Toilet rough-in questions

[retskcir]

I have no experience in this area and am looking around for info. I'm remodeling a laundry room on the first floor and installing a bathroom directly over it on the second floor. I don't want to finish the bathroom now, just do the rough in. I have 7" of clearance under the floor for the bathroom plumbing and the floor is going to be about 1.5" thick finished. The preliminary questions are.

1. Do I have enough room under the floor for the toilet plumbing?
2. Will a 45 degree closet flange help?
3. If the flange should sit on top of the finished floor and I don't want to install the floor now how do I mount the flange?
4. What type of Tee is required?
5. Can I connect a shower, a toilet, and a sink (from the bath) and a sink and a washer (from the laundry room) to the same 3" drain?

Thanks all for the help.

[Lakee911]

1. Do I have enough room under the floor for the toilet plumbing?.
I don't see why you don't. 7+1.5 for a three inch drain should be sufficient.

3. If the flange should sit on top of the finished floor and I don't want to install the floor now how do I mount the flange?
You can leave it out and just plug the hole until the finished floor comes in. If you're doing PVC and glue it in and decide on a change height of the floor or different material and it's already in it would need to be moved.

4. What type of Tee is required?
Saitary Tee

5. Can I connect a shower, a toilet, and a sink (from the bath) and a sink and a washer (from the laundry room) to the same 3" drain?
I don't think it would be a problem as long as it is vented properly, but someone else can better answer whether too many units are draining into a 3" pipe.

As others say, 'My unprofessional opinion'
Jason

[Terry]

http://terrylove.com/images/dwv_b2.jpg
You can put the bathroom into one 3" stack.
Each fixture will need to be vented. Santee work fine here.
the tub would be a 2x1.5x1.5 tee
toilet, 3x2x3 tee
lav 1.5x1.5x1.5

7" will be tight, however if needed, you could also put a soffit in.
I would think a 90 would be better, remember that the rough-in for the toilet is 12" away from the "finished" wall.

The vent for the washer will need to tye back in on the second floor.

[retskcir]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the help. A standard closet flange with a 3" 90 going to a santee fits fine.

Now for the shower. A 2" p-trap won't fit. Can I reduce from 2" to 1 1/2" with no problems, or better still can I put the trap down stream where I have more room?

Thanks.

[Terry]

No.
The p-trap for the shower should be 2".
I would find a way to drop the ceiling some.
There are many ways that can be done so that it still looks right.

Many of the soffited dining rooms we see now, started off hiding heating ducts and plumbing runs.

Run the soffit along a wall, or wrap the room with it, and nobody will know it's not for style.

[retskcir]

Ok, so I can raise the floor or lower the ceiling, no problem there. Is there a distance that the trap has to be from the drain. Could I put the trap in the crawl space?

[Terry]

If the shower is on the second floor, the p-trap must be too.

You can't put a p-trap in the crawspace for fixtures on the second floor.

If the tailpiece on the shower drain is too long, it will defeat the purpose of the trap, allowing the water to drain right through without maintaining a trap seal.

[retskcir]

I'm I doing something wrong?

Sorry the attached pic definition is so low.

It's a copy from AutoCAD. If anyone has AutoCAD and would like a closer look I would be happy to email the file to you.

The small white blocks are pipe sizes, The fixtures top left to right are shower 2", toilet 3", Lav 1 1/2" and bottom left to right are laundry sink 1 1/2" and Washer 2".

Thanks All.

[hj]

The toilet flowing past the washer opening is a No-No, unless you install a vent between the trap and the tee.