Well Jet Pump Low Water Pressure

I am not able to get over about 20 – 25 psi from my shallow well pump, that used to be set to kick off at 40, and did work fairly good other than some limited suction for several years. When I shut the pump off it holds pressure. I had recently installed a new sand point going below the bottom of my shallow seasonal cottage well, because I had been getting extreme flex hose collapsing and suction problems before the pump. I tried to get the old sand point out from below the bottom of the well to clean it, but unfortunately it snapped at the threads. Anyway, I tried to prime the pump after the installation but wasn’t able to get it also past 20-25 psi pressure. I was told to install a check valve before the pump, which I then did, but I’ve still got this same low pressure problem. I noticed that the motor side of the GSW ½ HP pump had 2 cracks running diagonally a few inches on either side of the top flange. When I tried to order a new housing I was told by Flotec, who makes these now, to maybe just buy a new pump, since the housing also can’t be bought separately without the motor. Anyway, do you think changing the whole pump will fix my problem? Is there any point trying to take the housing off the motor and welding the cracks, also so I don’t need to do any repiping? When I drove the sand point into the bottom of the well I didn’t seen anything in the instructions to say I should also put a foot valve in…isn’t a foot valve just built into all sand points? Before I buy a new pump could it be that the surge tank is the problem? Note also, when I was priming I couldn’t understand where all the several pails of priming water was going…into the surge tank I guess. Should I maybe put another check valve at the top of the vertical pipe in the well from the sand point to make more sure the pump’s not sucking air before going horizontally to the pump house? Fortunately, I’ve drained everything now for winter so I have several months to come up with a solution.

Start with a new pump that doesn't have a crack in it. Then if you don't get the flow and pressure you need, we start looking at other things.

Valveman said it right, cracks in a pump anywhere isn't good. Sandpoints don't come with check valves. You would usually install a check valve at the top of the well. Maximum of 20 psi tells me that there's some trash in the nozzle of the jet assembly. Buy a Sta-Rite; Goulds or any other reputable pump but stay away from cheaper made big box store pumps because they are thow away pumps, when they break, throw them away and buy another. One reason your pump wouldn't prime is either there is no check valve in the suction line or the one in it is stuck open. No don't put a check valve in the outlet line!

Sounds like I need to buy a new & better pump & reconnect everything. I wonder if I need to also put another check valve at the top of the vertical before the elbow in the well, which goes to the pumphouse? Although I already have a cv before the pump, perhaps when the pump turns on there is not enough water in the actual line to get the prime up? That would be mean 2 cvs in the inlet line, but because I don't have a foot valve above the sand point would you recommend that?

One good check valve is all you need. Extra check valves just cause more restriction on the suction side of the pump.

valveman said:

One good check valve is all you need. Extra check valves just cause more restriction on the suction side of the pump.

Click to expand...

OK, with the change of seasons I was able to get a good price on a replacement jet pump, even a bit higher in HP from 1/2 to 3/4. Now comes the interesting part in trying to remove the galvanized pipe into and out of the old pump first, before rmoving it, for which I see there is a separate thread.,,using either a pipe cutter, sawzall, torch, hacksaw(s), elbow grease, some big wrenches, or all of these.