Arrowhead Brass valve on the right. The packing nut was leaking on the hot side, so I pulled that one first, and then changed out the cold side too.
It helps to have a sleeve pull on hand.



By the way, the old Arrowhead compression was an old thread, not matching up at all with the new compression stops. The nut and sleeve needed to be removed for the new stops to be installed.

those standard arrowhead brass might not be 100 year but if they are packing nut they repack good easy job might get you 5 more years seem to service ok . every one loves those cheap plastic boxes looks so much cleanner than a hose bib coming out the wall with an escutcheon. Its just terrible to see a hose bib in front of a washer and be able to see a leak as opposed to putting them outa sight outa mind until there is a leak and water damage.
Satin hose bib exposed replaceable good enough for me. but I mostly never bring it up , why rock the boat just put the plastic box in with whatever valves

I'd go with something like those Dahl valves.

Are the existing ones threaded on, soldered on, or a compression fitting? If you have enough copper sticking out, you could just cut off what's there and put on any one of the three. A compression valve would be the easiest as you'd only need a hack saw or pipe cutter to get the old ones off. You might need a compression ring puller, though. It would be messier if they were soldered on, as the plastic box would likely melt unless you could do some further dismantling to isolate it.